work4bike

This is my second SRAM PC 830 8-speed chain replacement and I don't think I'll ever buy one agian I've looked at videos of installation/removal of the Powerlink and it looks easy as hell, but I can't get that sumbich on, forget about removal, I'll just use an old fashion delinker tool. I'm trying to remember what I did last time, if I resorted to a delinker or just finally got it on, but right now I'm getting frustrated as hell gettting the damn thing on.

Anyone have this issue with the SRAM Powerlinks?

SlvrDragon50

Nope... just you I think.

IrishBrewer

Move the link to the upper side of the drive train, squeeze the brakes and give the pedal a good stomp and it will lock into place.

You can easuly make a removal tool with a length of wire cut from a coat hanger. Bend it into a vee then about half way up from each leg of the vee, bend opposing "C" bends facing each other. Works as good as the store bought tool,is free and fits in your saddle bag. Can't beat that.

1nterceptor

You're doing the removal/install with the chain off the chainring right?
With the chain on and the tension from the RD; it can be a bit tricky.

sonatageek

I have used SRAM chains for years and never had a problem with the Powerlinks.

leob1

Are you sure youre using the right link? Are you sure youre using an 8 speed link with an 8 speed chain? A lower speed link will work(in an emergency) with a higher speed chain, but not the other wy around. Is every thing clean? the tolerance is pretty tight, so dirty parts will prevent it from going together.

dsbrantjr

They have worked fine for me as well, never an issue.

work4bike

Well, job completed, but this time I'll remember what I did. To answer a couple questions:

I did have the chain on the Chainring, but not on the rear cassette, since I just changed out the cassette and the wheel was off, so tension was not an issue.

Also the Powerlink was the correct one for the chain, since I just bought the chain, which came with the Powerlink. (I was replacing my Chain and Rear Cassette).

This is basically what I did: I bent down the links on either side of the power link and then I took vice-grips and squeezed/compressed the Powerlink and it clicked together.

JanMM

I'm confused......with SRAM and KMC connecting links that I use, squeezing/compressing the link is for disconnecting.

This Park tool is used to disconnect the link by squeezing. https://www.parktool.com/product/mast...category=Chain

Andrew R Stewart 

The OP squeezed across the diagonal corers of the link to set it. Just as one can do to disengage it. Any.

habilis

Whatever works for you. Next time, however, try the foot-power method described in a previous post. Just be sure the side plates are lined up properly on both sides. Whatever you do, do NOT attempt to set just one side plate at a time. Maybe I'm the only fool who ever tried this, but it cost me a power link.

hueyhoolihan

i kind 'a hate 'em...
i often have trouble getting them off and occasionally on too. very frustrating... i'd just as soon do it the old way, with a chaintool. but only a few chains are made these days to allow that, mostly 7 speed chains. or 1 1/8" chains. IME anyway.

i recently had one that would go together, but JUST NOT SNAP PAST the waisted portion, leaving it shorter than all the other links, if you know what i mean. i ended up positioning that link between the cog and chainring (on the upper side) and tromping on the crank. THAT did it! of course, it'll play hell with it comes time to get it off, i suppose...

hotbike

I prefer to use a chain rivet extractor (delinker) as I have been working on bikes for forty years... Power links are a new thing and I don't trust them... I have several power links and other spare links... And as a reminder, there used to be a thing called a Master link, but it wouldn't fit through a derailleur, it was only for one speed bikes...

Shimagnolo

I put on chains with the bike hanging on the workstand.
Just turn the crank until the link is in the top segment between chainring and cog, then give the pedal a sharp rap with my fist.

JanMM

OK. That makes sense. Never tried that.

JanMM

Haven't used a chain tool for anything but shortening chains for quite a few years. Have used lots of 8- and 9-speed masterlinks in that time period. Sometimes two on one chain - since I ride a tandem and single recumbents, which live on long chains. Never a breakage or unexpected disconnect with those links.

dedhed

I've always used the brakes and pedal method to set them. I've found that 6-7-8 speeds I can disengage by hand but the 10 I had to fabricate pliers to remove them. I also have an old brake spring bent I use to take the tension off when installing them on the bike without removing the chain from any rings or cogs.

SkyDog75

Like Huey hinted at above, "modern" chains aren't meant to be rejoined by removing & reinserting a pin with a chain tool. In order to make those chains narrower to fit in the spacing of 8/9/10/11 speed cassettes, the ends of the pins are roughly flush with the chain's outer plates and have a small peen at the end to prevent the plate from slipping off the pin. When you push out a pin with a chain tool, you may shear off that tiny peen. If you reuse that same pin with its peen sheared off, it's a potential failure point for the chain. To address this potential failure point, Shimano and Campagnolo have special pins to rejoin their chains. It's a whole lot more convenient to use quick links like SRAM Powerlinks or KMC Missing Links, though.

At what point do they stop being "new"? They've been around for roughly 20 years now, haven't they?

They're still around, but like you mentioned, they're not derailleur-friendly.

Retro Grouch 

8-speed links are silver. 9-speed links are gold.

RandomTroll

I have no trouble installing power/master/super/... links, including lots of SRAMs (have an 830 installed now) but I've bungled the de-linking (with jury-rigged tools) so I always push out a rivet. Originally these were sold as 'tool-free' - now they sell tools for them.

agenkin

I use SRAM chains *because* of the powerlink. I've never had issues joining or opening a link. For joining, I use a double hook made out of an old spoke to keep the two ends of the chain together - takes the load off the chain and allows me to concentrate on joining the powerlink without worrying for the chain tension to draw the two ends apart.

scott967

I've had SRAM but now I am on KMC. Can't see any difference in the link. I use the Park tool and it works great. I wax chains and have two in rotation so chains go off/on all the time. At least with wax, I need to make sure the link goes all the way in (push it in and turn it back and forth some) and also that the notch is clear (just use my fingernail on it).

scott s.
.

spdracr39

To set the link I put the chain on and hold the rear brake while tapping the crankarm with a rubber mallet. It seems to be helpful if it is in the large ring up front.

IrishBrewer

Before I knew it was taboo, I used a chain break tool on a 10 speed KMC chain and while it worked for a short period of time, it ended up coming apart while out on a ride so I would highly recommend using the proper links for these modern chains.

I agree that they don't come apart easily without some sort of tool, especially when the chain is a little gunked up but as I mentioned, a simple DIY tool is all that's needed.

Shimagnolo

Be aware that not all SRAM/KMC links are alike:

- SRAM 8s (silver) and 9s (gold) links are called "PowerLink" and come apart easily. The 10s (black) links are called "PowerLock" and latch tightly when installed, making a tool necessary for removal.

- KMC also has both types of links, even for the same speed! In my experience, it is totally random which one you get when you buy a 10s chain, and there is no indication on the box which type link is included. (When you buy only a link, they use the terms "re-useable" or "non re-useable" to distinguish them).