Did I install it wrong?
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Did I install it wrong?
Is it too long? It rides fine, but it looks like it may be too long.. Hope I dont need to get a new chain
BTW do you oil a brand new chain or just keep it as is with factory lube it already has on it?
BTW do you oil a brand new chain or just keep it as is with factory lube it already has on it?
Last edited by itsonlysmellz; 05-28-16 at 02:59 PM. Reason: gre
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That looks a little long but you probably should post a pic in the largest gear as well.
If you just put on a new chain, the easiest thing to do is count links in the old chain and use the same number for new.
If you just put on a new chain, the easiest thing to do is count links in the old chain and use the same number for new.
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I used a chain which uses the snap off pin, im under the impression this chain is set as it is and If it is too long id need to buy a new chain to make it shorter, is this correct?
Would there be issues if I used it as this now?
Would there be issues if I used it as this now?
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If it's too long you still should be able to shorten it. Did you get an extra pin or two with the chain? If not they sell them at LBS or online sources.
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Take a photo with the chain on the largest front and largest rear (cross-chained)
And a photo with the chain on the smallest front and smallest rear (cross-chained).
My guess is the chain will be hanging loose on the small-small combo.
Did you use a "quick link" when installing the chain? If yes, then just split the quick link, cut off a few more links, and put it back together.
If no. What is that, 8s? You can usually push out a pin about 90% of the way, split the chain, join, and push the pin back in. If you used a "link pin", don't re-use that one.
As far as lubing, I usually wait a couple hundred miles, or until the first good rain storm.
And a photo with the chain on the smallest front and smallest rear (cross-chained).
My guess is the chain will be hanging loose on the small-small combo.
Did you use a "quick link" when installing the chain? If yes, then just split the quick link, cut off a few more links, and put it back together.
If no. What is that, 8s? You can usually push out a pin about 90% of the way, split the chain, join, and push the pin back in. If you used a "link pin", don't re-use that one.
As far as lubing, I usually wait a couple hundred miles, or until the first good rain storm.
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Chain manufacturers don't know what kind of bike you intend to put it on. New chains come too long for most bikes so you have to shorten them to suit your bike. Unfortunately, I think that your chain is a little too long. If it was my bike, here's what I would do.
1. If you don't have a spare joining pin, buy one at your LBS. They come in sizes that correspond to the number of rear cogs on your bike so be sure to get the right one.
2. Using a chain tool, break your brand new chain.
3. I size chains using the big/big method. Wrap your chain around the biggest front chainring and the biggest rear cog bypassing the derailleur. Figure out the shortest place that you could rejoin the chain. Add 1" (2 links) of chain to that.
4. Cut off the excess chain, and run it through your rear derailleur. Be careful of the little tabs on the derailleur arm before rejoining the chain.
People have differing opinions about cleaning and/or lubeing a new chain. I personally do neither. I install them just as they come and go riding.
1. If you don't have a spare joining pin, buy one at your LBS. They come in sizes that correspond to the number of rear cogs on your bike so be sure to get the right one.
2. Using a chain tool, break your brand new chain.
3. I size chains using the big/big method. Wrap your chain around the biggest front chainring and the biggest rear cog bypassing the derailleur. Figure out the shortest place that you could rejoin the chain. Add 1" (2 links) of chain to that.
4. Cut off the excess chain, and run it through your rear derailleur. Be careful of the little tabs on the derailleur arm before rejoining the chain.
People have differing opinions about cleaning and/or lubeing a new chain. I personally do neither. I install them just as they come and go riding.
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Quick links makes cleaning the chain much easier.
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Just buy a breakable link, break the chain, remove the correct number of links, and install the link. No big deal.
And ride it with the factory lube, it can actually last a while if it stays dry. When I didn't ride in the rain, I had the factory lube on a KMC and a Wipperan chain last 70 miles.
And ride it with the factory lube, it can actually last a while if it stays dry. When I didn't ride in the rain, I had the factory lube on a KMC and a Wipperan chain last 70 miles.
