Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Wider Tires = Better Cornering?

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Wider Tires = Better Cornering?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-07-15, 11:42 PM
  #1  
jyl
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
jyl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 7,639

Bikes: 61 Bianchi Specialissima 71 Peugeot G50 7? P'geot PX10 74 Raleigh GranSport 75 P'geot UO8 78? Raleigh Team Pro 82 P'geot PSV 86 P'geot PX 91 Bridgestone MB0 92 B'stone XO1 97 Rans VRex 92 Cannondale R1000 94 B'stone MB5 97 Vitus 997

Mentioned: 146 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 392 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 49 Times in 31 Posts
Wider Tires = Better Cornering?

My road bikes have 23-25 mm 700C tires, typically at 100-120 psi, good quality tires (Michelin Pro4 clinchers, Tufo tubulars, etc)

Suppose I built a road bike with 42 mm 650B tires, at whatever psi one uses with such things, using good quality tires (Grand Bois?)

How much faster will I be able to descend a steep, twisty road?
jyl is offline  
Old 10-08-15, 12:29 AM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
catgita's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Long Beach
Posts: 765

Bikes: Fitz randonneuse, Trek Superfly/AL, Tsunami SS, Bacchetta, HPV Speed Machine, Rans Screamer

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 100 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Can't say. Many years ago I would do runs going over 60mph on 23mm tires, but today 32mm tires feel way too skittish to go very fast at all. I don't ride Compass 42s for ultimate speed anyway, but for comfort and higher average speed.
catgita is offline  
Old 10-08-15, 07:26 AM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,883
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 263 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 9 Times in 8 Posts
I'd say you will not see any meaningful different - top speed on a steep twisty road would be more about technique and risk taking more than traction.
Slash5 is offline  
Old 10-08-15, 07:42 AM
  #4  
Senior Member
 
Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,075

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4201 Post(s)
Liked 3,859 Times in 2,307 Posts
In theory the wider tires will have a better footprint for cornering. In the real world I read in the morning paper, every day, of car accidents involving cars with wider tires then I use (on my car). Just proving Slash5's suggestion that equipment isn't the limiting factor. Andy.
Andrew R Stewart is offline  
Old 10-08-15, 08:01 AM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 9,201
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1186 Post(s)
Liked 289 Times in 177 Posts
Originally Posted by jyl
My road bikes have 23-25 mm 700C tires, typically at 100-120 psi, good quality tires (Michelin Pro4 clinchers, Tufo tubulars, etc)

Suppose I built a road bike with 42 mm 650B tires, at whatever psi one uses with such things, using good quality tires (Grand Bois?)

How much faster will I be able to descend a steep, twisty road?
I wouldn't feel comfortable pushing wider tires. They might work OK but with lower pressure they also move around a lot more. 23mm tires have enough traction to lift the rear wheels under heavy braking which is what you'll want to be doing when descending. Not many people have the nerve to test cornering limits on a steep mountain descent but good luck!
gregf83 is offline  
Old 10-08-15, 08:02 AM
  #6  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Morris County, NJ
Posts: 1,102

Bikes: 90's Bianchi Premio, Raleigh-framed fixed gear, Trek 3500, Centurion hybrid, Dunelt 3-spd, Trek 800

Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2167 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
The more important limiting factor may be the road, not the tire. At 40+ mph, even a familiar piece of road can have surprises, like a newly opened pot hole (had that happen). In the fall, there will be wet leaves, maybe even ice (had that happen). In the spring, there will be all of the above plus sand from the spreader trucks (had that happen). Hate to sound like such an old man, but I'm also a survivor - so far.
habilis is offline  
Old 10-08-15, 08:17 AM
  #7  
Mostly harmless ™
 
Bike Gremlin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Novi Sad
Posts: 4,430

Bikes: Heavy, with friction shifters

Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1107 Post(s)
Liked 216 Times in 130 Posts
First let's define conditions:

Both tyres use the same compound and profile.
Both are inflated at appropriate (optimal) pressure and put on a rim of optimal width for the tyre.
The test is done on paved roads.
There is no snow, or ice.

