I couldn't car less.
Join Date: Nov 2003
Bikes: Ritchey P-series prototype, Diamondback, Nishiki Triathelon Pro.
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Being loose does not mean bearing replacement -though if you intend to use the wheel for a good amount of time -bearing and grease replacement is how you do it.
If you can find a junk wheel, play with it first
The balls can be sized and purchased @ the lbs.
You need a waterproof bearing grease, I use Phil Woods specific for bicycles.
The play can be stopped by unscrewing the first nut, the tightening the second inside nut -which is a race (inside the nut has a concave face -this is one side of the bearing 'race'.)
The new ball, grease is to protect this race from wear.
The fun is tightening down the race and second nut to get no play -yet no binding of the bearings on the race.
You get into 1/8 turns to get it perfect.
If you simply tighten the race,(correctly) listen carefully to the balls turning -any gritty\less than smooth rolling and the balls are shot.
They false or true brinell? Anyway, if the hubs been loose, it probably false brinelled the balls.
A visual inspection of the balls -If in anyway you can tell them apart from new -then they are shot.
Oh, and a towel under the hub to catch bearings as they fall out and carefully count how many per side.
Hope some of this helps -good luck...well, read the Parktool stuff and use less luck, more grease.
Last edited by jeff williams; 05-04-05 at 12:00 PM.