Why do my disc brakes rub?
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Berlin
Posts: 40
Bikes: Trek 7100 FX
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Why do my disc brakes rub?
I have a bike with Shimano BR-M447 hydraulic disc brakes. I am having trouble with the brakes dragging so I am trying to understand what is wrong, one step at a time.
I have aligned the pads, pretty much following the technique given here: https://youtu.be/Vet9d_qwIik
For the rear brake everything works fine and everything spins freely with no drag and no noise (I suspect the front has a slightly warped rotor which I am yet to get to). The problem is that after leaving the bike for a few hours (on the repair stand, untouched) the pads are dragging again on one side. I can centre them again but again, after a few hours, the problem is back.
I assume there must be something being compressed when I do the alignment and slowly releasing that tension over time but I'm not sure what. When tightening the bolts I do very small turns alternatively on the bolts. Could it be that I'm not doing them tight enough? I couldn't find a recommend torque value in the manual.
My only other theory is that the hydraulic fluid is in some way compressing from me squeezing the brake lever while aligning and then expanding again - but if that was the case I would guess that more brake lever squeezing would make the problem go away but it has no effect.
This is a follow on from https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-me...ders-even.html
Thanks!
I have aligned the pads, pretty much following the technique given here: https://youtu.be/Vet9d_qwIik
For the rear brake everything works fine and everything spins freely with no drag and no noise (I suspect the front has a slightly warped rotor which I am yet to get to). The problem is that after leaving the bike for a few hours (on the repair stand, untouched) the pads are dragging again on one side. I can centre them again but again, after a few hours, the problem is back.
I assume there must be something being compressed when I do the alignment and slowly releasing that tension over time but I'm not sure what. When tightening the bolts I do very small turns alternatively on the bolts. Could it be that I'm not doing them tight enough? I couldn't find a recommend torque value in the manual.
My only other theory is that the hydraulic fluid is in some way compressing from me squeezing the brake lever while aligning and then expanding again - but if that was the case I would guess that more brake lever squeezing would make the problem go away but it has no effect.
This is a follow on from https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-me...ders-even.html
Thanks!
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,705
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5779 Post(s)
Liked 2,576 Times
in
1,427 Posts
My immediate suspicion is that you have some air in the system.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#3
Senior Member
QR front wheel? Tighten the heck out of the QR. If the QR isn't properly tight, the wheel can shift slightly under braking, leading to what you're seeing.
#4
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Berlin
Posts: 40
Bikes: Trek 7100 FX
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#5
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Berlin
Posts: 40
Bikes: Trek 7100 FX
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,705
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5779 Post(s)
Liked 2,576 Times
in
1,427 Posts
Air also can expand or contract more than oil does with temperature changes so the shoe clearance may change between when indoors and out.
There's no simple test, but someone used to how brakes are supposed to feel will detect the added sponginess when squeezing the lever.
Otherwise, the only way to know is to bleed as if there is air. Before doing so, arrange the bike so the bleed port or connection is at the very top of the system. Then work the lever a few times, alternating with tapping on the lines (flick with a fingernail like nurses do with IV lines) to work any air bubbles to the top. Then do a quick bleed and see if you squeeze any more air out. If/when the weeping oil is clear you're OK.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
worldtraveller
Bicycle Mechanics
8
07-15-12 04:54 AM