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Any way I can pair a triple chainrings on with 11 speed cassette?

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Any way I can pair a triple chainrings on with 11 speed cassette?

Old 06-21-15, 10:21 PM
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Any way to pair triple chainrings with 11 speed cassette?

https://www.scott-sports.com/global/...r-20-cd22-l56/

Here is the bike in question ^^^

The drivetrain is completely stock at the moment.
Do you think there is any way I could have a LBS put a triple chain ring with a low gear of 30-ish on? I would really like some super easy climbing gears for a couple 'fondo' rides this year and even 50/34, 11-32 is a bit much for me right now. I would like to be able to spin 90+ even at very low speeds.

Any help appreciated,
Thanks!
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Old 06-21-15, 11:51 PM
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Unless you drop down to 10 speed, there are no triple options currently available for Shimano 11 speed (there is a Campagnolo triple 11 speed options with a 30t smallest chainring).

If you want a triple, you need to drop down to 10 speed, and look at say the new 4700 Tiagra (would be 4703 for triple) (out in a few weeks)
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Old 06-22-15, 12:15 AM
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Pedaling at 90 RPM in a 30T/32 combination to go 6.6 MPH sounds like a waste of effort. I'd rather walk.
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Old 06-22-15, 12:44 AM
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Anybody tried out a 11 speed shimano mtb cassette on a roadie setup yet? If so what rear derailleur would you go with to get the pull ratios right? That would certainly get you some climbing gears.
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Old 06-22-15, 01:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Canker
Anybody tried out a 11 speed shimano mtb cassette on a roadie setup yet? If so what rear derailleur would you go with to get the pull ratios right? That would certainly get you some climbing gears.
Have a look here for some answers Shimano XTR M9000 11-speed Component Compatibility FAQs - Useful for Cyclocross? Gravel? - Cyclocross Magazine - Cyclocross News, Races, Bikes, Photos, Videos would go with what #cale said, walking would probably be better
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Old 06-22-15, 04:06 AM
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You could probably run a 105/5700 triple crank & left shifter with a 5800 rear & right shifter. The RD probably won't be able to fully take up the chain, so you'd have to be careful to avoid small-small combinations.

Your other option is probably a 10-speed mountain crankset like 24/38, but that's going to cost you a lot of top end. With Hollowtech II cranksets, it should be simple to swap the cranks as needed. You will need to adjust the FD height though.
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Old 06-22-15, 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by gsa103
You could probably run a 105/5700 triple crank & left shifter with a 5800 rear & right shifter. The RD probably won't be able to fully take up the chain, so you'd have to be careful to avoid small-small combinations.
Feasible, but expensive & ergonomically pretty horrible way to do it. Running a different feel left & right hand shifters will feel off, and the ergonomics of the 5700 are poor vs the 5800, you also loose the benefits of the new design and much better shifting FD that the 5800 series has.
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Old 06-22-15, 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by cale
Pedaling at 90 RPM in a 30T/32 combination to go 6.6 MPH sounds like a waste of effort. I'd rather walk.
You don't mountain bike much?
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Old 06-22-15, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by E.S.
https://www.scott-sports.com/global/...r-20-cd22-l56/

Here is the bike in question ^^^

The drivetrain is completely stock at the moment.
Do you think there is any way I could have a LBS put a triple chain ring with a low gear of 30-ish on? I would really like some super easy climbing gears for a couple 'fondo' rides this year and even 50/34, 11-32 is a bit much for me right now. I would like to be able to spin 90+ even at very low speeds.

Any help appreciated,
Thanks!
A 30 tooth triple is only 12% lower than a 34 chainring. That's less than two cog shifts.

One of the local riders has a mountain bike rear derailleur and what I think is a 34 or 36 big cog. It's probably 10-speed, not 11. It works great for her.

That really wide range cassette would be really annoying to me on less extreme grades. I don't like big jumps between shifts, because I like to keep my cadence between 90 and 100. I have an 11-28 11-speed and even that jumps from 97-99 down to 86-87 on certain shifts--too much.

