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RD collides with cassette.

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Old 07-05-16, 10:23 AM
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RD collides with cassette.

I am rebuilding a mid 80s Schwinn High Sierra mountain bike. I am setting up the RD and I am having it collide with the cogs on the rear wheel. I have changed nothing about the bike except the shifters. Why would there not be enough clearance now between the cogs and the RD?

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Last edited by Thumpic; 07-05-16 at 10:27 AM.
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Old 07-05-16, 10:43 AM
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Check the B-screw adjustment.
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Old 07-05-16, 10:46 AM
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Parktool on B screw: Rear Derailleur Adjustment | Park Tool
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Old 07-05-16, 11:14 AM
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Did you really change only the shifters? If it cleared before and doesn't now something else has changed. Chain length? Cassette? Cable slack?

As noted, the B-screw is the probable fix.
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Old 07-05-16, 11:24 AM
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Everybody already said B-screw, that is the specific means for adjusting RD/cassette clearance. No idea why it might have cleared before but be hitting now.

If screwing in your B-screw all the way is not sufficient, take it out, go to any hardware store, and buy another longer bolt with the same threading.
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Old 07-05-16, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by RubeRad
Everybody already said B-screw, that is the specific means for adjusting RD/cassette clearance. No idea why it might have cleared before but be hitting now.

If screwing in your B-screw all the way is not sufficient, take it out, go to any hardware store, and buy another longer bolt with the same threading.
I didn't remove the B screw during cleaning so I wanted to check to see if anyone else had this problem and it was not a B screw adjustment issue. I think the spring inside the RD may be shot. Trying a longer screw next.
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Old 07-05-16, 11:56 AM
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I don't think so -- if the spring were shot, the RD would sag downwards away from the cassette. If it's pushing up, then you've got a spring working against gravity.
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Old 07-05-16, 01:38 PM
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If you changed the shifters, did you mess with the cable? The rear housing loop acts like a spring that increases the force of the B-knuckle spring. If for some reason you removed the wheel, that could also be an issue since horizontal dropouts are used to adjust the gap as well.

Edit: Wrote A instead of B. Learn the difference, it could save your life.

Last edited by 2lo8; 07-07-16 at 11:27 AM.
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Old 07-05-16, 01:46 PM
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rear housing loop as add'l spring, I like that hypothesis.
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Old 07-05-16, 01:51 PM
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Is the chain sized correctly? It looks like it might be longish?
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Old 07-05-16, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Thumpic
I am rebuilding a mid 80s Schwinn High Sierra mountain bike. I am setting up the RD and I am having it collide with the cogs on the rear wheel. I have changed nothing about the bike except the shifters. Why would there not be enough clearance now between the cogs and the RD?

Parker Anderson......from my phone
Looks like you're in the big big combination. If so your chain is a couple of links too long. A shorter chain will pull the derailleur down more when you shift to lower gears. (Easier)
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Old 07-05-16, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by HillRider
Did you really change only the shifters? If it cleared before and doesn't now something else has changed. Chain length? Cassette? Cable slack?

As noted, the B-screw is the probable fix.
It's hard to count exactly but that looks like a 32T big cog; I don't think it is original to a bike from the '80s. Not sure of the specs of your rear derailleur but it might not clear a cog that big.
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Old 07-05-16, 06:06 PM
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It's hard to tell from the blurry pics but the B-screw looks bent, like the derailleur was installed without cocking the derailleur so the B-screw didn't clear the hanger.
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Old 07-07-16, 06:50 AM
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Shortened housing....swapped to smaller cassette...voila!

Last edited by Thumpic; 07-07-16 at 06:53 AM.
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