Semi-Integrated Headset
#1
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Semi-Integrated Headset
I have a 2011 Fuji Sagres with a heavy 1 1/8" threaded SR Suntour suspension fork and a terrible adjustable stem that creaks like crazy. The specs say is has a "Fuji Leisure Sealed, Semi-Integrated 1 1/8" headset.
I would like to lose the suspension fork in favor of a rigid fork and a threadless headset/stem setup.
The 'semi-integrated' part has me concerned, though. I take it I can't just buy a 1 1/8" threadless headset for this?
Any pointers on what would be the best way forward to lose the terrible suspension fork and adjustable stem? Would like a lighter weight rigid fork setup.
Thank you!
I would like to lose the suspension fork in favor of a rigid fork and a threadless headset/stem setup.
The 'semi-integrated' part has me concerned, though. I take it I can't just buy a 1 1/8" threadless headset for this?
Any pointers on what would be the best way forward to lose the terrible suspension fork and adjustable stem? Would like a lighter weight rigid fork setup.
Thank you!
#2
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Make sure to look for a "suspension corrected fork", in order to not upset the bike geometry. It might work OK with a standard length fork, but it might also not work - having a twitchy steering.
#3
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The difference between ZS (semi-integrated) and EC (External Cup) headset is how they are fitted into the frame, they function in the same way.
If swapping the forks, all that you would need to do is have the crown race removed from the current fork, and have it fitted to the new one.
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[strike]Semi-integrated means Zero-Stack. The bearings are in cups but the cups are inside the headtube so the stack height is greatly reduced.
It is still a standard 1 1/8" steerer.[/strike]
It is still a standard 1 1/8" steerer.[/strike]
Last edited by Bezalel; 11-25-15 at 02:56 AM.
#5
Senior Member
I believe Fuji called it semi-integrated because it still had top locknut for threaded assembly, but otherwise, the frame is technically a normal integrated headset design (not semi-integrated with a bottom pressed cup), but uses open-ball bearings instead of cartridge bearings.
I'm not sure what OP's options are, because I believe the setup uses open-ball bearings, not a cartridge assembly. Finding an integrated, open-ball bearing top crown would be difficult.
Last edited by Jamminatrix; 11-06-15 at 01:05 AM.
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If you can do this, you could just service the bearings in your existing headset and either replace or troubleshoot the creaky stem.
#7
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Thanks for the replies, everyone! This helps me understand
I'm not having trouble with the headset. I just hate the stem and want to lose the shock fork. Sounds like I need to locate a 1 1/8 threaded stem and a 1 1/8 suspension corrected rigid fork.
I thought it would be better to upgrade to threadless, but from what I'm reading the chances don't look good.
Thanks again for your replies!
I'm not having trouble with the headset. I just hate the stem and want to lose the shock fork. Sounds like I need to locate a 1 1/8 threaded stem and a 1 1/8 suspension corrected rigid fork.
I thought it would be better to upgrade to threadless, but from what I'm reading the chances don't look good.
Thanks again for your replies!
#8
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Thanks for the replies, everyone! This helps me understand
I'm not having trouble with the headset. I just hate the stem and want to lose the shock fork. Sounds like I need to locate a 1 1/8 threaded stem and a 1 1/8 suspension corrected rigid fork.
I thought it would be better to upgrade to threadless, but from what I'm reading the chances don't look good.
Thanks again for your replies!
I'm not having trouble with the headset. I just hate the stem and want to lose the shock fork. Sounds like I need to locate a 1 1/8 threaded stem and a 1 1/8 suspension corrected rigid fork.
I thought it would be better to upgrade to threadless, but from what I'm reading the chances don't look good.
Thanks again for your replies!
Cane Creek sell the top and bottom cups separately 10-Series
No reason why you can't upgrade to a threadless headset, the chances of getting a current/suspension corrected for are about zero so thinking this will probably be your only option.