But on a big ride with extreme grades, I'd swap it in.

~~~~~~~~~~~~
I'm thinking about a second bike with Campagnolo 30-39-52 and either 12-25 or 12-29 11-speed. It's 30-29 is a couple of shifts lower than a 34-28. The main advantage is very close gears in the middle chainring in the whole range of 10-22 mph. And a good set of climbing gears in the small chainring for anything except the most extreme grades.

And 11-speed Campagnolo can use Shimano 11 speed wheels with the Shimano or Sram cassettes, since the cog spacing is very similar.

Last edited by rm -rf; 06-22-15 at 07:00 AM.
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Old 06-22-15, 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by jimc101
Feasible, but expensive & ergonomically pretty horrible way to do it. Running a different feel left & right hand shifters will feel off, and the ergonomics of the 5700 are poor vs the 5800, you also loose the benefits of the new design and much better shifting FD that the 5800 series has.
I think you're off base. 5700 was good and fine. 5800 offers some minor improvements. Right and left shifting are already way different. Triples usually shift much better than compact doubles because the difference between rings is less.
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Old 06-22-15, 07:13 AM
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You could get a friction bar end shifter for the left to handle the triple. That's a bit of a drag as you need to buy a complete set but bar end shifters cost less than brifters. You might be able to find one used if you ask around and save some money. Friction option works really well for the front 3 chainrings. Nashbar is blowing out 10 speed bar end shifters for less than $50, Shimano Dura-Ace 7900 10-Speed Bar End Shifters. Heck you could just run 10 speed and call it a day if you want. Those brifters are worth some money; you could sell them. Or go with a bar end on the left and a brifter on the right.


Also you're not stuck with shimano's 30 tooth inner. The road triple is 130/74 bcd, I believe, which in theory would let you drop as low as 24 on the inside. You might be able to set this up with a 24 tooth inner if your front derailleur can handle it; a 26 tooth inner should work.



A 26 running on a 32 in the rear will help get you up those fine mountains in northern Idaho. That has to be some of the finest bike riding I have seen anywhere.

Last edited by bikemig; 06-22-15 at 07:16 AM.
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Old 06-22-15, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Looigi
I think you're off base. 5700 was good and fine. 5800 offers some minor improvements. Right and left shifting are already way different.
Yes 5700 was fine, but the current 58/6800 series (they have the same hoods) are a massive improvement ergonomically.

For feeling different, if you have different shaped shifters in each hand, it is noticable, if you don;t mind that great, but it can be distracting.

For the shifting, the 58/6800 design FD has a much nicer/smoother feel than the previous generations ever did.
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Old 06-22-15, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by cale
Pedaling at 90 RPM in a 30T/32 combination to go 6.6 MPH sounds like a waste of effort. I'd rather walk.
That's your prerogative. Maybe the OP can't walk very well due to age/pain, or maybe rides a lot of hills?
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Old 06-22-15, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Looigi
You don't mountain bike much?
You don't road bike much? They call it a "road" for a reason.
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Old 06-22-15, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by migrantwing
That's your prerogative. Maybe the OP can't walk very well due to age/pain, or maybe rides a lot of hills?
Agree. But maybe the OP hasn't considered that less effort would be expended walking. Of course, it is only an opinion. But loaded touring bikes are heavy to push and mountain bikes are designed to manage very steep grades neither is typically a issue for road cycling.
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Old 06-22-15, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by cale
Pedaling at 90 RPM in a 30T/32 combination to go 6.6 MPH sounds like a waste of effort. I'd rather walk.
It helps keep you in rhythm and it is somewhat psychologically self-defeating to have to walk. There are pay-offs to staying on the bike. Plus you have no idea what kind of shape the OP's knees are in. I know I baby mine a lot more than I used to when climbing.
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Old 06-22-15, 08:09 AM
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you buy a whole new crankset BB shifter , and then question why you went for 11..

Last edited by fietsbob; 06-22-15 at 09:40 AM.
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Old 06-22-15, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by cale
