Frame worth building up?
02-28-16, 05:11 PM
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Frame worth building up?
A friend gave me an '87 Cannondale road frame with fork and handlebars. My intent is to build it up. I've always wanted to build up a bike. Frame looks straight and no noticable dings. Was wondering if it would be worth building up. From what I've read it's usually not cost effective to build up a frame vs buying a new bike. Also planning on stripping it down and repainting.
So for starters is this frame too low end to bother with?
Additionally, any ballpark estimates on cost? Wheels, tires, tubes, brakes, drivetrain, seat, & other stuff?
Thanks.
So for starters is this frame too low end to bother with?
Additionally, any ballpark estimates on cost? Wheels, tires, tubes, brakes, drivetrain, seat, & other stuff?
Thanks.
02-28-16, 05:19 PM
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Depends.
If you are building it to sell with the idea of making a lot of money, and you don't already have a big box of spare parts to pick from, it probably isn't going to be cost effective.
If you are building it to ride yourself or just for the experience of building a bike, that's a different story. If you eventually lose a little money when you sell it, simply consider that tuition in the school of bike mechanics. It would certainly be worth it for me, in fact, I've got a similar project going in my basement shop right now.
If you are building it to sell with the idea of making a lot of money, and you don't already have a big box of spare parts to pick from, it probably isn't going to be cost effective.
If you are building it to ride yourself or just for the experience of building a bike, that's a different story. If you eventually lose a little money when you sell it, simply consider that tuition in the school of bike mechanics. It would certainly be worth it for me, in fact, I've got a similar project going in my basement shop right now.
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02-28-16, 05:31 PM
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One way to save some money on this project is to look for a donor bike on CL. You will probably find the cost prohibitive if you have to buy the parts new.
02-28-16, 05:41 PM
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This one. I figure I'll scrounge at the bike coop, ebay and sales for parts. Combination of learning and satisfaction of riding a bike I built up. I think I'd be better off selling the frame if it was a profit thing.
02-28-16, 05:49 PM
#5
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I've always wanted to build up a bike.
differential the facory gains by getting parts by the 8 by 8 by 20 foot container .
Use your search abilities to get what the parts cost yourself.
there is a series of price point ranges , you will see different components on a $300 bike
Vs what comes on a $3000 one.
Last edited by fietsbob; 02-28-16 at 05:53 PM.
02-28-16, 06:18 PM
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A friend gave me an '87 Cannondale road frame with fork and handlebars. My intent is to build it up. I've always wanted to build up a bike. Frame looks straight and no noticable dings. Was wondering if it would be worth building up. From what I've read it's usually not cost effective to build up a frame vs buying a new bike. Also planning on stripping it down and repainting.
So for starters is this frame too low end to bother with?
Additionally, any ballpark estimates on cost? Wheels, tires, tubes, brakes, drivetrain, seat, & other stuff?
Thanks.
So for starters is this frame too low end to bother with?
Additionally, any ballpark estimates on cost? Wheels, tires, tubes, brakes, drivetrain, seat, & other stuff?
Thanks.
02-28-16, 06:21 PM
#7
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What is your budget for the build? For ~$400, you could have everything you need to modernize the bike (full Tiagra 4700 group and wheelset). You can go cheaper than that as well but at some point you'll need to start looking at used parts or give up on using integrated shifters. If $100 is your budget and you want STIs, then get scrounging. Deals are out there if you have the time to dig for them.
02-28-16, 07:06 PM
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02-28-16, 07:21 PM
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Yes, aluminum. 400 sounds like a good budget, actually hadn't thought about thw budget yet. It's a 58, my present road bike is a 57 so I think it will fit.
02-28-16, 08:04 PM
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Setting a budget has to be done before deciding what to get since bike components run the price spectrum.
02-28-16, 08:15 PM
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You can also scan Ebay for lightly used components for a budget build.
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02-28-16, 08:36 PM
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If you have the parts and most of the tools, or you have an inexpensive source for parts and you plan to acquire more tools, sure, go for it But if value is of any concern, don't go overboard, especially with cosmetics and upgrades. Make it functional and fun.
By the way, heat-treated aluminum does not respond well to cold-forging. To avoid frustration trying to spread the stays and square the dropouts, just use a wheel that matches the existing spacing.
By the way, heat-treated aluminum does not respond well to cold-forging. To avoid frustration trying to spread the stays and square the dropouts, just use a wheel that matches the existing spacing.
Last edited by oldbobcat; 02-28-16 at 08:43 PM.
02-28-16, 08:44 PM
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If you strip the frame for repainting be careful not to use anything chemical, like lye, that will damage aluminum and do not sand blast it. Those frames weren't exceedingly thin walled but they weren't very thick either.
The one thing you will find is that the rear spacing is almost certainly 126 mm or "7-speed" so finding suitable hubs is going to require some searching. Since the frame is aluminum, cold setting (i.e. bending) the dropouts to the current 130 mm 8/9/10-speed standard can't be safely done.
The one thing you will find is that the rear spacing is almost certainly 126 mm or "7-speed" so finding suitable hubs is going to require some searching. Since the frame is aluminum, cold setting (i.e. bending) the dropouts to the current 130 mm 8/9/10-speed standard can't be safely done.
02-28-16, 08:54 PM
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An 87 was still 126? I have an 85 ST-400 that I'm pretty sure is 128 designed to go either way, but I could be remembering it wrong. Getting a modern wheelset in there wasn't that difficult.
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02-28-16, 08:59 PM
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I have had several Cannondale frames of that vintage in my hands. All measured about 126mm and all easily accepted a 130mm rear wheel. If the thought of that scares you, you can always remove a small amount of NDS spacer (to make it 128mm) and re-dish the wheel. Assuming you start with a typical 8/9/10 speed freehub wheel the result won't be any weaker than a current 11 speed freehub wheel.
02-28-16, 09:11 PM
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I too have 1980s Cannondales using 130mm wheels. No problem. I don't recommend "cold setting" the frame, just nudge the dropouts open a bit when inserting the wheel.
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02-29-16, 12:42 AM
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Check your local Craigslist for a parts donor bike. Doesn't have to be a Cannondale, just needs to have the Group that you want, with the right length crankset, and wheels that you are willing to ride. I've purchased bikes with cracked frames and complete groups for between $40-$80.
