SlvrDragon50

So when I first got my BD bike, I greased the fork because everyone said I should do it.

I thought I put all the cups/cones back in correctly, and I've ridden the bike for over a month without any issues. I just noticed today while putting Koolstops on my front wheel that my handle bar can move forward...

I'm guessing this is not normal? Before I go diving back in to the fork to try and see if I actually did do the cups/cones correctly, can anyone confirm this for me that I did it incorrectly? The top seal under the spacers spins freely when I move it.

andr0id

You have to preload the cap BEFORE you tighten down the pinch bolts on the stem.
Just a little bit though. None of your spacers should spin.

SlvrDragon50

The spacers don't spin, only the little plastic cover below all of the spacers. I preloaded the headset then tightened down the stem.

dsbrantjr

Try redoing the adjustment, the races may have settled in causing slight looseness and it may need a small tweak.

jimc101

Where did you apply grease to the fork?

Any grease on the fork should be removed on the sections covered by the stem/spacers (i.e. when the headset is in stalled, all the exposed areas.

SlvrDragon50

I applied grease to the fork according to a Global Cycling Network video. I greased the bearings, and a portion of the bottom part of the fork tube.

I will try redoing the adjustment though. I really need to get a work stand

fietsbob

I manage to adjust those types of headsets fine, with the wheel on the Ground.. ..

nfmisso

+1 they really need to be done on the ground so that gravity is in your favor pushing the fork up through the frame. See Sheldon's site also.

elmore leonard

If you have tightened everything up and the fork is still a bit loose it maybe the result of the compression nut bottoming out before it contacts the spacers. So in a case like this you may need to add one spacer or a thicker spacer.

elmore leonard

[h=2]Copied from Park Tools site.


Threadless Headset Adjustment[/h] Threadless headsets work on the same principal as threaded headsets. The bearing races need to press against the bearings. The bolt in the top cap will put pressure on the stem, which presses on washers below the stem, which press on the bearing races, which press against the bearings.
NOTE: The cap and bolt at the top of the stem do not secure the stem onto the steering column. The bolt or bolts on the side of the stem keep the stem from moving once the adjustment is made. The cap is used for bearing adjustment only.
Begin by removing the adjusting bolt in the center of the steering column. Next, remove the top cap. There may be a star-shaped nut or other fittings inside the steering column. The bolt threads into this fitting and pulls on the fork against the headset bearing surfaces, which acts to tighten the adjustment. Note the height of the steering column relative to the stem. It should be about 3mm (1/8”) below the level of the stem. The stem needs to press down on the spacers in order to adjust the bearings. If the steering column is level with the top of the stem, another spacer is needed below the stem.

1. Remove bolt and top cap to inspect steering column. Lubricate adjusting bolt and reinstall cap and bolt by hand only. Do not tighten.
2. Loosen stem bolt(s) that secure stem to the steering column. Lubricate these bolts if they are dry. NOTE: Do not lubricate inside stem or on steering column surface.
3. Wiggle the stem side to side to see that it is loose. If the stem is jammed or rusted frozen to the steering column, no adjustment can be made.
4. Align stem straight to wheel and gently secure the top bolt. Stop when any resistance is felt.
5. Tighten stem bolt(s).
6. Check for play by pulling back and forth on fork. Turn the handlebars in different directions while checking for play. There may be play at this early setting. Use care when grabbing suspension forks, because the legs may have play. Grab upper portion of fork.
7. To adjust bearings, loosen stem bolt(s).
8. Turn adjusting bolt in center cap only 1/8th turn clockwise.
9. Secure stem bolts, check for play again.
10. Repeat adjustments as above until play disappears. Remember to loosen stem bolts before turning adjusting bolt in cap.
11. Check alignment of stem and tighten stem binder bolts fully.

NOTE: Another test of play is to place the bike on ground and grab the front brake tightly. Press downward on the handlebars and rock the bike forward and back. A knocking sensation may indicate a loose headset. In effect this does the same thing as grabbing and pulling on the fork. However, play in the brake caliper arms may also cause a knocking. Front suspension forks may also have play in the legs, which can cause a knocking.If the adjustment seems very tight, there may be other problems in the headset. Bearing surfaces may be worn out, or the ball bearing retainers may be upside down, or a seal may be improperly aligned. If play always seems present no matter the adjustment, the steering column may be too long for the stem and top cap. Add spacers beneath stem in this case.

SlvrDragon50

Sorry, I meant the work stand for the fork bearings and whatnot.

