RD collides with cassette.
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: The Sunny South
Posts: 1,906
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 29 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
2 Posts
RD collides with cassette.
I am rebuilding a mid 80s Schwinn High Sierra mountain bike. I am setting up the RD and I am having it collide with the cogs on the rear wheel. I have changed nothing about the bike except the shifters. Why would there not be enough clearance now between the cogs and the RD?
Parker Anderson......from my phone
Parker Anderson......from my phone
Last edited by Thumpic; 07-05-16 at 10:27 AM.
#2
working on my sandal tan
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CID
Posts: 22,629
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
Mentioned: 98 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3871 Post(s)
Liked 2,568 Times
in
1,579 Posts
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Mountain Brook. AL
Posts: 4,002
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 303 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 136 Times
in
104 Posts
Parktool on B screw: Rear Derailleur Adjustment | Park Tool
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times
in
742 Posts
Did you really change only the shifters? If it cleared before and doesn't now something else has changed. Chain length? Cassette? Cable slack?
As noted, the B-screw is the probable fix.
As noted, the B-screw is the probable fix.
#5
Keepin it Wheel
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 10,245
Bikes: Surly CrossCheck, Krampus
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked 3,426 Times
in
2,533 Posts
Everybody already said B-screw, that is the specific means for adjusting RD/cassette clearance. No idea why it might have cleared before but be hitting now.
If screwing in your B-screw all the way is not sufficient, take it out, go to any hardware store, and buy another longer bolt with the same threading.
If screwing in your B-screw all the way is not sufficient, take it out, go to any hardware store, and buy another longer bolt with the same threading.
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: The Sunny South
Posts: 1,906
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 29 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
2 Posts
Everybody already said B-screw, that is the specific means for adjusting RD/cassette clearance. No idea why it might have cleared before but be hitting now.
If screwing in your B-screw all the way is not sufficient, take it out, go to any hardware store, and buy another longer bolt with the same threading.
If screwing in your B-screw all the way is not sufficient, take it out, go to any hardware store, and buy another longer bolt with the same threading.
#7
Keepin it Wheel
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 10,245
Bikes: Surly CrossCheck, Krampus
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked 3,426 Times
in
2,533 Posts
I don't think so -- if the spring were shot, the RD would sag downwards away from the cassette. If it's pushing up, then you've got a spring working against gravity.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 625
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 252 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
If you changed the shifters, did you mess with the cable? The rear housing loop acts like a spring that increases the force of the B-knuckle spring. If for some reason you removed the wheel, that could also be an issue since horizontal dropouts are used to adjust the gap as well.
Edit: Wrote A instead of B. Learn the difference, it could save your life.
Edit: Wrote A instead of B. Learn the difference, it could save your life.
Last edited by 2lo8; 07-07-16 at 11:27 AM.
#9
Keepin it Wheel
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 10,245
Bikes: Surly CrossCheck, Krampus
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked 3,426 Times
in
2,533 Posts
rear housing loop as add'l spring, I like that hypothesis.
#10
Really Old Senior Member
Is the chain sized correctly? It looks like it might be longish?
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Bozeman
Posts: 4,094
Bikes: 199? Landshark Roadshark, 198? Mondonico Diamond, 1987 Panasonic DX-5000, 1987 Bianchi Limited, Univega... Chrome..., 1989 Schwinn Woodlands, Motobecane USA Record, Raleigh Tokul 2
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1131 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I am rebuilding a mid 80s Schwinn High Sierra mountain bike. I am setting up the RD and I am having it collide with the cogs on the rear wheel. I have changed nothing about the bike except the shifters. Why would there not be enough clearance now between the cogs and the RD?
Parker Anderson......from my phone
Parker Anderson......from my phone
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Roswell, GA
Posts: 8,319
Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1438 Post(s)
Liked 1,092 Times
in
723 Posts
It's hard to count exactly but that looks like a 32T big cog; I don't think it is original to a bike from the '80s. Not sure of the specs of your rear derailleur but it might not clear a cog that big.
#13
Licensed Bike Geek
It's hard to tell from the blurry pics but the B-screw looks bent, like the derailleur was installed without cocking the derailleur so the B-screw didn't clear the hanger.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jakedatc
Bicycle Mechanics
7
08-01-15 10:40 AM