What difference does the Crank Length Make
#26
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I have an old Rudge, which used to all have 7 1/8 ... 182 mm. My old Raleigh 5 spd had gutless 165s.
4 Years ago I got a SA 5w and first used it 3 times with those 165s. Then I got a new crank with 180s. Instantly had the 9% more power, especially up hills. I can still wiz it up, which is the best way for speed. I am just 5' 8". Went 4200 miles on tour with it and a Rohloff.
With a derailler it is just lost in the gearing. 165 does now feel knuckle toed by comparison.
4 Years ago I got a SA 5w and first used it 3 times with those 165s. Then I got a new crank with 180s. Instantly had the 9% more power, especially up hills. I can still wiz it up, which is the best way for speed. I am just 5' 8". Went 4200 miles on tour with it and a Rohloff.
With a derailler it is just lost in the gearing. 165 does now feel knuckle toed by comparison.
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I'd say the most comfortable/efficient crank length for a particular rider corresponds to their leg length and preferred cadence.
Persons with longer legs will usually feel better running longer cranks. But it's harder to spin a longer crank as fast as one could spin a shorter one, so persons who like spinning higher RPM's will often feel better with a shorter crank. So it's a balance of the two. This is why you really have to try different sizes for yourself and see which you prefer.
I'd also say the popular 170mm length is likely ultimate, or close to ultimate, for a high percentage of riders.
Persons with longer legs will usually feel better running longer cranks. But it's harder to spin a longer crank as fast as one could spin a shorter one, so persons who like spinning higher RPM's will often feel better with a shorter crank. So it's a balance of the two. This is why you really have to try different sizes for yourself and see which you prefer.
I'd also say the popular 170mm length is likely ultimate, or close to ultimate, for a high percentage of riders.
#28
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I'd say the most comfortable/efficient crank length for a particular rider corresponds to their leg length and preferred cadence.
Persons with longer legs will usually feel better running longer cranks. But it's harder to spin a longer crank as fast as one could spin a shorter one, so persons who like spinning higher RPM's will often feel better with a shorter crank. So it's a balance of the two. This is why you really have to try different sizes for yourself and see which you prefer.
I'd also say the popular 170mm length is likely ultimate, or close to ultimate, for a high percentage of riders.
Persons with longer legs will usually feel better running longer cranks. But it's harder to spin a longer crank as fast as one could spin a shorter one, so persons who like spinning higher RPM's will often feel better with a shorter crank. So it's a balance of the two. This is why you really have to try different sizes for yourself and see which you prefer.
I'd also say the popular 170mm length is likely ultimate, or close to ultimate, for a high percentage of riders.
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Excessively short strokes, like F1 engines, do have issues with emissions due to extra surface area but for most uses, shorter is better. However, I have no reason to think that applies to crank length.
#30
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Seems 165 cranks are used on Track Bikes, so if you are not at full speed
the up slope foot and pedal wont hit the Banked track.
the up slope foot and pedal wont hit the Banked track.
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I remember reading a study a while back that showed shorter cranks offered more performance, and while it's fuzzy in my memory now, it seems it had something to do with the amount of oxygen used by the rider.
If you have links please post.
#33
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"...a study** done by Jim Martin at the University of Utah (Determinants of maximal cycling power: crank length, pedaling rate and pedal speed). What did this study show?"
Ref: https://www.powercranks.com/cld.html
**Jim Martin's study (University of Utah) is used by manufaturers to justify making fewer options available, but the research showed that going as low as 145mm may actually help put you closer to your peak efficiency.
* https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11417428
Personally, my experience on training equipment has seen steady improvements in both pace and cadence going to 106 mm cranks.
Last edited by McBTC; 01-24-16 at 07:16 PM.
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How does this research deal with the fact that a longer crank offers more leverage, and therefore more torque? So while a rider may not be able to spin a longer crank as fast, he/she doesn't have to because the increased leverage allows them to gear up a bit. This is why it seems to me it comes down more to personal preference.