For your current headset having open bearings, really not seeing why this is an issue, either replace, or leave alone (your be replacing the top assembly anyway), it doesn't matter what type of bearing they are in the bottom
#9
Constant tinkerer
I'm not having trouble with the headset. I just hate the stem and want to lose the shock fork. Sounds like I need to locate a 1 1/8 threaded stem and a 1 1/8 suspension corrected rigid fork.
I thought it would be better to upgrade to threadless, but from what I'm reading the chances don't look good.
I thought it would be better to upgrade to threadless, but from what I'm reading the chances don't look good.
1 1/8" threaded is a pain due to its rarity. Stem selection is limited and you're still stuck with a threaded system. It will be almost impossible to find a rigid fork that fits your bike if you stay threaded.
Personally I would get a generic 1 1/8" threadless fork, stem, and figure out the upper bearing situation. It can't be that bad. I'm not good with the "integrated" stuff but there must be a threadless headset available for that frame.
#10
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I hadn't pickup up on the headset being threaded before, but even though the top cup is, you don't need to replace the complete headset if going threadless, just the top cup.
Cane Creek sell the top and bottom cups separately 10-Series
No reason why you can't upgrade to a threadless headset, the chances of getting a current/suspension corrected for are about zero so thinking this will probably be your only option.
For your current headset having open bearings, really not seeing why this is an issue, either replace, or leave alone (your be replacing the top assembly anyway), it doesn't matter what type of bearing they are in the bottom
Cane Creek sell the top and bottom cups separately 10-Series
No reason why you can't upgrade to a threadless headset, the chances of getting a current/suspension corrected for are about zero so thinking this will probably be your only option.
For your current headset having open bearings, really not seeing why this is an issue, either replace, or leave alone (your be replacing the top assembly anyway), it doesn't matter what type of bearing they are in the bottom
Just want to make sure I'm getting the terminology correct. Is Zero Stack the same as Semi-Integrated? Since I have a threaded headset cap, I'm not sure exactly what type of cap needs to be there in a threadless setup.
#11
Champion of the Low End
Thread Starter
Never in my life did I expect to see a bike with a 1 1/8" threaded, semi-integrated headset. That's a weird one.
1 1/8" threaded is a pain due to its rarity. Stem selection is limited and you're still stuck with a threaded system. It will be almost impossible to find a rigid fork that fits your bike if you stay threaded.
Personally I would get a generic 1 1/8" threadless fork, stem, and figure out the upper bearing situation. It can't be that bad. I'm not good with the "integrated" stuff but there must be a threadless headset available for that frame.
1 1/8" threaded is a pain due to its rarity. Stem selection is limited and you're still stuck with a threaded system. It will be almost impossible to find a rigid fork that fits your bike if you stay threaded.
Personally I would get a generic 1 1/8" threadless fork, stem, and figure out the upper bearing situation. It can't be that bad. I'm not good with the "integrated" stuff but there must be a threadless headset available for that frame.
#13
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#14
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Thread Starter
As an update to this thread, I did upgrade to a threadless fork/stem setup on this bike, and I did so by buying a Ritchey Comp Semi Integrated Headset for $20 on eBay.
Ritchey Comp Press Fit Semi Integrated 44mm 1 1 8" Headset Black | eBay
Not only did the top cap fit, the bearings are an exact replacement for those in the Fuji headset. The crown race was a bit differently shaped but the ID was the same so I could press it onto the fork and everything fit together properly.
This is a big improvement over the creaky adjustable stem and cheap/heavy SR Suntour suspension fork. The front of the bike sits a touch closer to the ground, but this was not an issue for me on my test rides.
Ritchey Comp Press Fit Semi Integrated 44mm 1 1 8" Headset Black | eBay
Not only did the top cap fit, the bearings are an exact replacement for those in the Fuji headset. The crown race was a bit differently shaped but the ID was the same so I could press it onto the fork and everything fit together properly.
This is a big improvement over the creaky adjustable stem and cheap/heavy SR Suntour suspension fork. The front of the bike sits a touch closer to the ground, but this was not an issue for me on my test rides.
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