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As mentioned, it's too long. A little bit too long is ok, but if you shift to small-small, there's probably too much chain slack for the rear derailleur to handle, so it may sag, and might rub against part of the derailleur cage.
In big-big your derailleur cage will be a lot more forward, with the 2 pulleys about 45 degrees to the ground.
In big-big your derailleur cage will be a lot more forward, with the 2 pulleys about 45 degrees to the ground.
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You can buy another one of those pins, specific for your chain. They aren't too expensive, and cheaper than a new chain. Buy a couple to have extras.
I've been running 9s chains without those special pins without problems.
I wouldn't do an 11s chain without one of those pins though. The pins don't stick out at all.
I've been running 9s chains without those special pins without problems.
I wouldn't do an 11s chain without one of those pins though. The pins don't stick out at all.
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I have a couple nails next to each other in the wall of my shop. Hang the old chain on one, the new chain on the other, and it's easy to match lengths.
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I suspect he's referring to the special pins for Shimano chains:
Chain Installation?Derailleur Bikes | Park Tool
No, but if you initially trim it too short it can be a pain adding links unless you use multiple connecting links.
Chain Installation?Derailleur Bikes | Park Tool
Are there chains that you cannot adjust the length?
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Just use one of these and be done with it. Messing around with pins is so 1990.
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One of these
and one of these
and life will be good. Just measure your chain against the old chain or you can measure the chain in the big ring/big sprocket combination plus a few links. It's easier to make it shorter than longer, so if you're not sure where to break, go long and give it a trial fitting. Even if you accidentally get it too short, keep the extra links and you can add one with a second quick link. It will be evidence of your mistake until your next chain but will work just fine. Ignore anyone who says you can't use two quick links to lengthen a chain. I've never had one fail so why would a second one in the same chain make any difference?
and one of these
and life will be good. Just measure your chain against the old chain or you can measure the chain in the big ring/big sprocket combination plus a few links. It's easier to make it shorter than longer, so if you're not sure where to break, go long and give it a trial fitting. Even if you accidentally get it too short, keep the extra links and you can add one with a second quick link. It will be evidence of your mistake until your next chain but will work just fine. Ignore anyone who says you can't use two quick links to lengthen a chain. I've never had one fail so why would a second one in the same chain make any difference?
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You can ride with the oil that came on the chain, but you need to remove the oil that is on the outside of the chain, because oil that is on the outside of the chain doesn't do anything to lubricate the chain, and it attracts dirt, which will wear out your cogs and chainrings faster than normal.
Get a chain tool like the Park Tool CT-3.2, don't waste your money on the Park Tool CT-5 mini-tool which doesn't have enough leverage (handle too shirt) to break modern chains.
The replacement pin that Shimano supplies with chains is oversized, and you aren't supposed push a replacement pin out and reuse it, because when you force it into place, it makes an oversized hole in the chain plates to lock it in place, and if you push it in and out, the 2nd time, the pin with not hold as tight.
I recommend using a reusable Link from KMC or SRAM. When you shorten the chain, I would break the chain on one side of the factory pin you installed, and make the other break to shorten the chain on the opposite side of the factory pin so you eliminate the links that were altered by the installation of the factory pin from the chain.
Get a chain tool like the Park Tool CT-3.2, don't waste your money on the Park Tool CT-5 mini-tool which doesn't have enough leverage (handle too shirt) to break modern chains.
The replacement pin that Shimano supplies with chains is oversized, and you aren't supposed push a replacement pin out and reuse it, because when you force it into place, it makes an oversized hole in the chain plates to lock it in place, and if you push it in and out, the 2nd time, the pin with not hold as tight.
I recommend using a reusable Link from KMC or SRAM. When you shorten the chain, I would break the chain on one side of the factory pin you installed, and make the other break to shorten the chain on the opposite side of the factory pin so you eliminate the links that were altered by the installation of the factory pin from the chain.