Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Changing chainrings - what should I be aware of?

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Changing chainrings - what should I be aware of?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-12-16, 02:16 PM
  #1  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 197

Bikes: 1975 Raleigh Sports, Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier, Yuba Mundo, Raleigh Sports (1970)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 10 Times in 4 Posts
Changing chainrings - what should I be aware of?

My road bike is a 1990 Schwinn World Sport. Like a lot of the bikes of that era, the front gearing is 52/42. The rear is a Shimano 7 speed 12-28 cassette. I use the bike for light touring/randonneuring: 50 to 100 miles at an average moving speed of 14 mph or so (speed on a flat open road 16-20 mph). What I am finding is that the lowest gear 42-28 is simply not low enough for the hilly countryside that I want to ride in. When I get into any significant or sustained climbs, I run out of gears fast and I end up mashing the 42-28, which is probably not good for my knees. And once the grade gets above 10% or so, I have to just get off and walk the bike, which can be quite time-consuming.

So, my idea was to change the front chainrings, as the least expensive way of getting lower gears. It is a 110mm BCD spider, and I have ordered a 34t Sugino ring (the smallest possible for 110 BCD). My thought was to remove the 52t outer ring, move the 42t inner ring to the outer position, and put the new 34t in as the inner ring.

I understand the front derailleur will need to be moved down the seat tube to fit the new smaller outer ring. I'm putting a new chain on as well, which I understand will be shorter than the old chain. Is there anything else I should be aware of before I start this project? Does the size/shape of the derailleur cage present any issues?

The other possibility I considered is just swapping the 42 for the 34, but would 52/34 be too big a jump for the derailleur to handle smoothly? I'm considering that because I'm wondering if 42 is too small for the big ring. I certainly do use the 52t ring when I'm on an uninterrupted flat road, or when pedaling downhill, but I looked at a gear calculator and it looks like 42t still provides a top speed of 25 mph at 90 rpm, which is way faster than I ever go on the flats anyway. So maybe 42/34 would be just fine for my needs?

Regarding other suggestions like getting a triple crankset, etc., please understand I'm looking for the most affordable way to improve this bike for my purposes. If I was looking to sink a significant amount of money into this, I would most likely be buying a new randonneuring-specific bicycle, or at least I would be modifying a higher-end vintage frame that was designed as a light touring bike from the start.

Thanks!

Last edited by Chesterton; 09-12-16 at 03:15 PM.
Chesterton is offline  
Old 09-12-16, 02:35 PM
  #2  
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,598

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7607 Post(s)
Liked 1,355 Times in 862 Posts
If you perform the Up Shift from the 34 to the 52 only when at the crest of the hill , so,

You take all tension off the chain and then you should be able to shift up to that big ring
with (a friction shift lever with) out resistance.. long cage MTB type takes up extra chain slack..

50-34 combinations are very common now ..





./.

Last edited by fietsbob; 09-12-16 at 02:38 PM.
fietsbob is offline  
Old 09-12-16, 02:51 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
Retro Grouch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Posts: 30,225

Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.

Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1572 Post(s)
Liked 643 Times in 364 Posts
You know, you can get a hill climb gear almost as low by replacing your freewheel with a Shimano mega range freewheel with a 34 tooth biggest gear. You'll also need to install a new longer chain.
__________________
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
Retro Grouch is offline  
Old 09-12-16, 03:29 PM
  #4  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 197

Bikes: 1975 Raleigh Sports, Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier, Yuba Mundo, Raleigh Sports (1970)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 10 Times in 4 Posts
Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
You know, you can get a hill climb gear almost as low by replacing your freewheel with a Shimano mega range freewheel with a 34 tooth biggest gear. You'll also need to install a new longer chain.
It's a freehub cassette, not a freewheel. I have that megarange freewheel on my cargo bike, though - it is nice.
Chesterton is offline  
Old 09-13-16, 10:08 AM
  #5  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 197

Bikes: 1975 Raleigh Sports, Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier, Yuba Mundo, Raleigh Sports (1970)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 10 Times in 4 Posts
Having read about this a little bit more, maybe the existing front derailleur would be able to handle 52/34 better than 42/34? 52/34 is close to a standard modern compact double. But is that too big a jump? Or am I likely to need a new front derailleur in order to handle the 34t inner ring, regardless of what size the outer is?
Chesterton is offline  
Old 09-13-16, 10:15 AM
  #6  
Senior Member
 
andr0id's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,522
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1422 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times in 5 Posts
Originally Posted by Chesterton
The other possibility I considered is just swapping the 42 for the 34, but would 52/34 be too big a jump for the derailleur to handle smoothly?
I think your first plan is better. Even modern compact cranks only support 16 tooth difference of 34/50. I doubt you will get any joy trying to get a 1990 FD to make that shift.

Also, the new big/outer rings have a lot of metal bits and grooves to help the chain up. Your current 52 is smooth on the inside.

You could *try* a new 48 or 50 outer ring, but big rings are more expensive, so it depends how much $$$ you want to throw at it.
andr0id is offline  
Old 09-13-16, 10:27 AM
  #7  
working on my sandal tan
 
ThermionicScott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CID
Posts: 22,629

Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)

Mentioned: 98 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3871 Post(s)
Liked 2,568 Times in 1,579 Posts
Originally Posted by Chesterton
It's a freehub cassette, not a freewheel. I have that megarange freewheel on my cargo bike, though - it is nice.
13-34 cassettes are available, too.
__________________
Originally Posted by chandltp
There's no such thing as too far.. just lack of time
Originally Posted by noglider
People in this forum are not typical.
RUSA #7498
ThermionicScott is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jambon
Bicycle Mechanics
27
11-23-16 04:44 PM
capnjonny
Bicycle Mechanics
10
04-03-16 06:56 PM
Bikegal123
Bicycle Mechanics
5
03-03-16 08:30 AM
Tekcor1
Bicycle Mechanics
2
06-25-15 10:32 PM
bud16415
Bicycle Mechanics
36
10-17-12 04:22 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.