With all the above conditions met: yes, wider tyre will corner as well, or better. It will more easily compensate for pavement irregularities. They will also have better spread of load - over a wider surface, making it possible for the tyre compound to be both grippy (and soft) and hold a lot of cornering force without being torn (skidding, leaving black marks on pavement). This is not possible with a narrow tyre.


On snow and ice - narrower is sometimes better. For example: a thin layer of snow over concrete, or ice road with studded tyres.

Similar goes for off road: sometimes wider is not better - one needs to find an optimal width, thread profile etc.


Wider tyres are also heavier, and take more space. Those are tradeoffs even for pavement riding, on which wider is better for traction and cornering. I believe 42mm width is a point over which there is very little gain (on pavement) - even on rough roads. 28mm is the sweet spot for me and my riding style, conditions.
Bike Gremlin is offline  
Old 10-08-15, 08:22 AM
  #8  
Constant tinkerer
 
FastJake's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 7,954
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 185 Post(s)
Liked 92 Times in 75 Posts
The only way to really find out is to perform a test. I suspect it may have as much to do with the two specific tires or your inflation pressure as it does with the width.

Setup a marked corner in a clean empty parking lot. You will have to paint a line on the ground or put cones out. Look at your speedometer and enter the corner at a higher speed each time until you wash out. Then repeat with the other tire. You'll want to wear pads for this...

With enough runs this will also give you an excellent idea of at-the-limit handling. Similar to learning how much front brake to apply before going over the bars.

Last edited by FastJake; 10-08-15 at 08:25 AM.
FastJake is offline  
Old 10-08-15, 10:26 AM
  #9  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 178
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I'm not convinced bicycle tire profiles are limited in traction by width alone as they are in cars or, even, motorcycles.

Wide motorcycle tires are used for additional traction but it's often due to narrower tires traction profile at the edge that plays more a part than simply "width" as they're not round but intentionally profiled. Bicycle tires are, however, less rigid, more round shaped and don't seem to be designed to run out of traction at certain lean angles.

I'm certain there's a point that width would provide more traction before you start to see other limits of bicycle tires based on their current designs.

And unless your trial-and-error testing involves taking it past the limit (i.e. crashing): I'm sure that comfort level will limit you well before your traction would.
SpikedLemon is offline  
Old 10-08-15, 10:59 AM
  #10  
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
 
SquidPuppet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Coeur d' Alene
Posts: 7,861

Bikes: 3 Chinese Gas Pipe Nerdcycles and 2 Chicago Electroforged Boat Anchors

Mentioned: 75 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2358 Post(s)
Liked 33 Times in 26 Posts
Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart
In theory the wider tires will have a better footprint for cornering. In the real world I read in the morning paper, every day, of car accidents involving cars with wider tires then I use (on my car). Just proving Slash5's suggestion that equipment isn't the limiting factor. Andy.
If the rubber compound and inflated profile (properly sized rims being used) are the same, the 42s would offer significantly greater cornering grip. The contact patch is more than 65% larger than with the 25s. The 42s would also handle surface imperfections better, leading to even better grip.
SquidPuppet is offline  
Old 10-08-15, 11:22 AM
  #11  
Senior Member
 
CliffordK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18375 Post(s)
Liked 4,510 Times in 3,352 Posts
Are you talking pavement or gravel?

I've wondered if some of the pro crashes are caused by too high of tire inflation (so the issue may not be wide tires, but rather over inflation).

A little lower pressure and larger contact patch may help. Perhaps the benefits are non-linear. 28mm? 32mm? 70 psi?

One issue that has been mentioned is that a wide tire mounted on a narrow rim will tend to flex to the side a bit, which may be problematic, so one should choose a decent matching rim and tire.
CliffordK is offline  
Old 10-08-15, 12:34 PM
  #12  
Senior Member
 
rowebr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Washington DC
Posts: 330

Bikes: 1981 Bianchi Limited 650B conversion (sold), 1985(?) Guerciotti retro-roadie, 2018 Specialized Allez Sprint, 2012 Specialized Crux, mid 80's Focus MB-400

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 67 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by jyl
My road bikes have 23-25 mm 700C tires, typically at 100-120 psi, good quality tires (Michelin Pro4 clinchers, Tufo tubulars, etc)

Suppose I built a road bike with 42 mm 650B tires, at whatever psi one uses with such things, using good quality tires (Grand Bois?)

