New to me Hybrid equipement questions
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New to me Hybrid equipement questions
I am getting back into biking and just picked up a 2nd hand Giant Escape 1. The bike has stock 700x32 tires, with max pressure of 65 psi. I'm a big guy, and from the light research I've done, I'm not sure that will be enough pressure to keep me mobile. Should I go up to 700x37s?
The bike has a broken pedal, so are there any recommendations for pedals? Finally, the brakes pads squeal something horribly when applied. Is this just a matter of them being old, and hard?
The bike has a broken pedal, so are there any recommendations for pedals? Finally, the brakes pads squeal something horribly when applied. Is this just a matter of them being old, and hard?
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Visit a local bike shop and see what they have.
Tires for me would be 700 X 28's
Tires for me would be 700 X 28's
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Fred "The Real Fred"
Fred "The Real Fred"
#3
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I am getting back into biking and just picked up a 2nd hand Giant Escape 1. The bike has stock 700x32 tires, with max pressure of 65 psi. I'm a big guy, and from the light research I've done, I'm not sure that will be enough pressure to keep me mobile. Should I go up to 700x37s?
The bike has a broken pedal, so are there any recommendations for pedals? Finally, the brakes pads squeal something horribly when applied. Is this just a matter of them being old, and hard?
The bike has a broken pedal, so are there any recommendations for pedals? Finally, the brakes pads squeal something horribly when applied. Is this just a matter of them being old, and hard?
For pedals if you want to use platform (i.e. non-clipless) these are good, strong and cheap.
https://www.amazon.com/XLC-2501811000...rds=xlc+pedals
Squeal in brake pads, new pads may fix it, but try cleaning the rims and pads first, unless the pads are obviously in need of replacement.
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If you don't mind exactly how big are you? I'm about 370lbs and I had no problem running 32c tires around 60-70 psi. That said I have since switched to 40c tires which allows me to run slightly lower pressure. The main point of tire pressure is to prevent against pinch flats which occurs when your inner tube gets pinched between the ground and your rim. You can continue using your current tires at max psi. I wouldn't get bigger tires unless you were planning on riding off-road or you wanted to run lower pressures.
Pedals: Any set of pedals that's not plastic will work fine, but I don't have any specific recommendations. Also the brakes are tough so check with your local bike shop to see if they can tune it.
Pedals: Any set of pedals that's not plastic will work fine, but I don't have any specific recommendations. Also the brakes are tough so check with your local bike shop to see if they can tune it.
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If you don't mind exactly how big are you? I'm about 370lbs and I had no problem running 32c tires around 60-70 psi. That said I have since switched to 40c tires which allows me to run slightly lower pressure. The main point of tire pressure is to prevent against pinch flats which occurs when your inner tube gets pinched between the ground and your rim. You can continue using your current tires at max psi. I wouldn't get bigger tires unless you were planning on riding off-road or you wanted to run lower pressures.
Pedals: Any set of pedals that's not plastic will work fine, but I don't have any specific recommendations. Also the brakes are tough so check with your local bike shop to see if they can tune it.
Pedals: Any set of pedals that's not plastic will work fine, but I don't have any specific recommendations. Also the brakes are tough so check with your local bike shop to see if they can tune it.
You and I are about the same size. I boosted the rear tire pressure up to 62# from what it had been at(45#), I can go higher. Even if the pedal wasn't broken, I'm certain they need replacing. I spun the unbroken one, and I could feel the bearings binding. Plus, they are plastic.
All this is stuff I can do, as I grew up riding bikes. It's been a while though.........................................................................a looooong while.
Last edited by Sailormilan2; 05-22-16 at 12:28 PM.
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I like to use MKS pedals https://smile.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...s+%2Caps%2C263 but I have small feet.
If you have large feet something like these might suit you better: Amazon.com : MEETLOCKS® Bike Pedals, Light & Strong Magnesium Alloy Body, Cr-Mo CNC Machined 9/16" Screw thread Spindle, Real Three Pcs Ultra DU/Sealed bearings MTB Pedals. : Sports & Outdoors
If you have large feet something like these might suit you better: Amazon.com : MEETLOCKS® Bike Pedals, Light & Strong Magnesium Alloy Body, Cr-Mo CNC Machined 9/16" Screw thread Spindle, Real Three Pcs Ultra DU/Sealed bearings MTB Pedals. : Sports & Outdoors
#8
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Welcome back to cycling!