I remember reading a study a while back that showed shorter cranks offered more performance, and while it's fuzzy in my memory now, it seems it had something to do with the amount of oxygen used by the rider.
If you have links please post.
I remember reading a study a while back that showed shorter cranks offered more performance, and while it's fuzzy in my memory now, it seems it had something to do with the amount of oxygen used by the rider.
If you have links please post.
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Anyway, that limited data in the study you referenced showed an insignificant difference between 145 and 170 mm cranks. I also wonder what the sample number of riders tested was. Lots of poorly controlled studies get published showing what the sponsor wants to show.
#36
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You own experience negates that data which shows a significant fall off in power as the crank length goes below 120 mm. Oh wait, did you mean 160 mm cranks?
Anyway, that limited data in the study you referenced showed an insignificant difference between 145 and 170 mm cranks. I also wonder what the sample number of riders tested was. Lots of poorly controlled studies get published showing what the sponsor wants to show.
Anyway, that limited data in the study you referenced showed an insignificant difference between 145 and 170 mm cranks. I also wonder what the sample number of riders tested was. Lots of poorly controlled studies get published showing what the sponsor wants to show.
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bottom line ... the faster the front crankwheel turns, the faster the bike travels (assuming that you remain using the same gearing) ....
so if you have a faster cadence/rpm's using the same gearing, then you faster ... a shorter crank gives you a faster cadence
correct me if I'm wrong
#38
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bottom line ... the faster the front crankwheel turns, the faster the bike travels (assuming that you remain using the same gearing) ....
so if you have a faster cadence/rpm's using the same gearing, then you faster ... a shorter crank gives you a faster cadence
correct me if I'm wrong
so if you have a faster cadence/rpm's using the same gearing, then you faster ... a shorter crank gives you a faster cadence
correct me if I'm wrong
#39
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That's a big if. If you can turn a faster cadence using the same gearing then certainly you go faster.....but you need to generate more power to do it and maybe you can and maybe you can't. A shorted crank does not give you a faster cadence, particularly against increased resistance. It may allow some riders to spin faster but they may also need a lower gear to do it.
#40
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It's hard to believe that people can feel differences in crank lengths when the differences are so tiny, but some of us can. When I get on a bike with 172.5 cranks, something feels a little weird. On a bike with 175s, I just can't get comfortable.
That may have something to do with my physique. I have short thighs and long feet. One of my bikes has 155s! It doesn't feel strange to me at all. In fact, it doesn't feel different than 170s except that it requires me to raise the seat a bit so I can straighten my legs at the bottoms of the pedal strokes. This puts my center of gravity a little high, and that's what I'm really feeling.
That may have something to do with my physique. I have short thighs and long feet. One of my bikes has 155s! It doesn't feel strange to me at all. In fact, it doesn't feel different than 170s except that it requires me to raise the seat a bit so I can straighten my legs at the bottoms of the pedal strokes. This puts my center of gravity a little high, and that's what I'm really feeling.
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#41
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bottom line ... the faster the front crankwheel turns, the faster the bike travels (assuming that you remain using the same gearing) ....
so if you have a faster cadence/rpm's using the same gearing, then you faster ... a shorter crank gives you a faster cadence
correct me if I'm wrong
so if you have a faster cadence/rpm's using the same gearing, then you faster ... a shorter crank gives you a faster cadence
correct me if I'm wrong
#42
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That's a big if. If you can turn a faster cadence using the same gearing then certainly you go faster.....but you need to generate more power to do it and maybe you can and maybe you can't. A shorted crank does not give you a faster cadence, particularly against increased resistance. It may allow some riders to spin faster but they may also need a lower gear to do it.
...with the resulting lower foot speed comes countervailing benefits that more than compensate for these variables, at least for those who experience greater efficiency going to a shorter crank. The greatest benefit will be for those for whom shifting to an even higher gear feels completely natural when going to a shorter crank.
