Headset change vintage raleigh rapide
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 42
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Headset change vintage raleigh rapide
I have a 1983 raleigh rapide that I use as my everyday commuter. The headset is original and is due for a replacement/upgrade. It is a 1" threaded steerer. Have done some research (ie read sheldon's page) and cannot decipher whether I should get a standard ISO threading or the special Raleigh threading? Will it even make a difference?
#2
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,784
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3587 Post(s)
Liked 3,400 Times
in
1,934 Posts
If the steer tubes uses Raleigh's proprietary 1" x 26tpi thread, ISO threaded parts won't fit. But the lower stack (crown race and lower pressed cup) aren't threaded and have standard dimensions. These are the parts that suffer the most wear, so you could replace them with standard headset parts and keep the upper stack and it's 26tpi threading to make it all work.
#4
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,784
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3587 Post(s)
Liked 3,400 Times
in
1,934 Posts
You can use a thread gauge, or simply try to thread a known ISO (24tpi) cup or locknut onto the steer tube. If it can thread on without a struggle, your steer tube is ISO thread. If not, it's likely 26tpi thread.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,073
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4201 Post(s)
Liked 3,857 Times
in
2,305 Posts
I strongly believe that the Rapide is 24TPI. It was one of the early Asian made Raleighs and all those bike I've dealt with are Asian standard (JIS not English/Witworth). Andy.
#6
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 42
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
No it's definitely a Nottingham made frame. It's not a world beater, but it's not a beater either. It has 531 main triangle with high ten rear and forks.
#7
Full Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Retired to Penang Malaysia originally from UK
Posts: 346
Bikes: My 1978 Raleigh from new, 1995 Trek, & constant changing & rebuilding of other bike projects.
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 41 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
If you do try another locknut as there is very little difference between the threads be very careful, do not in any way try to force it or use any spanners etc. I think these early Raleigh locknuts had a unique shape think it's mentioned & shown on Sheldon 's retro Raleigh write up
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times
in
742 Posts
Hadn't Raleigh converted to "English" threading throughout by 1983?
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,073
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4201 Post(s)
Liked 3,857 Times
in
2,305 Posts
So educate me please. Can you post photos of the bike? The head badge, the "made in" decal, the headset, the stay end treatments? Andy.
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Peoria, IL
Posts: 4,476
Mentioned: 86 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1829 Post(s)
Liked 3,375 Times
in
1,580 Posts
Interesting topic! I'm a fan of Raleigh, having owned a '74 Gran Sport that I bought new and rode for 14 years. During that time, I did end up replacing the lower cup and cone, primarily because the stack height of the replacement headset wouldn't fit the bike. It seemed like a bit of a hack, although it was functional.
What options exist for someone who needs to replace the upper race? This is one of the things that has kept me away from this (and earlier) era(s) of Raleighs.
On the other hand, I do own a nice '74 International and a '82 Raleigh Team, but liked the standardized threading and dimensions that come with the Campy parts.
Steve in Peoria
What options exist for someone who needs to replace the upper race? This is one of the things that has kept me away from this (and earlier) era(s) of Raleighs.
On the other hand, I do own a nice '74 International and a '82 Raleigh Team, but liked the standardized threading and dimensions that come with the Campy parts.
Steve in Peoria
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,073
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4201 Post(s)
Liked 3,857 Times
in
2,305 Posts
Steve- Have you confirmed that the steerer on your Gran Sport is 26TPI or 24TPI? During this era of Raleigh production there was some interchanging of the steerer spec among the mid grade bikes with little consistency. I have seen the "Raleigh" headset (the design with the balls having almost axial to the steerer contact angles) in, the less common but still made, 24TPI. The replacement of the lower stack has been done by many to solve the "Raleigh" head set tendency to bind and be loose at the same time. (BTW these headsets were VERY sensitive to the number of balls in both races. The lower tacking one more ball then the top and both having slightly more then one ball gap). Andy.
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Peoria, IL
Posts: 4,476
Mentioned: 86 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1829 Post(s)
Liked 3,375 Times
in
1,580 Posts
hi Andy,.. the Gran Sport is long gone... although its spirit lives on as being the basis for the geometry for the two custom frames I've had built. Lovely bike, though...
Raleigh did seem to have a knack for selecting attractive color schemes.
back to the headset... I don't recall any issues with the number of bearings in the headset, and I would repack bearings annually. The headset was a pretty basic model; functional but nothing more. I was happy when I upgraded the lower parts with a better quality model... a Gipiemme, I think.