It was just a pain with the bike constantly falling over while I was trying to align the bearings. That's the only reason why I'm not sure if I did it correctly.

On the bright side, it's snowing now, and my riding season is over so no rush!

fietsbob

Loosen the stem and dont have the top cap in place and threadless forks fall out.

not that a repair stand is not generally useful .. try to hold the bike between your legs and it wont fall over.

cale

It is pretty common for headsets to come out of adjustment, even when you do know what you're doing. Haha

The adjustment procedure is pretty straight forward.

A) Hold the bike frame at the headtube with your left hand and with your right hand grasp the fork blade (mid-section) and try to rock it back and forth. If you're holding the bike firmly, you should be able to feel any movement (the fork steerer inside the headtube). With the palm of your right hand, continuing to hold the frame off the ground, strike the fork blade to ensure that fork is settled into its races. A couple "blows" with your hand should cause any loosely bound parts to realign properly.

B) If you sense rocking movement within the headtube, prepare to loosen the fittings for readjustment. Start by loosening the stem bolts that clamp the steerer tube. Insert your allen key in the allen-head bolt centered in the cap. Tighten the cap bolt 1/4 turn clockwise, then retighten the stem bolts, alternating between upper and lower bolt to spread the compressing forces evenly.

C) Repeat the test in step (A) to determine if the adjustment has gone through successfully.

I've also used the "rocking method" for checking my headset adjustment. With the left brake lever (assuming left lever/front brake) fully compressed, try to rock the bike back and forth to sense any looseness. This method works better on some bikes than others and has the advantage of letting the bike rest on the ground while you're testing. But you get more feedback when the two parts are tested by hand.

Taking the wheel out of the fork when you're adjusting the headset can help if you find it difficult to hold the loaded fork off the ground for extended periods. It lso makes the front end easier to grasp.

SlvrDragon50

So when I removed the stem to look at what was going on inside the column, the centering compression sleeve (the split ring) is slipping in its place and letting the fork move. And just to verify I am describing the right parts, I am talking about the ring that is present after removing the top cage bearing and race.

Maybe I just have a bad compression ring and need to get a new one? (even though it's a new bike :/)

Wait... I'm looking at this picture now:


I don't even have that big compression ring. I have this tiny split ring the fits between the space between the column and tube.

elmore leonard

In error and delete.

SlvrDragon50

So weird that I don't have one. I don't remember even seeing it when I first took apart the stem.

So where can I get a compressionn ring? I can't find Ritchey compression rings anywhere. Only Cane Creek.

elmore leonard

Any good bike shop should steer you right.

SlvrDragon50

Awesome, thanks!

elmore leonard

I think maybe now you do not need a compression ring as the compression is supplied by the top cap, bolt and star nut. The steering column relatively to the stem should be 1/8" below the level of the stem. Sorry for my confusion.

SlvrDragon50

Oh, hum. Yes it is an 1/8" below the level of the stem. The only other thing I can think of is the spacers not being thick enough, but I find it weird that they would design a bike where the spacers are not enough from the factory.

I think I'll have to recheck my bearings and make sure they were inserted correctly.

fietsbob

factory cannot make all the fit decisions for you from china.

elmore leonard

Isn't your mother calling you?

joejack951

I have had a few assembly errors on bikes I have purchased, both online and from a store. My MTB from Performance Bike was missing a spacer for the bottom bracket that allowed my whole crank to move side to side. The most recent bike I bought from BD had the rear cassette small cog incorrectly installed which left the rest of the cassette loose on the freehub. So don't be surprised if it is happening to you.

Do you know the specs for the headset, manufacturer and model? I am sure there is a tech doc somewhere online showing the correct parts and assembly order. It is very likely you are missing a part or something is switched around. It is a waste of time to speculate without being there to see for myself, though.

SlvrDragon50

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All I know is that it has a Ritchey stem:

Ritchey Comp 4Axis, Threadless Aluminum, 31.8mm clamp, 1.125 Steerer
STEM.EXT-6°)90/100/110mm FOR 47-52/54-56/58-64CM,C/S:31.8/28.6x42mm

I'll send BD an email since they're usually pretty helpful. I'll probably take another stab at the guts today. Just to verify my bearings are in the correct orientation. I just assumed that if I had no gaps then the bearings are correct.

joejack951

I am just realizing that the picture posted isn't yours. Can you post a pic of the parts you have and the order in which they are assembled?