Issues with Removing Rear SS/FG Wheel
#1
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Issues with Removing Rear SS/FG Wheel
Hello,
I recently got a flat and had an issue when attempting to remove my rear wheel.
I was able to get the drive-side bolt off, but when I tried to remove the non-drive side bolt, the entire axle would turn and the nut wouldn't come off. I then reinstalled the drive-side bolt and tried removing the non-drive side first. It came off. But then I had the same issue when trying to remove the drive-side bolt.
I luckily had some pliers in my backpack and was able to remove the 2nd bolt by holding the axle to stop it from spinning. Not the best for the threads, I know.
When I got home I examined my rear wheel set-up:
- It's a fixed/fixed origin8 bolt-on sealed-bearing hub. I usually have an mks chain tensioner on each side and hold them on with problem-solver axle nuts.
- I thought that maybe since the chain tensioners were not serrated, the surface was too smooth to keep the axle from spinning, but when I removed them and reinstalled the wheel, I had the same problem.
- Even went so far as to back out the spacers so that the locknuts pressed more into the inside of the dropouts, no dice.
So I'm stuck.
I'm pretty sure I shouldn't need pliers or a cone-wrench in addition to my 15mm wrench to remove my rear wheel. This never happened before. What am I doing wrong? Is there something wrong with wheel?
All comments appreciated.
Thanks!
I recently got a flat and had an issue when attempting to remove my rear wheel.
I was able to get the drive-side bolt off, but when I tried to remove the non-drive side bolt, the entire axle would turn and the nut wouldn't come off. I then reinstalled the drive-side bolt and tried removing the non-drive side first. It came off. But then I had the same issue when trying to remove the drive-side bolt.
I luckily had some pliers in my backpack and was able to remove the 2nd bolt by holding the axle to stop it from spinning. Not the best for the threads, I know.
When I got home I examined my rear wheel set-up:
- It's a fixed/fixed origin8 bolt-on sealed-bearing hub. I usually have an mks chain tensioner on each side and hold them on with problem-solver axle nuts.
- I thought that maybe since the chain tensioners were not serrated, the surface was too smooth to keep the axle from spinning, but when I removed them and reinstalled the wheel, I had the same problem.
- Even went so far as to back out the spacers so that the locknuts pressed more into the inside of the dropouts, no dice.
So I'm stuck.
I'm pretty sure I shouldn't need pliers or a cone-wrench in addition to my 15mm wrench to remove my rear wheel. This never happened before. What am I doing wrong? Is there something wrong with wheel?
All comments appreciated.
Thanks!
#2
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I think you're simply overtorqueing the axle nuts.
Try using less torque, maybe lubing the threads.
You can also use a cone wrench to keep the axle from turning.
Try using less torque, maybe lubing the threads.
You can also use a cone wrench to keep the axle from turning.
#3
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Thread Starter
#4
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Maybe Tighten up the DS Nut again, then it clamped in place, give the NDS one a Go, again?
Grease the threads , before the next time.
Grease the threads , before the next time.
#5
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When loosening or tightening axle nuts it helps to work on one side only a bit then the other side's nut. Going back and forth will loosen both without letting the axle spin (which can effect the bearing adjustment if the cones and lock nuts are not well set). Andy
#7
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From the look of the nut in the first photo you might want to treat yourself to a pair of new ones.
#8
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The rust in that picture is a big part of the problem. Removing the rust, cleaning everything up and a bit of grease on the threads as well as contact area of the axle nut will help tremendously.
The nuts in the picture are garbage and need to be replaced.
-Tim-
The nuts in the picture are garbage and need to be replaced.
-Tim-
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armchaircyclist
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