Time to retire these rims?
10-12-16, 07:28 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Woodbury, MN
Posts: 429
Bikes: 2006 Trek Pilot 1.2, 1972 Schwinn SS
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 156 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Time to retire these rims?
The crack on the front one has been there a while and hasn't really been an issue. But I think the brake wear is starting to get extreme. Any reason not to save the hubs?
10-12-16, 07:33 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Montreal, Quebec
Posts: 5,925
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1818 Post(s)
Liked 1,693 Times
in
974 Posts
Can't see the hubs, so no idea if they are worth saving. That "crack" looks like the joint where the rim is joined. If it is directly opposite the valve hole, it isn't a crack
10-12-16, 07:43 PM
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Woodbury, MN
Posts: 429
Bikes: 2006 Trek Pilot 1.2, 1972 Schwinn SS
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 156 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
. Thanks. Attaching a pic of the hubs, not sure if that helps.
10-12-16, 07:47 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Montreal, Quebec
Posts: 5,925
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1818 Post(s)
Liked 1,693 Times
in
974 Posts
So, what is the problem? Rim joints are not cracks, they are normal. Sounds as if you are looking for a problem that does not exist
10-12-16, 07:50 PM
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Woodbury, MN
Posts: 429
Bikes: 2006 Trek Pilot 1.2, 1972 Schwinn SS
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 156 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
The problem is the wear. They are at 15000 miles and some of the groves are starting to look a little deep.
10-12-16, 07:52 PM
#7
working on my sandal tan
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CID
Posts: 22,629
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
Mentioned: 98 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3871 Post(s)
Liked 2,568 Times
in
1,579 Posts
10-12-16, 07:58 PM
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Woodbury, MN
Posts: 429
Bikes: 2006 Trek Pilot 1.2, 1972 Schwinn SS
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 156 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Not noticeably concave, no. The front feels smooth the rear a little rough in spots but not concave.
10-12-16, 08:00 PM
#9
- Soli Deo Gloria -
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Northwest Georgia
Posts: 14,779
Bikes: 2018 Rodriguez Custom Fixed Gear, 2017 Niner RLT 9 RDO, 2015 Bianchi Pista, 2002 Fuji Robaix
Mentioned: 235 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6844 Post(s)
Liked 736 Times
in
469 Posts
With all due respect, I think the first step is to clean them. Then reassess.
Elbow grease will probably make half of that "wear" go away.
-Tim-
Elbow grease will probably make half of that "wear" go away.
-Tim-
Last edited by TimothyH; 10-12-16 at 08:09 PM.
10-12-16, 08:00 PM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Montreal, Quebec
Posts: 5,925
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1818 Post(s)
Liked 1,693 Times
in
974 Posts
THIS. Small grooves in the rim sidewall mean very little. Unless the rims have a noticeably concave profile there is nothing to worry about. I have wheels with much more mileage than that which I have no worries about
10-12-16, 08:04 PM
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Woodbury, MN
Posts: 429
Bikes: 2006 Trek Pilot 1.2, 1972 Schwinn SS
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 156 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Cool, I will carry on then. I do clean them weekly to monthly. Thanks everyone
10-12-16, 08:57 PM
#12
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Posts: 21,843
Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1173 Post(s)
Liked 927 Times
in
612 Posts
Your wheels are trashed. Send them to me for disposal.
__________________
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
10-12-16, 09:09 PM
#13
don't try this at home.
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: N. KY
Posts: 5,936
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 973 Post(s)
Liked 511 Times
in
351 Posts
It actually looks quite normal.
Look at the brake pads. They likely have stuff stuck in them that's digging the grooves. Sometimes it's little slivers of aluminum from the rim itself. I've had good luck with Koolstop Salmon pads, which seem to be less likely to cause these grooves.
Dig out any stuff stuck in the brake pad with the tip of a knife blade, or something pointed. If the pads look shiny, smooth them with a file or some rough sandpaper wrapped on a block of wood.
When installing new pads, I've used some 320 or 400 grit sandpaper. I fold it over into a small pad, spin the wheel while on the bike, and use very light pressure. I'm just trying to knock off any high spots, not get rid of the grooves.
Look at the brake pads. They likely have stuff stuck in them that's digging the grooves. Sometimes it's little slivers of aluminum from the rim itself. I've had good luck with Koolstop Salmon pads, which seem to be less likely to cause these grooves.
Dig out any stuff stuck in the brake pad with the tip of a knife blade, or something pointed. If the pads look shiny, smooth them with a file or some rough sandpaper wrapped on a block of wood.
When installing new pads, I've used some 320 or 400 grit sandpaper. I fold it over into a small pad, spin the wheel while on the bike, and use very light pressure. I'm just trying to knock off any high spots, not get rid of the grooves.
10-13-16, 01:58 PM
#14
Banned
Take the tire off and Measure the thickness.. best if you took the data when new so you could compare, now.
10-13-16, 02:20 PM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18372 Post(s)
Liked 4,507 Times
in
3,350 Posts
Some rims will have a wear groove.
In that case, it is normal for the groove to be there.
Not normal for it to be gone.
In this case, both the front and rear should be the same, assuming matching rims.
Of course, not all the rims have that indicator.
In that case, it is normal for the groove to be there.
Not normal for it to be gone.
In this case, both the front and rear should be the same, assuming matching rims.
Of course, not all the rims have that indicator.
10-14-16, 08:30 AM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Mountain Brook. AL
Posts: 4,002
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 303 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 136 Times
in
104 Posts
You should be aware that 'slivers of aluminum' are built into brake pads in part as a wear indicator and are not
from the wheel rim. Rims do abrade away from braking friction enhanced by particles of road grit with rim life
in the 10s of thousands of miles with reasonable care. Extremes of wet weather/off road/winter riding can
accelerate this. Brake pads also have primary wear indicators of a transverse groove across the braking surface
of the pad, when this groove disappears the pad should be replaced.
from the wheel rim. Rims do abrade away from braking friction enhanced by particles of road grit with rim life
in the 10s of thousands of miles with reasonable care. Extremes of wet weather/off road/winter riding can
accelerate this. Brake pads also have primary wear indicators of a transverse groove across the braking surface
of the pad, when this groove disappears the pad should be replaced.
10-14-16, 09:35 AM
#17
Senior Member
jorglueke, Here's a thread I started last year on a similar topic: https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-me...zzy-logic.html
A year later, this January, I tested them again at 120 PSI with the same results. They look bad, but they're doing fine and are appropriate for the beater.
Brad
A year later, this January, I tested them again at 120 PSI with the same results. They look bad, but they're doing fine and are appropriate for the beater.
Brad
10-14-16, 12:24 PM
#22
Generally bewildered
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Eastern PA, USA
Posts: 3,037
Bikes: 2014 Trek Domane 6.9, 1999 LeMond Zurich, 1978 Schwinn Superior
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1152 Post(s)
Liked 341 Times
in
251 Posts
What others have said, plus make sure that you have relatively fresh brake pads.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
darker
Classic and Vintage Bicycles: Whats it Worth? Appraisals.
1
11-30-17 08:12 AM
greyghost_6
Bicycle Mechanics
8
07-04-10 02:15 PM
