2manybikes

I don't use a stitching tool. I do my patches on the road. I like to keep in practice. I carry tubes too. I squeeze the tube and patch together hard, they always work fine. What I have seen, with friends failed patches, is just not waiting long enough. I think it comes down to being patient. Also one needs to sand patch area carefully enough.

I don't rush when patching a tire.
I read the instructions, I wait long enough. I have left the clear foil on the patch and also taken it off. No patching failures either way. I don't use the glueless patches, I have heard lots of complaints about them.When done correctly an old school patch will last as long as the tube.

FBinNY 

I rarely patch on the road, partly because as a long time tubular user I'm used to changing and fixing later. Also, just switching tubes in the field is much faster and convenient. However, I sometimes have to patch on the road, and when I do, I stitch using the edge of my tire lever working against any handy surface.

But I agree that most cases of failed patches are either from failure to buff out the surface before applying the cement or impatience, and applying the patch before the cement has dried completely. I italicized cement because it isn't cement at all. The stuff in the tube is 1/2 of a vulcanizing preparation, the other half being on the patch. If you don't let it dry, the remaining solvent prevents proper bonding.

2manybikes

I have also discovered, when closing a partly used cement tube, put a little on the threads to seal the cap. Sometimes this will keep the cement good until the next time.
I always carry a tube or two, just in case.

melloveloyellow

After patching, I allow the patch to "cure" for at least an hour (this is why I use peel&stick patches on the road). Then, I partially inflate the tube and dunk it in water to test the patch. When I do this, the clear plastic becomes detached - it doesn't stretch!

FBinNY 

Years back a Japanese (I think) tire kit company packaged the cement in multiple use and discard pods (the same count as the patches). It was such a nice system that there was no hope of it's surviving in the marketplace.

SBinNYC

Rema patches come in several sizes. The most common in their patch kits is 25 mm wide. They also make a 16 mm size. This size is appropriate for tube diameters of 28 mm and less.

Wanderer

Get a stitcher at your local hardware store - cheap..... used to replace rubber bead on screens, on aluminum doors and such....

FBinNY 

Yes, they're cheap and handy, but is this someone would want to carry?

Once you grasp the concept of stitching you can improvise with just about anything, even at home. I know that BF people buy tools for everything, but I'm old school and avoid buying limited use tools unless they're either necessary or significant time savers, and cheap as they are, stitchers still don't make the cut.

SBinNYC

I believe the company was Bikit and they were located in England. The problem with the pods was that they dried out more quickly than a tube of vulcanizing solution.

FBinNY 

I think the Bikit was simply a relabel, possibly from another source. The Japanese kit I had in mind was decades back, and it was definitely from Japan or Taiwan (China wasn't the player it is now back then). In any case, my kits lasted for years, and I never had issues with dried pods the way you see once you open the metal tubes.

bobbyl1966

wich brand patches is good and what thinks is good to have on the bike when we ride. Like pump spare inner tubes patches tires levers which else?

mtnbke

I always left the plastic on, because I felt pulling it off pulled up the edges of the patch. Interesting that everyone is saying the instructions say to leave it. I'll have to read those instructions now. I remember Rema patches, I think I'll look for them or order some online. I've NOT been impressed with Park patches lately. I'm having a lot of failures of patches that don't hold.

I know I need to wait for the vulcanizing fluid to completely dry, but sometimes I wait until it gets tacky or changes color. In the past with Rema patches I've not waited and it held fine. I carry both a vulcanizing patch kit and instant squares with me.

For burnishing I've always used the rounded edge or the hook of a Park tire lever. I'll have to look into getting a stitching tool, I never knew about those. My local Napa has an online price of $12 something. I'll bet I can do better than that on eBay or online.

As far as the recommendation for using Acetone to remove the mold release. If you're going to follow that advice use chemical resistant gloves. Acetone can be absorbed through the skin and it damages the kidneys, and causes neurological damage. Which is interesting because every woman that does her nails typically uses Acetone to remove the polish. Still, its not a "safe" chemical and you should read the MSDS. I might try this trick with the Acetone to see if it helps. I've got chemical resistant gloves in the garage.

Wanderer

Personally, I just pick up a round rock, and a larger round or flat rock, and roll the round one on the patch, to stitch it down. I use the larger rock as the anvil.