cutting my steeerer tube
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cutting my steeerer tube
Hello all. New to the forum. I have built a couple bikes up at this point and am now on my current build. Its a Ritchey Road Logic 2.0. The fork steerer is carbon fiber, the headset was included with the fork. I have never had this problem in any prior build. I cut the steerer tube and unfortunately seem to have left it about one to two mm. too long. When I install all parts and try to drop in the top cap/compression plug, it is not flush with the top of the stem but sticks out about 2 mm. How best to solve my dilemma ? Would it be best to retry the cutting and cut the steerer tube again perhaps another two millimeters, or is it possible to place a two millimeter spacer either under or over the stem and then drop in the compression plug/top cap ? I already have the recommended 30 mm maximum of spacers underneath the stem on the steerer. Thoughts ? Recommendations ? Thanks in advance for feedback.
Jon
Jon
#2
mechanically sound
Put a spacer on top of the stem, under the top cap.
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Would doing so pose a problem for the compression plug to do its job ? It's already about two mm higher than its supposed to be. If I add another 2 mm spacer on top of the stem and under the top cap the compression plug would be about 4 or 5 mm higher than Ritchey specs. Is that ok ?
#4
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Radiator Hose clamps .. but really >>
You invested in Premium stuff why cheap out on tools ?
IE >>> Threadless Saw Guide for Carbon Composite Forks | Park Tool <<<
Its hard to cut freehand and have it come out square..
chucked up in a lathe and having the fork rotating is another method.
You invested in Premium stuff why cheap out on tools ?
IE >>> Threadless Saw Guide for Carbon Composite Forks | Park Tool <<<
Its hard to cut freehand and have it come out square..
chucked up in a lathe and having the fork rotating is another method.
Last edited by fietsbob; 03-27-16 at 02:25 PM.
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?? I didn't use hose clamps. I used the park tool saw guide and a hacksaw with 32 tpi as recommended. What gave you the impression that I used hose clamps ? Are you sure you're in the right thread ?
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Would doing so pose a problem for the compression plug to do its job ? It's already about two mm higher than its supposed to be. If I add another 2 mm spacer on top of the stem and under the top cap the compression plug would be about 4 or 5 mm higher than Ritchey specs. Is that ok ?
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Sorry if I'm not explaining it properly. If I had cut the steerer tube 2 more mm. the top cap would have inserted flush with the top of the stem as is recommended. Because I left the steerer tube 2 mm. too long, when I Insert the compression plug/top cap into the steerer it doesn't flush up against the top of the stem. There is a 2 mm. gap between the top of the stem and the top cap. I already have 30 mm. of spacers under the stem which is the max recommended by the bike manufacturer. If I add the two millimeter spacer there I exceed the limit. I don't know how critical that is since I have never owned a bike with a carbon steerer prior to this build. Can one be added on top of the stem as someone else suggested ? If I do that, the the compression plug which is under the top cap will be about 4 mm. higher in the tube than where it ideally should be. Again never building a bike with a compression plug I don't know how critical that is.
#9
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Sorry if I'm not explaining it properly. If I had cut the steerer tube 2 more mm. the top cap would have inserted flush with the top of the stem as is recommended. Because I left the steerer tube 2 mm. too long, when I Insert the compression plug/top cap into the steerer it doesn't flush up against the top of the stem. There is a 2 mm. gap between the top of the stem and the top cap. I already have 30 mm. of spacers under the stem which is the max recommended by the bike manufacturer. If I add the two millimeter spacer there I exceed the limit. I don't know how critical that is since I have never owned a bike with a carbon steerer prior to this build. Can one be added on top of the stem as someone else suggested ? If I do that, the the compression plug which is under the top cap will be about 4 mm. higher in the tube than where it ideally should be. Again never building a bike with a compression plug I don't know how critical that is.
#10
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If your saying that the steerer with plug installed is proud of the stem by a couple of mm then shove a spacer on top as per this Q and A with Leonard Zinn Technical FAQ: Spacers above stems. - VeloNews.com
#11
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If your saying that the steerer with plug installed is proud of the stem by a couple of mm then shove a spacer on top as per this Q and A with Leonard Zinn Technical FAQ: Spacers above stems. - VeloNews.com
#12
mechanically sound
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https://ritcheylogic.com/wp/wp-conten...nual041708.pdf
On page 4 it states that the compression plug should be no lower than 3 mm from the top of the stem. I suspect their system was designed so that if the top cop bottoms out on the stem than its done right and is at the proper level. It also states that to achieve the desired effect one can leave excess steerer tube and then use a spacer on top of the stem to get the compression plug at the right height. My compression plug/top cap doesn't fall flush with the stem and still sticks out by about 2 mm.
In my minds eye I think I have three options:
1. Try and cut the fork another 2 mm. A bit of a pain in the ass as that's a pretty tiny amount to take off. Could be done though I suppose.