Agree. But maybe the OP hasn't considered that less effort would be expended walking. Of course, it is only an opinion. But loaded touring bikes are heavy to push and mountain bikes are designed to manage very steep grades neither is typically a issue for road cycling.
Point accepted
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Old 06-22-15, 08:27 AM
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I don't know the route or terrain. A lot of well-planned courses have a "steep" or two. Tough sections that might test even a seasoned athlete. But I'm not a seasoned anything so I'd expect to give it my best effort, use a reasonable amount of energy, and make certain that I finish the ride.

Another poster mentioned the 12% difference between 30T and 34T chainrings, I generally considered gearing changes greater than 10% to be significant and noticeably beneficial. This is on the border. IMHO, the modification complexity and costs outweigh the benefits.
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Old 06-22-15, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by bikemig
It helps keep you in rhythm and it is somewhat psychologically self-defeating to have to walk. There are pay-offs to staying on the bike. Plus you have no idea what kind of shape the OP's knees are in. I know I baby mine a lot more than I used to when climbing.
Psychology? That's a big topic. Agreed, both ways. You want to go into a "contest" prepared to finish it and you want to have a plan for managing the difficult sections. I try not to punish myself for walking. I'm not a big walker, mind you, though I have walked with others and not been too disappointed. It is, as you suggest, very subjective.
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Old 06-22-15, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by E.S.
https://www.scott-sports.com/global/...r-20-cd22-l56/

Here is the bike in question ^^^

The drivetrain is completely stock at the moment.
Do you think there is any way I could have a LBS put a triple chain ring with a low gear of 30-ish on? I would really like some super easy climbing gears for a couple 'fondo' rides this year and even 50/34, 11-32 is a bit much for me right now. I would like to be able to spin 90+ even at very low speeds.

Any help appreciated,
Thanks!
According to Sheldon's gear calculator, a 34t chainring with a 32t cog will give the same gear ratio as a 30t chainring and a 28t cog. You may be able to get away with taking apart the cassette and putting on a 33 or 34 but it seems like a lot of work for not much change in gearing- other solutions seem pretty dramatic for what amounts to an extra cog.

Edit: Here's the output of sheldon's chart comparing a 34/32 with a 30/29. It's almost the same ratio, far less than one shift:
34 30
[TABLE]
[TR]
[TD][TABLE]
[TR]
[TH]2.1[/TH]
[TH]1.8[/TH]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TH]2.3[/TH]
[TH]2.0

[/TH]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
If you really need that .1 supposedly shimano derailleurs are pretty conservatively rated, you could try to find a 33t cog somewhere and put it on instead of the 32. If you don't want a wide spread you could always try to find a cassette starting from 12 (or even more) teeth. If you like a high tempo how often do you push 50/11?

Also, I think this solution is more elegant (and cheaper) than the others

Last edited by guitarplayerone; 06-22-15 at 09:57 AM.
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Old 06-22-15, 10:01 AM
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A rear mt cassette will go to 36 or higher.
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Old 06-22-15, 10:06 AM
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https://www.sram.com/sram/road/produ...11-36-cassette maybe with a longer b-tension screw you could make this work on your stock setup.
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Old 06-22-15, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by E.S.
https://www.scott-sports.com/global/...r-20-cd22-l56/

Here is the bike in question ^^^

The drivetrain is completely stock at the moment.
Do you think there is any way I could have a LBS put a triple chain ring with a low gear of 30-ish on? I would really like some super easy climbing gears for a couple 'fondo' rides this year and even 50/34, 11-32 is a bit much for me right now. I would like to be able to spin 90+ even at very low speeds.

Any help appreciated,
Thanks!
Actually the easiest solution is to get a double that can take a 46-30 chainrings. They're out there from companies like velo orange and IRD. Also sugino make a pretty radical road double (it's pricey though), Sugino OX601D Cranks Arms w/BB Cups
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Old 06-22-15, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Leebo
A rear mt cassette will go to 36 or higher.
+1. While it wouldn't be my choice, I've ridden with two people this brevet season who use a 12-36T cassette with their 50/34T compact and love it.

@cale, if the OP wanted to walk hills, they'd be asking about it on www.walkforums.net, doncha think?
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