terminatorsd

So she gave me a Trek alpha Aluminum 56cm. I want to use it as my daily city commuter.

I took it to the LBS and they said my fork is cracked and proceeded to show me $200-$300 forks.

I don't want to sound cheap...but I was hoping to find a decent fork for $70-$150 and could install it myself.

So I was hoping for a little bit advice on picking a fork? I currently ride a Lemond full carbon fiber, so I considered a carbon fiber fork...but for a city commuter...I don't know if it's necessary.

HillRider

What is the steerer diameter and is it threaded or threadless? Nashbar sells replacement forks for well within your budget but most are 1-1/8" and threadless although they do list a 1" threaded fork. Here is a link to their listings so pick one you like:
Mountain Bike Forks | Road Bike Forks | Bike Nashbar

sch

another source for inexpensive forks: Bicycle Forks and Front Suspension - AEBike.com

Maybe too many as they list 1100 forks, not all in stock of course. But you need to know the fork
type as per hillrider. Threaded forks have to be fitted closely to the headtube length and are not
easily shortened, at least by very much. Threadless can be shortened and are generally sold overlength with that in mind.
It is possible, to use threadless on a formerly threaded bike. For a commuter I would stick to steel forks, but
since you are in San Diego an inexpensive CF fork with metal steerer would do. I found a threaded CF for my
Teledyne at Nashbar for $120 perhaps 10 yrs ago.

terminatorsd

Thanks for the response guys. It's 1 1/8 threadless. A lot of the nashbara have longer steerers, its making me want to just get another Trek with the 252-4 steerer neck so I don't mess with cutting them.

The rear wheel is very out of true and found the front is a different wheel. Can I use different rims? As long as they're true. Going to change the seat to something more comfortable vs. The bontrager.

Deontologist

Sure you can mix and match rims, no problem. By more comfortable do you mean more padded?

Also you can just get your LBS to cut the fork for you. Should cost less than 30 bucks ... mine did it for about 20. Or you can just get a cutting guide (about 5 bucks from Nashbar) and get a saw from your local hardware store and have a go at it. Not really that difficult.

reshp1

Go to craigslist and find a bike flipper (they're the one's with dozens of listings). Chances are very good that they have what you're looking for just laying a pile of parts they've accumulated along the way.

The hardest part of the install will be removing the crown race from your old fork and installing it on the new one. Other than that, it's very straight forward. You can usually remove with a large flat head screwdriver and a hammer, and install with a length of PVC pipe that's the right diameter to just slip over the steer tube. Place the pipe on the ground, put the crown race on the steerer and the steerer into the tube. Grab the fork legs and hammer the fork against the pipe (which is braced by the ground).

EDIT: you might need to cut down the steer tube too. I've used 2 sacrificial headset spacers clamped between two stems to do the job on aluminum and carbon forks. Steel ones I leave to the shop, not worth the work, lol.

terminatorsd

I mean, I know I am capable of cutting, but what about the part that screws in the stem...how do I move that around?

Here are some pics of my sister's charity.

I also included the photo of inside the steerer...that's what makes me worry about cutting it.

As for the saddle...yeah...it's the same one I ride with, but I have the nice cushion when I go on rides.

I also wanted to mention normally I ride a 07 buenos aires lemond carbon fiber, although it's a 58...so hopefully the 56 will be good enough for shorter commutes (under 10 miles). I just get worrired chaining up my buenos aires. FYI I am 6'1 240-250 so a little bit worried about the 56 but just want a decent bike for around town.

SJX426 

No one mentioned the fork off set. Most road bikes these days have between 40 and 44 cm offset. My old 84 Trek 760 has 38, more of a track off set. Get the right one.

The "Star" nut in the steerer cannot be removed, unless the tube is the same diameter all the way out the fork crown. New one is needed for the new fork if it doesn't have one. Put it in after cutting the tube to length. It doesn't need to be very far in the tube, the screw needs to engage it, after all! That is how you adjust the HS.

RoadGuy

What makes you think the fork is bent? Isn't that a carbon fork? Carbon forks don't really bend, they break. Is the fork aluminum? Can you see that it's definitely bent? If so, it should be replaced. A good place to look would be eBay for an used original fork that came off a similar bike. Another place you could look is Craigslist, but there less chance that you will come across the identical fork there.

A used threadless fork will have the starfangle star from the previous cap still in there, and new caps come with a new nut, so you don't have to worry about getting the old nut out. As long as you buy a fork with a head tube as long as your old one or longer, all you have to do is cut it down or add spacers.

reshp1

A used fork will have it installed. Just drive it down past where you intend to cut with a wooden dowel and cut. They only move one way, so make sure you don't drive it too far. A new star nut can be kind of finicky to install, but doable without the special tool. You can also use an expansion plug instead (intended for carbon steerers, but work fine on metal).

terminatorsd

Sorry...the fork is not bent. It is cracked. There is a hairline crack...if I put pressure on one side, the crack gets bigger. The LBS said don't ride...I didn't believe them until I sandpapered the crack and saw it truly was. It's an aluminum fork.

Thanks for all the advice everyone, I have found a few forks online, I will post them up to verify. And going to check the offset...

Bezalel

This looks like a 2010 1.2, it has an aluminum crown with carbon legs.

arex

If it were me, for a commuter, I'd go with a CroMo fork, something resilient. Heavier, sure, but far less likely to ever fail catastrophically.

terminatorsd

Yes it's a 1.2 alpha, the hub offset is 100mm

I am looking at this one one ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/road-Fork-Trek-Carbon-Fiber-Bladed-Alloy-Sterrer-Integrated-Headset-/271896609897?hash=item3f4e4d0469

or

Not sure if the flare is okay on this one

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Madone-Project-1-Carbon-Fork-/321833016043?hash=item4aeebe1aeb

terminatorsd

Hey guys, just wanted to update... After a LOT of researching I ended up with the initial advice. I went to nashbar with a new carbon fork, and grabbed some extra parts. Hopefully 25cc gator tires will fit on the front and back, if not I have some 23cc on my Lemond I can transfer. I assume the 105 components should help up. This is dangerous, because I was looking at dura ace group set for my Lemond but can't justify it...yet.


Anyway, just wanted to say thanks for all the advice. I appreciate it.