I really do appreciate standardized sizes, threads, etc., which is probably why I have a number of bikes that are all equipped with Campy Nuovo Record parts or equivalents. No worries about finding replacement parts or compatible threads.
I'm having an issue with a modern bike with a FSA headset with cartridge bearings. After having a hard time finding a replacement cartridge, now I'm having trouble getting the play out of the adjustment without binding. Life is so much easier with the old cup & cone and loose bearing types. The change from loose to perfect to tight is fairly distinct and easy to find.
thanks,
Steve in Peoria
Raleigh did seem to have a knack for selecting attractive color schemes.
back to the headset... I don't recall any issues with the number of bearings in the headset, and I would repack bearings annually. The headset was a pretty basic model; functional but nothing more. I was happy when I upgraded the lower parts with a better quality model... a Gipiemme, I think.
I really do appreciate standardized sizes, threads, etc., which is probably why I have a number of bikes that are all equipped with Campy Nuovo Record parts or equivalents. No worries about finding replacement parts or compatible threads.
I'm having an issue with a modern bike with a FSA headset with cartridge bearings. After having a hard time finding a replacement cartridge, now I'm having trouble getting the play out of the adjustment without binding. Life is so much easier with the old cup & cone and loose bearing types. The change from loose to perfect to tight is fairly distinct and easy to find.
thanks,
Steve in Peoria
#13
Senior Member
I am confused by your model descriptions. The Rapide I know and sold for a few years was an Asian made bike. Hi Ten tubes with basic SunTour gearing. The Raleigh with 531 main tubes, hi ten rear stays was most commonly the Super Course. I never knew of an English made bike using the Rapide name.
So educate me please. Can you post photos of the bike? The head badge, the "made in" decal, the headset, the stay end treatments? Andy.
So educate me please. Can you post photos of the bike? The head badge, the "made in" decal, the headset, the stay end treatments? Andy.
Could the confusion here be between Raleigh UK (the Rapide below is a UK bike) and USA?
#14
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,784
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3587 Post(s)
Liked 3,400 Times
in
1,934 Posts
Mostly likely you'll need to scour the used market. Fortunately, upper races seldom wear out, even when neglected for years. Headset loads are mostly thrust loads, which load the lower stack while unloading the upper stack, so there's very little wear on the upper races. The purpose of the upper race is to hold things in alignment, not to carry load.
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Peoria, IL
Posts: 4,476
Mentioned: 86 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1829 Post(s)
Liked 3,375 Times
in
1,580 Posts
thanks John!
No plans to shop for another Raleigh right now, but you never know what you might stumble across.
It has crossed my mind that a Gran Sport would make a nice fixed gear bike.
Steve in Peoria
No plans to shop for another Raleigh right now, but you never know what you might stumble across.
It has crossed my mind that a Gran Sport would make a nice fixed gear bike.
Steve in Peoria
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,073
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4201 Post(s)
Liked 3,857 Times
in
2,305 Posts
This explains a lot. Thanks. Although the OP neglected to include his location (one of my pet peeves along with use of "handles" instead of actual names) I still would have not known the England home market specs or model names. Andy.
#17
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 42
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Sorry forgot to say the bike was made for the UK market. I've always found it strange that bikes that had the same name were made from different materials and components in different countries. Was the UK made rapide sold in the US as well?
#18
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 42
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Last edited by peugeot.ash; 03-03-16 at 11:59 AM. Reason: space
#19
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,784
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3587 Post(s)
Liked 3,400 Times
in
1,934 Posts
Damaged threads, perhaps? Riding with a loose headset can damage the threads on the steer tube and make it impossible to hold adjustment.
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,073
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4201 Post(s)
Liked 3,857 Times
in
2,305 Posts
The Raleigh Rapide sold in the US was an Asian produced bike at the lower/lowest level of the LBD scale. Hi ten frame, steel rims, steel cranks, ders, bars, post. 27x 1 1/4" gum wall tires with SVs. Stem shift levers with extension brake levers. Vinyl padded seat. In 1980 (or so) it likely sold for about $175. It was part of the first wave of Asian made Raleigh branded bikes. The year before the Asian made Raleigh distributed bikes were called Rampar to protect the Raleigh name (or to work around licensing agreements). We found these early Asian "Raleighs" to be less nice to ride but easier to assemble and of more consistent quality control. Andy.