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#44
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The more the knee bends the less leverage it has. The knee bends less as the crank shortens so even though some leverage is lost because the crank shortens leverage is gained because the knee is in a more favorable position to apply force so it is a wash pretty much. Then there is pedal speed. The faster the pedal is moving the harder it is to apply force to the pedal. Longer cranks tend to have higher pedal speeds. So, while it takes less force to generate power when cranks are longer it is harder to apply that force to the pedal both because the pedal is moving faster (usually) and the knee is bent more. Change one thing to make it better changes other things to make it worse. This explains why power stays pretty much constant over a wide range of crank lengths.
Another way to look at this is to look at what goes on around the entire pedaling circle. Power generation is more than pushing hard but also involves getting the foot out of the way on the backstroke. The best way to maximize the average power around the pedal stroke is to do what is called "pedal in circles", where the work performed by the muscles remains pretty much constant. This concept is more fully explained here. Below is an example of a real world pedaling pattern that can further explain why longer cranks rob the rider of power or why power doesn't drop (or increases) when cranks are shortened...
Last edited by McBTC; 01-25-16 at 07:11 PM.
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The underlying and undeniable scientific principle involved is ... What is gained in force is lost in distance. Newton's Laws.
181.5 is 10% more than 165. Me with the long crank will do 90 revs for your 100. Our TOES will be going EXACTLY the same speed along our respective circumference of motion. My knees will be pushing at 10% less weight than you. So I don't see how knee strain is a factor. I can see how high revs do help in high speed applications.
181.5 is 10% more than 165. Me with the long crank will do 90 revs for your 100. Our TOES will be going EXACTLY the same speed along our respective circumference of motion. My knees will be pushing at 10% less weight than you. So I don't see how knee strain is a factor. I can see how high revs do help in high speed applications.
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Browsing through studies, it seems that, other than at extremes, crank length doesn't make a significant difference to power.
That is the conclusion of the Martin study quoted above. Determinants of maximal cycling power: crank length, pedaling rate and pedal speed. - PubMed - NCBI
And also two more studies:
Effect of crank length on joint-specific power during maximal cycling. - PubMed - NCBI
"These data demonstrate that crank length does not affect relative joint-specific power once the effects of pedaling rate and pedal speed are accounted for. Our results thereby substantiate previous findings that crank length per se is not an important determinant of maximum cycling power production."
Effects of crank length on maximal cycling power and optimal pedaling rate of boys aged 8-11 years. - PubMed - NCBI
"Power produced when using the 170 mm cranks [mean (SEM)] [364 (18) W] did not differ from that produced with the LL20 cranks [366 (19)]. Optimal pedaling rate was significantly greater for the LL20 cranks [129 (4) rpm] than for the 170 mm cranks [114 (4) rpm]."
However, it seems there are some potential differences:
- Shorter cranks require higher cadence to get the same power as longer cranks. So if you prefer faster or slower cadence, you might prefer shorter or longer cranks.
- Shorter cranks require less range of motion at the leg joints. So if you already have limited ROM/flexibility, or conversely if you are worried about losing ROM/flexibility (use it or lose it), you might prefer shorter or longer cranks.
- Shorter cranks keep your knees lower at the top of the pedal stroke, which could permit a flatter back, so depending on flexibility and tibia/femur length, and on your need to ride in an aero position (TT or climber?), you might prefer shorter cranks.
- Shorter cranks require lower gearing, so depending on whether your lowest gearing needs to be and/or can be made lower (like, are you already using the lowest gearing your bike can have, to climb), you might not prefer shorter cranks.
- Shorter cranks require a higher saddle, which may result in a more rearward saddle, and possibly some setback adjustment.
According to the 20% of leg length formula that some propose, I should ride 165 mm cranks. I'll keep an eye out for cranks in that length (that I'd want to see on my bike . . . )
Come to think of it, I've previously had occasion to drill holes in a solid alloy crankarm, and it was pretty easy using a drill press. I suppose I could buy a cheapish crank, drill and tap a bunch of holes, and experiment away, without spending several hundred dollars on "adjustable" cranks that weigh 1000 g (PowerCranks etc).
