Loose nipple washer in rim
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Loose nipple washer in rim
I built myself a set of wheels that are a little deep (Kinlin XC279 rims, so 27 mm deep). When I did so, I apparently lost a nipple washer in the rim that I didn't notice. At least that's the only explanation for the rattle I get when I shake the wheel, but there's no noise while riding it (I assume because centripetal force keeps it out against the wall).
2 questions:
1. Will leaving it in there cause any problems (other than driving me slowly insane)?
2. Since I've already taped the rim (and put 50-75 miles on it), is there any way of getting it out (without untaping the rim) other than taking the tube out and shaking and turning and hoping it comes out the valve hole?
2 questions:
1. Will leaving it in there cause any problems (other than driving me slowly insane)?
2. Since I've already taped the rim (and put 50-75 miles on it), is there any way of getting it out (without untaping the rim) other than taking the tube out and shaking and turning and hoping it comes out the valve hole?
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You'll need a magnet, a stick of gum, and a stethoscope.
Remove the tire and inner tube.
Start chewing gum.
Use the stethoscope to locate the washer.
Attach the washer to the magnet through the rim.
"Pull" the washer to the rim "wall" and then along to the valve hole.
Guide the washer to the valve hole and let it fall out.
Keep enjoying the gum. Haha
Remove the tire and inner tube.
Start chewing gum.
Use the stethoscope to locate the washer.
Attach the washer to the magnet through the rim.
"Pull" the washer to the rim "wall" and then along to the valve hole.
Guide the washer to the valve hole and let it fall out.
Keep enjoying the gum. Haha
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Huh, didn't occur to me that the magnet would be steel, but I guess you're right. I do have a stack of rare earth magnets for spedometers. I guess the next time I replace the inner tube I'll try that (assuming I remember).
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Having lost more then a few nipples and washers in rims over the years I share your frustration. Good chance the loose item will rattle during riding. I have usually done the shimmy dance to remove the object. Sometimes the shaking takes only a few moments, sometimes a lot longer. Andy.
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Either shake the extra washer out if it bothers you, or leave it there if it doesn't.
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It was supposed to be stainless. I guess I didn't realize that stainless wasn't magnetic. So far it doesn't really bother me except that it sounds like a hulu hoop when I carry it around and/or shake it. I'd like to have it out, but, as long as having it in there isn't going to lead to the rim wearing out because it's bouncing around in there damaging things, I'm not in a rush. I lost a couple washers when building the wheel, but I thought I'd gotten them all out. I guess I missed one as shaking them out was a challenge (plus they were probably a little sticky from the grease I was using on the nipples). Next time I build a wheelset (if I choose to use washers and I'm not sure they provide any added value), I'll have to find a better way of getting them in there without losing them.
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1- lace wheels laying flat. Feeding nipples horizontally reduces the chances of dropping them into the rim. This isn't always easy, and some people never get used to it, so feel free to pass.
2- use grease to stick the washers to the nipples before feeding them onto the spokes.
3- slow, but bulletproof --- push an icepick out through the rim and stick the washered nipple onto it, push the nipple into the rim with the screwdriver, pushing the icepick before it. Once the nipple is through the rim hld it in place with your screwdriver while you feed the spoke on and spin it on a few turns. This is a bit slow, but not so bad once you get the rhythm down. IMO it's almost a necessity when building super deep rims.
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#9
don't try this at home.
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That rattling noise when I roll the bike would bug me.
To catch a loose nipple, I've used a small blob of caulk on a thin screwdriver blade in the valve hole. Tilt and shake until it sticks to the caulk.
The toothpaste sized tubes of clear latex caulk are handy to have around the house. They seem to last much longer than the silicone ones after opening. I've used it to plug an unused frame hole, and other uses.
To catch a loose nipple, I've used a small blob of caulk on a thin screwdriver blade in the valve hole. Tilt and shake until it sticks to the caulk.
The toothpaste sized tubes of clear latex caulk are handy to have around the house. They seem to last much longer than the silicone ones after opening. I've used it to plug an unused frame hole, and other uses.
Last edited by rm -rf; 06-15-15 at 08:42 AM.
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I'm not sure I agree with the above. Galvanized steel nipple washers are magnetic and have been used for years. They are the backbone of the nipple washer industry. JK
But... https://bfy.tw/LX3
But... https://bfy.tw/LX3
Last edited by cale; 06-15-15 at 09:05 AM. Reason: messin' around
#11
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Do many of you use nipple washers for wheel builds?
I'll always grease the holes in the rim before inserting a nipple, but have never used nipple washers for a build. Upon reflection, I suppose I might consider it, building a wheel with both alloy rims and nipples, but because of corrosion issues in our area, I rarely, if ever, do that combo.
Brass nipples with alloy rim (no eyelets) -- good candidate for nipple washers, or overkill?
I prefer to spec eyeletted rims for any of my own builds and strongly recommend it to customers who ask. Stainless eyeletted rims with brass nipples -- any sense using nipple washers in such a combo or extreme overkill in that situation?
Is it a carbon rim thing? Would they be recommended when building up a set of Ghisallo wood-rimmed wheels?
I'll always grease the holes in the rim before inserting a nipple, but have never used nipple washers for a build. Upon reflection, I suppose I might consider it, building a wheel with both alloy rims and nipples, but because of corrosion issues in our area, I rarely, if ever, do that combo.
Brass nipples with alloy rim (no eyelets) -- good candidate for nipple washers, or overkill?
I prefer to spec eyeletted rims for any of my own builds and strongly recommend it to customers who ask. Stainless eyeletted rims with brass nipples -- any sense using nipple washers in such a combo or extreme overkill in that situation?
Is it a carbon rim thing? Would they be recommended when building up a set of Ghisallo wood-rimmed wheels?
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In my case they weren't eyeletted rims (hadn't ever done that before), I'm a bigger guy (6'2, up and down but around 210-ish at the moment, down from 240 and hoping to get going downward again), the roads around here aren't that great, and I have a tendency to mash, so I wanted to make the rims as strong as possible. Don't know if I'd do it again in the future, but, if I do, FB's approach with the ice pick sounds like it'd save a lot of cursing. I tried doing it more or less sideways, but I kept bumping the nipples into things (I'd greased the nipples and tried to use that to keep the washers - that also had a little grease on them - on). That and I'd tried two new nipple drivers (one to attach to my drill and one that was manual), and neither was very good about grasping the nipples, so I lost a couple of those too. All in all, it was a very frustrating wheel build - also my first with Sapim Lasers, so I had a bit of wind up issues - so my next wheelset is going to use nice box section eyeletted Sun CR 18s and the less drastically butted Sapim Race spokes and no washers - always with brass nipples.
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