HELP PLEASE! Sturmey Archer AW 3 Speed Overhaul
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HELP PLEASE! Sturmey Archer AW 3 Speed Overhaul
I'm a mechanic at an LBS and a customer (friend) brought in his 1960's Schwinn Speedster because the rear hub was making lots of noise (mostly squeaking). After finding many articles online about how to overhaul this hub, I thought it would be fun to disassemble the hub, clean it, relubricate (or grease), and put it back together. Simply because of the learning curve, this took a lot longer than I expected it to. The hub was a little daunting at first but after taking it apart and putting it back together multiple times, it seems much more simple. HOWEVER, I CAN NOT GET THIS DAMN THING TO WORK!!! When the hub is assembled in the vice without the hub shell over it, everything seems great. Starting from a bare axle with the sun gear, everything went back on smoothly. I must be missing a step though because when I put the hub back in the wheel, something has gone wrong 3 times now. The first time, got it put back together, took the wheel out of the vice, and the axle felt like it was locked into place, but neither of the cones were extremely tight. Also, the chain that connects to the clutch would not move at all. Took it apart and put it back together again and the only thing I changed was really paying attention to how the gear ring and the planet cage assembly lined up. I made sure that when things were lined up, the clutch would move all the way up the opening it moves through. It felt better this time but was still tight, but moving. I put it on the bike and tried to make it work. It was difficult to pedal, but seemed like it moved into at least 2 gears. However, it freewheeled a lot and the shifts were not consistent in any way. Took it apart again and found out one of the pawls was upside down so I changed that. Put it back together and axle was locked up again for no apart reason. WHAT AM I DOING WRONG!?!? I'M DESPERATE!!! I have to be missing a step or a part? I've read the instructions a million times though and watched multiple videos. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!
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In case you haven't found these, perhaps they might help:
Servicing The Sturmey-Archer AW Wide-Ratio Three Speed Bicycle Hub
https://www.sturmey-archerheritage.co...s/view-133.pdf
I had a problem somewhat like yours one time, tore down and re-assembled the hub several times tearing out my hair, then realized I had installed the pinion pins upside-down. Turn them the right way, and it all worked.
Servicing The Sturmey-Archer AW Wide-Ratio Three Speed Bicycle Hub
https://www.sturmey-archerheritage.co...s/view-133.pdf
I had a problem somewhat like yours one time, tore down and re-assembled the hub several times tearing out my hair, then realized I had installed the pinion pins upside-down. Turn them the right way, and it all worked.
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In case you haven't found these, perhaps they might help:
Servicing The Sturmey-Archer AW Wide-Ratio Three Speed Bicycle Hub
https://www.sturmey-archerheritage.co...s/view-133.pdf
I had a problem somewhat like yours one time, tore down and re-assembled the hub several times tearing out my hair, then realized I had installed the pinion pins upside-down. Turn them the right way, and it all worked.
Servicing The Sturmey-Archer AW Wide-Ratio Three Speed Bicycle Hub
https://www.sturmey-archerheritage.co...s/view-133.pdf
I had a problem somewhat like yours one time, tore down and re-assembled the hub several times tearing out my hair, then realized I had installed the pinion pins upside-down. Turn them the right way, and it all worked.
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#5
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This video from the Brits is excellent - I usually recommend print instructions over videos but this one is well worth a look.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ea6krXSs-lc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ea6krXSs-lc
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Check pawls to make sure both sets are installed the right direction and those silly hair springs are working. Also, the 4 pieces of the clutch have to be in the proper order: clutch sleeve goes on the axle first, followed by the clutch, then the cross piece that goes through the axle and accepts the shift rod, then the cap that captures the cross piece. Tons of internet pages and videos on this so you'll get it right eventually.
I hope you are doing this for your friend as a friend and not as a customer.
I hope you are doing this for your friend as a friend and not as a customer.
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Check pawls to make sure both sets are installed the right direction and those silly hair springs are working. Also, the 4 pieces of the clutch have to be in the proper order: clutch sleeve goes on the axle first, followed by the clutch, then the cross piece that goes through the axle and accepts the shift rod, then the cap that captures the cross piece. Tons of internet pages and videos on this so you'll get it right eventually.
I hope you are doing this for your friend as a friend and not as a customer.
I hope you are doing this for your friend as a friend and not as a customer.
#8
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I've learned by using the Sturmey Archer instructions & watching "Graham's Garage" YouTube video where he does it very simply and explains the subtleties. I've never had a single issue. Of course, I think it's fun.
Good luck.
Good luck.
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The pawls are in the correct way and all the clutch hard ware is properly installed. Now that I'm looking at diagrams again, I'm almost positive I inserted the four pinion pins in the wrong way. I stuck the thin diameter end of the pin in first, so the clutch was engaging the thick end. I realize now it's the other way around. Hoping that was the problem.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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I've rebuilt a couple of AW hubs. I'm not a pro, so this is just my personal experience. One thing I was unable to find, was a good explanation of how to adjust the drive side cone. (I haven't checked all of the links offered in this thread). Because you can make up for the DS cone being in the wrong place, with the NDS cone, you can run into two problems: Too tight, and the thing binds up. Too loose, and it will be hard to get it into low gear.
The best I've come up with, is to tighten the DS cone with the mechanism out of the hubshell, until it's finger tight, then back off ~ 1/4 turn to the next place where you can get the lock washer to sit down around it. Now tighten the DS lock nut. The mechanism should be able to turn around the axle before sliding it into the hubshell. Then I tighten the ball ring all the way, and do final adjustment of the bearings with the NDS cone, leaving the DS cone alone.
Another thing I've found is that the shift cable should be adjusted so it can always be pulled just a tiny bit further, when the lever is set to low gear. Having that cable permanently taut when in low gear will strip the threads between the indicator rod and the bar that pulls up on the clutch.
The best I've come up with, is to tighten the DS cone with the mechanism out of the hubshell, until it's finger tight, then back off ~ 1/4 turn to the next place where you can get the lock washer to sit down around it. Now tighten the DS lock nut. The mechanism should be able to turn around the axle before sliding it into the hubshell. Then I tighten the ball ring all the way, and do final adjustment of the bearings with the NDS cone, leaving the DS cone alone.
Another thing I've found is that the shift cable should be adjusted so it can always be pulled just a tiny bit further, when the lever is set to low gear. Having that cable permanently taut when in low gear will strip the threads between the indicator rod and the bar that pulls up on the clutch.
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The pawls are in the correct way and all the clutch hard ware is properly installed. Now that I'm looking at diagrams again, I'm almost positive I inserted the four pinion pins in the wrong way. I stuck the thin diameter end of the pin in first, so the clutch was engaging the thick end. I realize now it's the other way around. Hoping that was the problem.
I always tell myself to take pictures when I disassemble something, but rarely do because 1) I know what I am doing, 2) The camera's in the house, 3) my memory is good, 4) it takes too long ... take your choice. The weird thing is that before digital cameras, I used to make detailed drawings as I took things apart. Of course in those days there was no internet to consult so the results of a mistake were harder to rectify.
Anyhow, now that you've been in the hub a few times you are the shop expert.
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Thank you everyone for the tips! The pins for the pinions were definitely upside down. Also realized that I started to screw in the ball cup at the wrong point and therefore it didn't bottom out. Once those two issues were fixed, all it took was a little cable adjustment and the thing fired right up! Stoked to say the customer is happy and I am now an expert on these hubs - hahah.
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The collective wisdom of the 'net comes through again!
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.