That is the conclusion of the Martin study quoted above. Determinants of maximal cycling power: crank length, pedaling rate and pedal speed. - PubMed - NCBI
And also two more studies:
Effect of crank length on joint-specific power during maximal cycling. - PubMed - NCBI
"These data demonstrate that crank length does not affect relative joint-specific power once the effects of pedaling rate and pedal speed are accounted for. Our results thereby substantiate previous findings that crank length per se is not an important determinant of maximum cycling power production."
Effects of crank length on maximal cycling power and optimal pedaling rate of boys aged 8-11 years. - PubMed - NCBI
"Power produced when using the 170 mm cranks [mean (SEM)] [364 (18) W] did not differ from that produced with the LL20 cranks [366 (19)]. Optimal pedaling rate was significantly greater for the LL20 cranks [129 (4) rpm] than for the 170 mm cranks [114 (4) rpm]."
However, it seems there are some potential differences:
- Shorter cranks require higher cadence to get the same power as longer cranks. So if you prefer faster or slower cadence, you might prefer shorter or longer cranks.
- Shorter cranks require less range of motion at the leg joints. So if you already have limited ROM/flexibility, or conversely if you are worried about losing ROM/flexibility (use it or lose it), you might prefer shorter or longer cranks.
- Shorter cranks keep your knees lower at the top of the pedal stroke, which could permit a flatter back, so depending on flexibility and tibia/femur length, and on your need to ride in an aero position (TT or climber?), you might prefer shorter cranks.
- Shorter cranks require lower gearing, so depending on whether your lowest gearing needs to be and/or can be made lower (like, are you already using the lowest gearing your bike can have, to climb), you might not prefer shorter cranks.
- Shorter cranks require a higher saddle, which may result in a more rearward saddle, and possibly some setback adjustment.
According to the 20% of leg length formula that some propose, I should ride 165 mm cranks. I'll keep an eye out for cranks in that length (that I'd want to see on my bike . . . )
Come to think of it, I've previously had occasion to drill holes in a solid alloy crankarm, and it was pretty easy using a drill press. I suppose I could buy a cheapish crank, drill and tap a bunch of holes, and experiment away, without spending several hundred dollars on "adjustable" cranks that weigh 1000 g (PowerCranks etc).
Last edited by jyl; 01-26-16 at 03:00 AM.
#47
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The reality is that if there was one perfect length, everyone would be using it. Teams, sponsors, and manufacturers of the industry all spend millions of dollars every year on developing technology and looking for seconds. And so far, there's still no conclusive evidence other than personal preference - that seems to *generally* correlate with rider size.
Torque only starts. Horsepower is what maintains.
You've neglected deflection of joints, ligaments, and muscles increasing.
You've neglected deflection of joints, ligaments, and muscles increasing.
#48
Senior Member
The underlying and undeniable scientific principle involved is ... What is gained in force is lost in distance. Newton's Laws.
181.5 is 10% more than 165. Me with the long crank will do 90 revs for your 100. Our TOES will be going EXACTLY the same speed along our respective circumference of motion. My knees will be pushing at 10% less weight than you. So I don't see how knee strain is a factor. I can see how high revs do help in high speed applications.
181.5 is 10% more than 165. Me with the long crank will do 90 revs for your 100. Our TOES will be going EXACTLY the same speed along our respective circumference of motion. My knees will be pushing at 10% less weight than you. So I don't see how knee strain is a factor. I can see how high revs do help in high speed applications.
Last edited by McBTC; 01-26-16 at 12:58 PM.
#49
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If the crank does not reach from the spindle to the pedal, you will find your performance compromised.
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On a more serious note, I think torque is a big issue, which is why MTBs and tourers tend (IME) to offer longer cranks---getting all that mass moving, or doing so on rough surfaces. other than that there is an issue of comfort ... I have relatively long legs. I used to feel more comfortable with 175s. Now I am older, weaker, and used to 170s, and my 175s feel a little long ... but i doubt I would notice after half-an-hour.