2. Stick another two mm. spacer UNDER the stem. I would then have 32 mm of spacer which exceeds recommendation by two mm. I'm not sure how truly critical that would be.
3. Replace one of the ten mm. spacers that is currently under the stem with a stack that is less than ten which would leave the steerer tube slightly above the stem, and then compensate by using one properly sized spacer above the stem as they say can be done in the instructions. This option of course would lower my stem a few mm. Overall.
Not sure which option is best.
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Agreed. But that's only if there is some steerer there to put the spacer on to support it. Currently as cut and configured my steerer is below the top of my stem ( although apparently not quite low enough for the compression plug/ top cap to bottom out and lie flush. I could get some steerer to stick out but would have to change my stack of spacer underneath the stem to do that as per my option 3 in my previous post.
#15
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I think you are unclear as to what the setup needs to be. When you have the spacers, stem and compression plug installed, the top of the compression plug should lie 2-3 mm below the top of then stem. This is so when you tighten the top cap it pulls the fork up to apply preload. Your compression plug should not be flush with the top of the stem. If it's sticking 2mm above the stem, and you don't want to recut the fork, stick a 5mm spacer above the stem and put on the top cap. This is not the recommended setup by Ritchey (I asked them about this specific fork as I own a Road Logic), but will work.
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Agreed. But for the compression plug to be seated in the right spot ideally the top cap should be flush with the top of the stem. At the moment it can't get there because the whole assembly butts up against the top of the steerer tube that was left a little too long and the top cap can't get flush
#17
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Agreed. But for the compression plug to be seated in the right spot ideally the top cap should be flush with the top of the stem. At the moment it can't get there because the whole assembly butts up against the top of the steerer tube that was left a little too long and the top cap can't get flush
Earlier your said that the top of the compression plug sticks out above the stem 2mm. Now you seem to be suggesting it's below the stem, but not far enough.
If the top cap cannot be screwed down enough to end up flush with the top of the stem, and then screwed down some more (as the cap will draw the whole fork up towards it, this is the point of the top cap, it's not just decoration), your fork steerer needs to be cut some more. If it's long enough that the top of the compression plug lies above the stem, you could get away with sticking extra 5mm spacer above the stem.
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When dropped in the top cap lies about 2 mm above the top of the stem and is not flush with the stem and that thin black metal plate at the top portion of the compression plug is therefore about even with the top of the stem, possibly a millimeter below the top.
#22
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OK, the important thing to remember is that if the top cap touches the top of the compression plug, you've failed. The top cap is there to provide preload on the headset bearings.
For those who are not familiar with the Road Logic fork setup: It's an all-carbon steerer with a compression plug that has a top that lips over the top of the cut steerer, the same diameter as the steerer. For this reason, clamping down on the stem will not crush the steerer tube, as it's supported by the compression plug, this is why the traditional spacer above the stem is not required for this setup. The compression plug looks like this:
For those who are not familiar with the Road Logic fork setup: It's an all-carbon steerer with a compression plug that has a top that lips over the top of the cut steerer, the same diameter as the steerer. For this reason, clamping down on the stem will not crush the steerer tube, as it's supported by the compression plug, this is why the traditional spacer above the stem is not required for this setup. The compression plug looks like this:
#23
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Nashbar Steerer Tube Cutting Guide
Using this tool I was able to cut 1mm off my fork, after my first cut left the tube slightly too long.
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If this is true then putting a 5mm above the stem won't work, you'll likely need to cut another 3-4mm off. With the right tool it's easy, I use a Nashbar fork guide which costs about $15, minus whatever Nashbar have off for the day (25% today apparently).
Nashbar Steerer Tube Cutting Guide
Using this tool I was able to cut 1mm off my fork, after my first cut left the tube slightly too long.
Nashbar Steerer Tube Cutting Guide
Using this tool I was able to cut 1mm off my fork, after my first cut left the tube slightly too long.
Let me see if I understand then fully. I cut the fork another mm or two. I then drop in the Compression plug which as you say automatically falls flush with the steerer tube as designed and tighten that. Then I drop in the top cap and turn until just tight enough to preload the bearings while allowing the wheel to turn without binding. Sound good ?
#25
Senior Member
Thanks Dr. I have the Park Tool cutting guide and it worked well to cut the tube nice the first time ( although I apparently failed a bit in the measurement myself ). I think my best bet is to use it again to cut another millimeter or two from the fork and then all should be well and as designed and recommended.
Let me see if I understand then fully. I cut the fork another mm or two. I then drop in the Compression plug which as you say automatically falls flush with the steerer tube as designed and tighten that. Then I drop in the top cap and turn until just tight enough to preload the bearings while allowing the wheel to turn without binding. Sound good ?
Let me see if I understand then fully. I cut the fork another mm or two. I then drop in the Compression plug which as you say automatically falls flush with the steerer tube as designed and tighten that. Then I drop in the top cap and turn until just tight enough to preload the bearings while allowing the wheel to turn without binding. Sound good ?