Any way I can pair a triple chainrings on with 11 speed cassette?
#1
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Any way to pair triple chainrings with 11 speed cassette?
https://www.scott-sports.com/global/...r-20-cd22-l56/
Here is the bike in question ^^^
The drivetrain is completely stock at the moment.
Do you think there is any way I could have a LBS put a triple chain ring with a low gear of 30-ish on? I would really like some super easy climbing gears for a couple 'fondo' rides this year and even 50/34, 11-32 is a bit much for me right now. I would like to be able to spin 90+ even at very low speeds.
Any help appreciated,
Thanks!
Here is the bike in question ^^^
The drivetrain is completely stock at the moment.
Do you think there is any way I could have a LBS put a triple chain ring with a low gear of 30-ish on? I would really like some super easy climbing gears for a couple 'fondo' rides this year and even 50/34, 11-32 is a bit much for me right now. I would like to be able to spin 90+ even at very low speeds.
Any help appreciated,
Thanks!
#2
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Unless you drop down to 10 speed, there are no triple options currently available for Shimano 11 speed (there is a Campagnolo triple 11 speed options with a 30t smallest chainring).
If you want a triple, you need to drop down to 10 speed, and look at say the new 4700 Tiagra (would be 4703 for triple) (out in a few weeks)
If you want a triple, you need to drop down to 10 speed, and look at say the new 4700 Tiagra (would be 4703 for triple) (out in a few weeks)
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Pedaling at 90 RPM in a 30T/32 combination to go 6.6 MPH sounds like a waste of effort. I'd rather walk.
#4
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Anybody tried out a 11 speed shimano mtb cassette on a roadie setup yet? If so what rear derailleur would you go with to get the pull ratios right? That would certainly get you some climbing gears.
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#6
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You could probably run a 105/5700 triple crank & left shifter with a 5800 rear & right shifter. The RD probably won't be able to fully take up the chain, so you'd have to be careful to avoid small-small combinations.
Your other option is probably a 10-speed mountain crankset like 24/38, but that's going to cost you a lot of top end. With Hollowtech II cranksets, it should be simple to swap the cranks as needed. You will need to adjust the FD height though.
Your other option is probably a 10-speed mountain crankset like 24/38, but that's going to cost you a lot of top end. With Hollowtech II cranksets, it should be simple to swap the cranks as needed. You will need to adjust the FD height though.
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Feasible, but expensive & ergonomically pretty horrible way to do it. Running a different feel left & right hand shifters will feel off, and the ergonomics of the 5700 are poor vs the 5800, you also loose the benefits of the new design and much better shifting FD that the 5800 series has.
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https://www.scott-sports.com/global/...r-20-cd22-l56/
Here is the bike in question ^^^
The drivetrain is completely stock at the moment.
Do you think there is any way I could have a LBS put a triple chain ring with a low gear of 30-ish on? I would really like some super easy climbing gears for a couple 'fondo' rides this year and even 50/34, 11-32 is a bit much for me right now. I would like to be able to spin 90+ even at very low speeds.
Any help appreciated,
Thanks!
Here is the bike in question ^^^
The drivetrain is completely stock at the moment.
Do you think there is any way I could have a LBS put a triple chain ring with a low gear of 30-ish on? I would really like some super easy climbing gears for a couple 'fondo' rides this year and even 50/34, 11-32 is a bit much for me right now. I would like to be able to spin 90+ even at very low speeds.
Any help appreciated,
Thanks!
One of the local riders has a mountain bike rear derailleur and what I think is a 34 or 36 big cog. It's probably 10-speed, not 11. It works great for her.
That really wide range cassette would be really annoying to me on less extreme grades. I don't like big jumps between shifts, because I like to keep my cadence between 90 and 100. I have an 11-28 11-speed and even that jumps from 97-99 down to 86-87 on certain shifts--too much.
But on a big ride with extreme grades, I'd swap it in.
~~~~~~~~~~~~
I'm thinking about a second bike with Campagnolo 30-39-52 and either 12-25 or 12-29 11-speed. It's 30-29 is a couple of shifts lower than a 34-28. The main advantage is very close gears in the middle chainring in the whole range of 10-22 mph. And a good set of climbing gears in the small chainring for anything except the most extreme grades.
And 11-speed Campagnolo can use Shimano 11 speed wheels with the Shimano or Sram cassettes, since the cog spacing is very similar.
Last edited by rm -rf; 06-22-15 at 07:00 AM.
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Feasible, but expensive & ergonomically pretty horrible way to do it. Running a different feel left & right hand shifters will feel off, and the ergonomics of the 5700 are poor vs the 5800, you also loose the benefits of the new design and much better shifting FD that the 5800 series has.
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You could get a friction bar end shifter for the left to handle the triple. That's a bit of a drag as you need to buy a complete set but bar end shifters cost less than brifters. You might be able to find one used if you ask around and save some money. Friction option works really well for the front 3 chainrings. Nashbar is blowing out 10 speed bar end shifters for less than $50, Shimano Dura-Ace 7900 10-Speed Bar End Shifters. Heck you could just run 10 speed and call it a day if you want. Those brifters are worth some money; you could sell them. Or go with a bar end on the left and a brifter on the right.
Also you're not stuck with shimano's 30 tooth inner. The road triple is 130/74 bcd, I believe, which in theory would let you drop as low as 24 on the inside. You might be able to set this up with a 24 tooth inner if your front derailleur can handle it; a 26 tooth inner should work.