I'd be unsurprised if the 32s ran OK at the max pressure for you. The most significant risk is pinch flats--if you start getting them, then yeah, wider tires. You're probably going to get the best performance and the smoothest ride running the widest tires your frame has clearance or or you can reasonably source. But if money's at all an issue, I might just run them until its clear they're a problem.
As for the brake pads, correct setup can help a lot. Pick out any debris in the pads, and lightly sand them to refresh the pad surface. Clean the rims with a scotchbrite and some isopropanol (or soap and water with a good rinse). Linear Pull Brake Service | Park Tool are good instructions--good toe in could help. If the pads still aren't working well, consider upgrading them. The most common recommendation would be for Kool Stop Salmon pads.
MKS is a good suggestion for pedals. But yeah, good metal with a wider surface area (often bmx and mtb pedals) and good grip are probably what you want.
A good thing to keep an eye on if you are heavier than the average rider is the wheels of you bicycle. This also depends vastly on how you ride--if you take up bumps with your arms and legs or not. Check periodically for uneven spoke tension (you can do a rough job by comparing the relative pitches of plucked spokes on the same side of a wheel), or cracking around the nipples. If you notice dramatically uneven spoke tension, cracks around the nipples, or broken spokes, it would be best to invest in better wheels. There are lots of threads on the subject in the Clydesdale forum, but basically you'd want the most spokes you can get (commonly 36h, maybe more), double butted spokes (unintuitively, they flex in a less fatigued zone of the spoke than a straight gauge spoke), and possibly a hand build to guarantee the highest reasonable spoke tension, very even spoke tension, and proper stress relief of the spokes.
I'd be unsurprised if the 32s ran OK at the max pressure for you. The most significant risk is pinch flats--if you start getting them, then yeah, wider tires. You're probably going to get the best performance and the smoothest ride running the widest tires your frame has clearance or or you can reasonably source. But if money's at all an issue, I might just run them until its clear they're a problem.
As for the brake pads, correct setup can help a lot. Pick out any debris in the pads, and lightly sand them to refresh the pad surface. Clean the rims with a scotchbrite and some isopropanol (or soap and water with a good rinse). Linear Pull Brake Service | Park Tool are good instructions--good toe in could help. If the pads still aren't working well, consider upgrading them. The most common recommendation would be for Kool Stop Salmon pads.
MKS is a good suggestion for pedals. But yeah, good metal with a wider surface area (often bmx and mtb pedals) and good grip are probably what you want.
A good thing to keep an eye on if you are heavier than the average rider is the wheels of you bicycle. This also depends vastly on how you ride--if you take up bumps with your arms and legs or not. Check periodically for uneven spoke tension (you can do a rough job by comparing the relative pitches of plucked spokes on the same side of a wheel), or cracking around the nipples. If you notice dramatically uneven spoke tension, cracks around the nipples, or broken spokes, it would be best to invest in better wheels. There are lots of threads on the subject in the Clydesdale forum, but basically you'd want the most spokes you can get (commonly 36h, maybe more), double butted spokes (unintuitively, they flex in a less fatigued zone of the spoke than a straight gauge spoke), and possibly a hand build to guarantee the highest reasonable spoke tension, very even spoke tension, and proper stress relief of the spokes.
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Update:
The first short ride, while successful in that I didn't crash, was a bit of a disaster. A combination of low tire pressure and worn pedals made it difficult. I ended up with a knot in a side muscle that took a week to go away.
Today, I just finished my second ride, taking the same route, with much better success. New Meetlock pedals, proper tire pressure, so the ride was much better.
Now, for local neighborhood rides until I can get a bike rack ordered for my truck so I can get to the City's bike path.
The first short ride, while successful in that I didn't crash, was a bit of a disaster. A combination of low tire pressure and worn pedals made it difficult. I ended up with a knot in a side muscle that took a week to go away.
Today, I just finished my second ride, taking the same route, with much better success. New Meetlock pedals, proper tire pressure, so the ride was much better.
Now, for local neighborhood rides until I can get a bike rack ordered for my truck so I can get to the City's bike path.
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