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  1. #1
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    Changing Chain and cassette. How often?

    Hello again!

    I use my bike -Raleigh M20- mostly to commute (city). That means 400 miles per month (average). I clean the chain once a month.

    1) How often should I change the chain and rear cassette?
    2) Is it recommended to change both of them together?

    Any recommendation will be welcome. Thanks in advance.

    German.-

  2. #2
    cab horn
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    If you change your chain frequently enough not to wear the casette, you shouldn't need to change the cassette.

    That being said if your chain starts slipping, time for a new chain+cassette.

  3. #3
    Senior Member sydney's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by glore2002
    Hello again!

    I use my bike -Raleigh M20- mostly to commute (city). That means 400 miles per month (average). I clean the chain once a month.

    1) How often should I change the chain and rear cassette?
    2) Is it recommended to change both of them together?

    Any recommendation will be welcome. Thanks in advance.

    German.-
    A foot new chain mesures exactly 12" c-c of pins. Replace when a tensioned chain measures 121/16" and the cassette will last thru many chains. Wait till it mesuers 121/8" and you will likely need a new cassette too. A new chain will skip on a badly worn cassette.

  4. #4
    Über member! sorebutt's Avatar
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    The cassette should last you many many chains. The chain wear depends on how heavy you are, how much climbing you do, how clean is your chain, how well lubricated it is. As they say, "your mileage will vary".. I was told that my chain will last me 1000 miles. I check it every so often and it is still good at 2000 miles. Since I know I am heavy, so I must assume that I keep it clean and lubricated, or I should start climbing more..
    "With a bent derailleur, shift happens"...

    ~~~~- My Mellow-Yellow-Velo -~~~~

  5. #5
    Senior Member sydney's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sorebutt
    I was told that my chain will last me 1000 miles.
    Nose pickers that tell you that nonsense are at least smart enough know they want to sell you lots of chains and cassettes.Didn't they also tell you they 'wear together,and have to be changed together' ?

  6. #6
    Aluminium Crusader :-)
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    Quote Originally Posted by sydney
    A foot new chain mesures exactly 12" c-c of pins.
    Replace when a tensioned chain measures 121/16"
    Wait till it mesuers 121/8"........ .
    I don't understand these measurements.
    Can you please explain it for a "backyarder" like me?

  7. #7
    We drive on the left. Dutchy's Avatar
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    300.5mm is the metric length. If the tape measures 302mm it's time for a new chain. Any longer than 302mm and a new cassette might also be needed.

    CHEERS.

    Mark
    I'd rather be riding.

  8. #8
    Aluminium Crusader :-)
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dutchy
    300.5mm is the metric length. If the tape measures 302mm it's time for a new chain. Any longer than 302mm and a new cassette might also be needed.

    CHEERS.

    Mark
    thanks.

    how many links are in 300.5mm?

  9. #9
    Über member! sorebutt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 531Aussie
    thanks.

    how many links are in 300.5mm?

    12






    -
    "With a bent derailleur, shift happens"...

    ~~~~- My Mellow-Yellow-Velo -~~~~

  10. #10
    Aluminium Crusader :-)
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    COOOOOOL...looks like it's "new chain time"

  11. #11
    Senior Member (Retired) gmason's Avatar
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    You can, of course, buy little guages - Rohloff is one example - that make it easy to take the measurement. Online or at an LBS near you.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 531Aussie
    I don't understand these measurements.
    Can you please explain it for a "backyarder" like me?
    I have a doubt with the metric lenght:

    1 Foot = 0.3048 m = 304.8 mm (not 300.5 mm).

    So, the distance should be 300.5 or 304,8 mm ?
    The chain should be replaced when reaching ........... mm.

    Thanks again,
    German.-

  13. #13
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    You need to measure wear on your chain. Align the 1" mark with the middle of one rivet, the 12" mark should fall in the middle of another rivet (exactly). If you have less than 1/16 of margin, you're fine. 1/16" of stretch is when you should change the chain. If your chain stretches to 1/8" longer over 12" or more, you will have to replace the cassette. Otherwise, the cassette should last many chains.

    Usually, a chain will last 3000 to 5000 miles. Road chains tend to last longer.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by ivan_yulaev
    You need to measure wear on your chain. Align the 1" mark with the middle of one rivet, the 12" mark should fall in the middle of another rivet (exactly). If you have less than 1/16 of margin, you're fine. 1/16" of stretch is when you should change the chain. If your chain stretches to 1/8" longer over 12" or more, you will have to replace the cassette. Otherwise, the cassette should last many chains...
    Actually, you'll need to align the 0" mark with the middle of one rivet, and the 12" mark should fall in the middle of another rivet. If you use the 1" mark, you'll only be measuring stretch across 11" on your ruler, and so you will not accurately detect 1/16" of stretch (in 12") until it's gone too far. In other words, measuring from 1" to 12" on your ruler will fool you into thinking the chain is fine, when in fact it could be stretched too much.

  15. #15
    semifreddo amartuerer 'nother's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ispoke
    Actually, you'll need to align the 0" mark with the middle of one rivet, and the 12" mark should fall in the middle of another rivet. If you use the 1" mark, you'll only be measuring stretch across 11" on your ruler, and so you will not accurately detect 1/16" of stretch (in 12") until it's gone too far. In other words, measuring from 1" to 12" on your ruler will fool you into thinking the chain is fine, when in fact it could be stretched too much.
    Actually if the end of your measuring device is the 0" mark, it is probably better to measure from the 1" mark to the 13" mark. The 0"/butt end can become damaged, thus giving misleading results, sometimes considerably. But indeed, your main point is correct; you want to measure over the full 12", not 11".

  16. #16
    Aluminium Crusader :-)
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    Quote Originally Posted by 531Aussie
    COOOOOOL...looks like it's "new chain time"
    so, after all these years, that's the first time I've swapped a chain without buying a new cassette -- and it worked!!

    Looks like I've been BSd by bike shops for the last 18 years; I thought the chain swapping thing was a myth, because the bike shp guys always said: "na, mate, it won't work; you better buy a new cluster, too"

  17. #17
    jur
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    I have just last weekend replaced both my bikes' chains and both are skipping on the smallest 11T cog. They were worn to about 1/16th inch mark. Despite effort to discover wear on these cogs by comparing to new cogs side by side and front-to-back, I see nothing. I seemingly don't know what to look for or it requires a micrometer. Putting in a new cassette on the one bike stopped the skipping. So there is something in that advice. A new chain will engage only 1 tooth of a worn cog firmly (the first or the last one I don't remember which) and tends to ride up the tooth ramp until it skips over to the next.

  18. #18
    LF for the accentdeprived
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    Quote Originally Posted by 531Aussie
    Looks like I've been BSd by bike shops for the last 18 years; I thought the chain swapping thing was a myth, because the bike shp guys always said: "na, mate, it won't work; you better buy a new cluster, too"
    If I were you, I'd not deal with those shops in the future...

  19. #19
    Aluminium Crusader :-)
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    good idea

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