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  1. #1
    Newbie erhan's Avatar
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    is this a good time to replace the chain?

    The chain has exactly 1/16" stretch in 12 inches, and dents like in the picture on almost every link. it has about 1200 km.s on it (3/4 is road). Should I change it, or is it good for a little more?


  2. #2
    Senior Member sydney's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erhan
    The chain has exactly 1/16" stretch in 12 inches, and dents like in the picture on almost every link. it has about 1200 km.s on it (3/4 is road). Should I change it, or is it good for a little more?

    The 'dents' are supposed to be there. Word on the street is replace at 1/16" elongation. 1200 k is dismal chain life.Did you lube it?

  3. #3
    Senior Member skydive69's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erhan
    The chain has exactly 1/16" stretch in 12 inches, and dents like in the picture on almost every link. it has about 1200 km.s on it (3/4 is road). Should I change it, or is it good for a little more?

    That is terrible chain wear - I have 4400 miles on my current chain, and it is still within tolerance and working flawlessly. It also looks like new. I guess cleaning and lubing after every ride (which takes a few brief minutes) is not such an anal idea afterall!
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  4. #4
    la vache fantôme phantomcow2's Avatar
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    and im made fun of for cleaning my chain several times a week plus after ever offroad ride. I should refer them here
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  5. #5
    Newbie erhan's Avatar
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    But I cleaned and lubed this chain after each trail ride, and every 2 road rides. Actually my friends, and neighbours seriously think I'm crazy or something After what you guys have said, it seems like the chain had unusually short lifetime. I really don't get it, because I take care of my bike more than most people does. may be too much mud, too much climbing?

  6. #6
    la vache fantôme phantomcow2's Avatar
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    even climbing should be fine. How much mud are you seeing? Are you using a really wet lube like pedros syn lube? That will attract a mountain of dirt
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  7. #7
    Senior Member mtbikerinpa's Avatar
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    In east coast use I hardly get more than one season out of a chain on the mtb, simply because it is very gritty dirt and very rainy. Nonetheless, that particular chain is worn. What is your typical gear under heavy load? That looks like a chain that is cross-chained and shifted under load often. The place I am looking is the outer face of the inner link. The chamferring of the outer plate edges is intentional, but the coarse file-type marks are from chainring teeth. That ammount of scraping is not endemic by itself, but it is something to look into.
    Aviation Mechanic, Bike racer, Fitness Equipment Restorer

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  8. #8
    Newbie erhan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phantomcow2
    even climbing should be fine. How much mud are you seeing? Are you using a really wet lube like pedros syn lube? That will attract a mountain of dirt

    well, probably only 60-80km of 1200 was in mud. I used to use Finish Line but is was picking too much dust, so I changed to pro-link about half-way. It seems to be better with pro-link.

    If you remember I was also complaining about the wear in my chainrings too in the mtb forum, which I think surprised some people. I really don't know what I should do...

  9. #9
    Senior Member mtbikerinpa's Avatar
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    I use finish line wet and pedros wet but they have to be maintained constantly. Since I have recently achieved workspace at work I use LPS-2 lubricant, which is what we use as a long term oil on aircraft. So far it has worked well and is a boat load cheaper.
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  10. #10
    Senior Member skydive69's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phantomcow2
    and im made fun of for cleaning my chain several times a week plus after ever offroad ride. I should refer them here
    Hey, a clean/lubed bike is a fast bike, and I want to be fast! My fiance's son is a pro. He visited, and had his bike shipped in advance. The chain and cogs were dirty, the chain was out of tolerance, the bearings in his Speedplay pedals were shot, etc. I really gave him a hard time about it!
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  11. #11
    Senior Member mtbikerinpa's Avatar
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    Yeah give him a real hard time!
    A powerful rider can race on lesser maintained equipment, but it is bad form and inefficient. To add to it, Drivetrain maintenance is relaxing.
    Aviation Mechanic, Bike racer, Fitness Equipment Restorer

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  12. #12
    Newbie erhan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbikerinpa
    In east coast use I hardly get more than one season out of a chain on the mtb, simply because it is very gritty dirt and very rainy. Nonetheless, that particular chain is worn. What is your typical gear under heavy load? That looks like a chain that is cross-chained and shifted under load often. The place I am looking is the outer face of the inner link. The chamferring of the outer plate edges is intentional, but the coarse file-type marks are from chainring teeth. That ammount of scraping is not endemic by itself, but it is something to look into.
    Thanks for the inspection I think I load all gears, but may be mid chainring-mid 3 cogs get the most load. I always try to avoid cross-chaining (no matter what the situation is), so I front-shift quite often. Those marks on the inner links must be from shifting under load only. That is one thing I can't avoid. I try to ease off before shifting, but sometimes can't get it right. I guess I have to work on my timing?
    Thanks again, this was more helpful.

  13. #13
    Senior Member skydive69's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbikerinpa
    Yeah give him a real hard time!
    A powerful rider can race on lesser maintained equipment, but it is bad form and inefficient. To add to it, Drivetrain maintenance is relaxing.
    Part of it is probably that he gets his stuff for free. I have over 10 Kbucks invested in two of my bikes so I take great care of them. Plus I do enjoy working on them.
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  14. #14
    Bicycle Luge Racer khackney's Avatar
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    Keeping track of which way the chain is installed and then periodically turning it "inside/out" can increase the effective life of your components. It won't do anything for stretch, but the wear on the plates from shifting will be doubled. Clean is the key to long life for your chain.
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  15. #15
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    Improper shifting isn't going to increase chain wear. It's just going to increase the chance of chain twisting or failure and put lots of nice little dings in your links. Was your chain mated to a new cogset when installed? If not, that may account for some accelerated wear. Try different lubes (I love DuMonde Tech mtn.) to see which will increase your chain life. Try different chains, too. And and expensive chain won't always last longest - I wore out a Rohloff in four months. Absolutely the last time I buy the most expensive chain!

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