How much faster will I be able to descend a steep, twisty road?

A few years ago I converted my steel Bianchi road bike from 700x28mm to 650Bx38mm. I have more fun with the 650B version in all respects, but especially when descending. Its actually hard for me to explain how big the difference is without sounding like I'm shilling for 650B. Just to take one example among many, for small cracks and bumps in the pavement that you would want to avoid with a 25mm tire, you can just ride right over without even noticing with 650Bx38mm or 42mm.
rowebr is offline  
Old 10-08-15, 01:12 PM
  #13  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Midwest
Posts: 369

Bikes: '10 Fuji Cross Comp, '12 Brompton S-Type, '14 All City Mr Pink

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by SquidPuppet
The contact patch is more than 65% larger than with the 25s. The 42s would also handle surface imperfections better, leading to even better grip.
Isn't the benefit really the latter, rather than the former? The contact patch is larger but the force per unit area lower in equal proportion.
Earl Grey is offline  
Old 10-08-15, 01:30 PM
  #14  
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,598

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7607 Post(s)
Liked 1,355 Times in 862 Posts
Seems there was a more triangular profile so contact patch larger when leaned over ..

FIM Motorcycles have devoted more study on this .. a grippy soft compound may require a wheel change mid race, so there are limits.


How much faster will I be able to descend a steep, twisty road?


You want to take bets on the difference then test it and report back ? and pay the one who hits the right Number

Last edited by fietsbob; 10-08-15 at 01:34 PM.
fietsbob is offline  
Old 10-08-15, 01:39 PM
  #15  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 178
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by SquidPuppet
If the rubber compound and inflated profile (properly sized rims being used) are the same, the 42s would offer significantly greater cornering grip. The contact patch is more than 65% larger than with the 25s. The 42s would also handle surface imperfections better, leading to even better grip.
If you could proportionately increase the rigidity of the 42's sidewall to match that of the 25: i'd buy your logic. Taller tire would contribute to more movement of the tire.
SpikedLemon is offline  
Old 10-08-15, 02:14 PM
  #16  
working on my sandal tan
 
ThermionicScott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CID
Posts: 22,629

Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)

Mentioned: 98 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3871 Post(s)
Liked 2,568 Times in 1,579 Posts
Originally Posted by jyl
My road bikes have 23-25 mm 700C tires, typically at 100-120 psi, good quality tires (Michelin Pro4 clinchers, Tufo tubulars, etc)

Suppose I built a road bike with 42 mm 650B tires, at whatever psi one uses with such things, using good quality tires (Grand Bois?)

How much faster will I be able to descend a steep, twisty road?
I would expect the impact to be mostly psychological, so highly subjective and individual. Some people have no fear descending the steepest roads at top speed on 23mm tires (or narrower). OTOH, I know I feel a lot more secure descending and cornering on wider tires.
__________________
Originally Posted by chandltp
There's no such thing as too far.. just lack of time
Originally Posted by noglider
People in this forum are not typical.
RUSA #7498
ThermionicScott is offline  
Old 10-08-15, 02:50 PM
  #17  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Above ground, Walnut Creek, Ca
Posts: 6,681

Bikes: 8 ss bikes, 1 5-speed touring bike

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 86 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts
i'm still up in the air WRT wider tires and rims.

but i'm thinking of investing in a set, if the chatter is correct, that they also do light house-cleaning and windows...
hueyhoolihan is offline  
Old 10-08-15, 02:55 PM
  #18  
Constant tinkerer
 
FastJake's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 7,954
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 185 Post(s)
Liked 92 Times in 75 Posts
Gosh darn you all. Now I want to build up a fat tire (38-50mm) bike and try this out for myself.
FastJake is offline  
Old 10-08-15, 03:00 PM
  #19  
working on my sandal tan
 
ThermionicScott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CID
Posts: 22,629

Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)

Mentioned: 98 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3871 Post(s)
Liked 2,568 Times in 1,579 Posts
Originally Posted by FastJake
Gosh darn you all. Now I want to build up a fat tire (38-50mm) bike and try this out for myself.
You mean you don't have one already?
__________________
Originally Posted by chandltp
There's no such thing as too far.. just lack of time
Originally Posted by noglider
People in this forum are not typical.
RUSA #7498
ThermionicScott is offline  
Old 10-08-15, 04:58 PM
  #20  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: X
Posts: 75

Bikes: Modified 1992 Trek 750

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Another factor worth considering: the type of rubber in the tires. I have a hot rod car that has soft rubber tires, 335's in fact, and I don't get 10,000 miles to a tire change. But I'd take a 90 degree turn at high speed and feel safe (ok, maybe not 90 degrees...)

