prairiepedaler

I recently joined a bike Co-Op and have decided to help them out with a few bike restoration projects. They have a Fuji Club there and it has a frozen stem in the fork tube. I haven't begun working on it yet but have an idea as to how and approach it. I would appreciate input from those who've successfully resolved such an issue. It would be worthwhile to save this thing, it's in otherwise nice condition.

fietsbob

'seized stem' https://www.google.com/search?q=seiz...hrome&ie=UTF-8

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prairiepedaler

Thanks bub!

Broctoon

Loosen the quill bolt a lot and then squirt a bunch of PB Blaster down through its hole. Let it soak in for a few minutes. Run the bolt back in until it is 4 or 5 turns from coming tight. Strike the bolt's head sharply several times with a hard rubber mallet. This is usually enough to free up the wedge, which has probably become corroded in place against the bore of the steerer tube and the sloped surface at the bottom of the stem.

grizzly59

Some forks are smaller inside at the lower part of the steerer tube, I've seen it with Tange forks before.. If that's the case, the wedge can be really jammed into the fork by loosening the wedge bolt and pounding it. If the stem will come out leaving the wedge stuck in the fork, take the stem out of the fork, take the fork out of the frame.. Support the top of the fork on a 2x4, and tap the bottom of the wedge using a punch through the bottom of the steer tube. Use a length of wooden dowel as a punch. You need to take the front wheel and front brake off of the fork. Don't hit the fork blades or crown by accident.

prairiepedaler

Thanks for the input fellas. I didn't know there was a taper on that fork tube. I imagine they decided to thicken it up near the crown for extra strength. Will keep you posted and I'll see if I can remember to take the camera when working on it.

davidad

Stuck Handlebar Stem by Jobst Brandt

prairiepedaler

Hi David, yeah i did run across that Brandt solution to the problem. I think sending it out to a machine shop will be a last resort but I will do my best to make sure the work done on it doesn't pooch the frame's viability if the machine shop option is taken.

Phil_gretz

Invert the bike and pour ammonia down the bottom of the fork crown/steerer opening. Keep it filled up for a couple of days.


Straighten it back to upright, drain out the liquid, loosen the stem bolt and give it a whack with a rubber mallet, or with a hammer and a block of soft wood on top of the stem quill. Bam. Once again. Bam. Then put the front wheel between your knees and begin to rotate the handlebars firmly side to side. Once it gives way rotationally, it will yield upward, too. Good luck. PG

prairiepedaler

Hello Phil, thanks for that. The ammonia will go after the aluminum oxide and, in theory, we'd have "voila!" This assumes successful ammonia penetration between surfaces to get to that oxide of course. I'm going to cut the stem off and remove the fork, with a suitable amount of stem remaining to get a wrench onto if need be. I can work with the fork at leisure then. Even bring it in to a machine shop if my attempts flunk. This bike is worth saving and will net the Co-op a decent buck once it's dolled up.

Phil_gretz

Flashing lights and alarms. "Step away from the bike, Sir. Now! Keep your hands up!"


Don't do that. Work with the bike intact. The handlebars and front wheel give you leverage, and the frame gives you suspension points while you work on it otherwise. Don't cut anything unless/until you have exhausted every other method. Trust me on this...

dweenk

^^^ What Phil said. Keep everything intact. Time, persistance, and patience are your friends.

prairiepedaler

Hi Phil, thanks for the input and dire warning. Last time I was in there I did some preliminary work. Someone had taken the stem bolt out already and I determined from underneath that the wedge is free. First, I took a sharpie marker then put a reference line where the stem meets top of the headset to track progress of lifting if any. Then, the large rubber deadblow and a chunk of wood. After putting the bike up in the workstand, removing the wheel and getting the front brake out of the way, I put the wood up against the stem nearest the headset and proceeded to try and drive it up with the hammer. This didn't shift it but then I didn't spend too much time on it either.

Park Tool has a procedure similar to what I intended:

Seized Seatposts and Stems | Park Tool

I was going to make up a jig from 2x4 stock that will c-clamp to the fork crown when the wheel is removed. One piece will go between the legs to take the place of the wheel (as to take the load off the fork blades). Then I'll put on some Chubby Checker and "twist again" so see if some action is possible. I hears ya re: patience. I used to be a technician in another field so I try and use a methodology of work.

I am also not averse to letting chemistry do the work and go for a pint instead. So, I'll give it a whirl.

Update: sealed off the bottom of the fork and the headset, topped it up with ammonia and closed things up. Will check on it in a week or two.

Lakerat

I tried about everything to remove a seized stem. I eventually cut it off and used a hack saw blade to make a slice the length of it, crushed the stub with vise grips and dislodged it with a few hammer blows. You might remove it with some other method that saves the stem, or you might waste a bunch of time and have to cut it any way. If you lived near me I'd cut it out for you, takes about 20 minutes.

prairiepedaler

Thanks Lake, appreciate that offer. I was going to angle grind it off while leaving stem material to work with then jabsaw it into 4 segments but decided hey, why not try out the other ammonia method first. The stem is disposible in this case (i.e. not a Nitto etc). Will take some photos.

Lakerat

You don't have to cut it into 4 segments, one cut will do it.

prairiepedaler

Ok, I reckon it might differ from situation to situation. in this case it may only need one and i'd be completely content with that.

prairiepedaler

Ok, after a week of soaking in Ammonia and then attempting to twist off the stem we were without success. Before we cut the stem off, I attempted one last try to use a chunk of 2x4" with mallet to lift the stem out of the fork but to no avail. I brought the fork home and will attempt to cut it out via the segmenting method. They are keen to put another fork in there and make the bike available to a rider but I am trying to encourage them to keep the bike original. We'll see.

prairiepedaler

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