A 26 running on a 32 in the rear will help get you up those fine mountains in northern Idaho. That has to be some of the finest bike riding I have seen anywhere.
Also you're not stuck with shimano's 30 tooth inner. The road triple is 130/74 bcd, I believe, which in theory would let you drop as low as 24 on the inside. You might be able to set this up with a 24 tooth inner if your front derailleur can handle it; a 26 tooth inner should work.
A 26 running on a 32 in the rear will help get you up those fine mountains in northern Idaho. That has to be some of the finest bike riding I have seen anywhere.
Last edited by bikemig; 06-22-15 at 07:16 AM.
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For feeling different, if you have different shaped shifters in each hand, it is noticable, if you don;t mind that great, but it can be distracting.
For the shifting, the 58/6800 design FD has a much nicer/smoother feel than the previous generations ever did.
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Agree. But maybe the OP hasn't considered that less effort would be expended walking. Of course, it is only an opinion. But loaded touring bikes are heavy to push and mountain bikes are designed to manage very steep grades neither is typically a issue for road cycling.
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It helps keep you in rhythm and it is somewhat psychologically self-defeating to have to walk. There are pay-offs to staying on the bike. Plus you have no idea what kind of shape the OP's knees are in. I know I baby mine a lot more than I used to when climbing.
#17
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you buy a whole new crankset BB shifter , and then question why you went for 11..
Last edited by fietsbob; 06-22-15 at 09:40 AM.
#18
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Point accepted
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I don't know the route or terrain. A lot of well-planned courses have a "steep" or two. Tough sections that might test even a seasoned athlete. But I'm not a seasoned anything so I'd expect to give it my best effort, use a reasonable amount of energy, and make certain that I finish the ride.
Another poster mentioned the 12% difference between 30T and 34T chainrings, I generally considered gearing changes greater than 10% to be significant and noticeably beneficial. This is on the border. IMHO, the modification complexity and costs outweigh the benefits.
Another poster mentioned the 12% difference between 30T and 34T chainrings, I generally considered gearing changes greater than 10% to be significant and noticeably beneficial. This is on the border. IMHO, the modification complexity and costs outweigh the benefits.
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Psychology? That's a big topic. Agreed, both ways. You want to go into a "contest" prepared to finish it and you want to have a plan for managing the difficult sections. I try not to punish myself for walking. I'm not a big walker, mind you, though I have walked with others and not been too disappointed. It is, as you suggest, very subjective.
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https://www.scott-sports.com/global/...r-20-cd22-l56/
Here is the bike in question ^^^
The drivetrain is completely stock at the moment.
Do you think there is any way I could have a LBS put a triple chain ring with a low gear of 30-ish on? I would really like some super easy climbing gears for a couple 'fondo' rides this year and even 50/34, 11-32 is a bit much for me right now. I would like to be able to spin 90+ even at very low speeds.
Any help appreciated,
Thanks!
Here is the bike in question ^^^
The drivetrain is completely stock at the moment.
Do you think there is any way I could have a LBS put a triple chain ring with a low gear of 30-ish on? I would really like some super easy climbing gears for a couple 'fondo' rides this year and even 50/34, 11-32 is a bit much for me right now. I would like to be able to spin 90+ even at very low speeds.
Any help appreciated,
Thanks!
Edit: Here's the output of sheldon's chart comparing a 34/32 with a 30/29. It's almost the same ratio, far less than one shift:
34 30
[TABLE]
[TR]
[TD][TABLE]
[TR]
[TH]2.1[/TH]
[TH]1.8[/TH]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TH]2.3[/TH]
[TH]2.0
[/TH]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
If you really need that .1 supposedly shimano derailleurs are pretty conservatively rated, you could try to find a 33t cog somewhere and put it on instead of the 32. If you don't want a wide spread you could always try to find a cassette starting from 12 (or even more) teeth. If you like a high tempo how often do you push 50/11?
Also, I think this solution is more elegant (and cheaper) than the others
Last edited by guitarplayerone; 06-22-15 at 09:57 AM.
#22
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A rear mt cassette will go to 36 or higher.
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https://www.sram.com/sram/road/produ...11-36-cassette maybe with a longer b-tension screw you could make this work on your stock setup.
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https://www.scott-sports.com/global/...r-20-cd22-l56/
Here is the bike in question ^^^
The drivetrain is completely stock at the moment.
Do you think there is any way I could have a LBS put a triple chain ring with a low gear of 30-ish on? I would really like some super easy climbing gears for a couple 'fondo' rides this year and even 50/34, 11-32 is a bit much for me right now. I would like to be able to spin 90+ even at very low speeds.
Any help appreciated,
Thanks!
Here is the bike in question ^^^
The drivetrain is completely stock at the moment.
Do you think there is any way I could have a LBS put a triple chain ring with a low gear of 30-ish on? I would really like some super easy climbing gears for a couple 'fondo' rides this year and even 50/34, 11-32 is a bit much for me right now. I would like to be able to spin 90+ even at very low speeds.
Any help appreciated,
Thanks!
#25
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+1. While it wouldn't be my choice, I've ridden with two people this brevet season who use a 12-36T cassette with their 50/34T compact and love it.
@cale, if the OP wanted to walk hills, they'd be asking about it on www.walkforums.net, doncha think?
@cale, if the OP wanted to walk hills, they'd be asking about it on www.walkforums.net, doncha think?