Harder rubber lasts longer but does not grip as well. Soft tires do, but they also wear out faster.
60_tooth_ring is offline  
Old 10-08-15, 05:15 PM
  #21  
Senior Member
 
squirtdad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Posts: 9,845

Bikes: Kirk Custom JK Special, '84 Team Miyata,(dura ace old school) 80?? SR Semi-Pro 600 Arabesque

Mentioned: 106 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2338 Post(s)
Liked 2,822 Times in 1,541 Posts
My question would be....if wider are really faster on down hills (and I think that is a big if) why wouldn't pro's use them?

Could be as simple as the inefficiency going uphill is greater than down hill gains .

Or simply that wide tires are not faster
__________________
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)



squirtdad is offline  
Old 10-08-15, 05:48 PM
  #22  
Senior Member
 
Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,075

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4201 Post(s)
Liked 3,859 Times in 2,307 Posts
Originally Posted by squirtdad
My question would be....if wider are really faster on down hills (and I think that is a big if) why wouldn't pro's use them?

Could be as simple as the inefficiency going uphill is greater than down hill gains .

Or simply that wide tires are not faster
Well, there is a movement among pro teams to not use just 23s for all but cobbles. But more to the reason is that pros are paid to ride by companies who have a investment in their product's market placement. In other words the pros are paid to ride what their sponsors want then to. Or at least look like it in the photos and press. Sure, some top tier riders have clauses or exclusions in their contracts but these are the exceptions. Another aspect of riding as a pro is that it is a job. Both in wanting to keep the job as well as not wanting to spend one's own money to work the job. A bike, to many pros, is a tool. Sometimes your work requires you to use certain tools, like an OS system or a brand of drug for 'scripts. Last thing is that racing bikes can be so very psychological. Perceptions often over rules measurements. This last point is slowly changing from what I can tell but still has a lot of momentum. Andy.
Andrew R Stewart is offline  
Old 10-08-15, 05:49 PM
  #23  
Senior Member
 
caloso's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Sacramento, California, USA
Posts: 40,865

Bikes: Specialized Tarmac, Canyon Exceed, Specialized Transition, Ellsworth Roots, Ridley Excalibur

Mentioned: 68 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2952 Post(s)
Liked 3,106 Times in 1,417 Posts
Originally Posted by SpikedLemon
If you could proportionately increase the rigidity of the 42's sidewall to match that of the 25: i'd buy your logic. Taller tire would contribute to more movement of the tire.
Good point. I came here to make this point. I definitely feel the difference going from 25mm to 36mm.
caloso is offline  
Old 10-08-15, 06:49 PM
  #24  
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
 
SquidPuppet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Coeur d' Alene
Posts: 7,861

Bikes: 3 Chinese Gas Pipe Nerdcycles and 2 Chicago Electroforged Boat Anchors

Mentioned: 75 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2358 Post(s)
Liked 33 Times in 26 Posts
Originally Posted by SpikedLemon
If you could proportionately increase the rigidity of the 42's sidewall to match that of the 25: i'd buy your logic. Taller tire would contribute to more movement of the tire.
I'm not following you here.
SquidPuppet is offline  
Old 10-08-15, 08:00 PM
  #25  
Global Warming Witness
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Mtl.Qc.Can
Posts: 321
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by rowebr
A few years ago I converted my steel Bianchi road bike from 700x28mm to 650Bx38mm. I have more fun with the 650B version in all respects, but especially when descending. Its actually hard for me to explain how big the difference is without sounding like I'm shilling for 650B. Just to take one example among many, for small cracks and bumps in the pavement that you would want to avoid with a 25mm tire, you can just ride right over without even noticing with 650Bx38mm or 42mm.
Are the 650B wheels wider rimmed to go along with the wider tires?
Plimogz is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.