Quarkwhale

Fork: Rockshox reba sl
Frame: Specialized Stumpjumper '02 M4 HT
Headset: Hope (unsure of model can provide pictures if necessary)

I am trying to remove my fork, I have removed everything from the top cap down to the compression ring but the fork stays firmly attached. The fork moves side to side slightly but will not move at all up or down in order to remove it. I have tried hitting the top of the steerer tube with a mallet as hard as i felt comfortable and still nothing.

The fork/headset hasn't been removed since at least 2009.

Am I missing something here? Not hitting it hard enough perhaps?

Thank you for any help and sorry if I've missed out any details.

thumpism 

Depending on the threadless headset there may be a wedge ring pressed down into a groove on the inside diameter of the top race between it and the steerer. See if you can use a pick of some sort to pry it up, making it easier to remove and the fork should drop out when it is no longer retained by the pressure of that ring. A hard enough whack should move it regardless.

It's the centering sleeve in this photo but yours might be different.

coominya

I had an old fork I had to belt a lot. Use a rubber mallet or if you haven't one a piece of soft wood between it and the hammer.

Andrew R Stewart 

It sounds like the centering sleeve/compression ring has been removed so the chance of rust developing between the upper headset cup and the steerer is strong, especially if one is steel and the other is AL. Penetrating oil placed on the exposed top section of the steerer might drip down and soften the corrosion/bond. More shock is the next step, and shock is sometimes more the issue then force is.


At some point the decision of what is more important to save comes into play. Is the fork worth more to you then the headset? Either can be destructively removed (grinding/slitting). Andy.

Quarkwhale

Thanks for the replies. I've had a few more attempts at removing it with no luck so i'll continue to apply WD40 to see if rust/corrosion is the issue.

Just to clarify the centering sleeve and compression ring have been removed, at the top end the steerer tube is able to move around by about 1mm but of course does not slide up/down at all. At the bottom end the steerer wiggles around slightly but is restricted by the bearing/bottom cup. I suspect it may be correct that the steerer has become bonded to the bottom cup/bearing.

More suggestions are very welcome.
Thanks again.

Andrew R Stewart 

A few comments- The bonding of the steerer and the headset parts is at the upper stack, not the lower one (or I'll eat my hat). WD40 is a poor penetrant. Koil, ATF, PB Blaster all are far better. But just having a penrtrant get past the corrosion does not remove the mechanical clamping of the plug (understand that most corrosion is a larger molecule, rust adds dimension to the surface). Hence the suggestion of shock to break the structure of the corrosion. Since the fork has some free play within the bearing perhaps a downward impact to the upper cup is in order. Place a tireless wheel in the fork (do not just place the drop outs on the floor!) and a length of solid pipe over the steerer that also contacts the upper cup then whack away. Andy

3alarmer 

...the frame itself needs to be firm in the stand, with the clamp of the stand close to the head tube to minimize flexing in the frame as you pound on the steerer. Block of scrap wood and a bigger hammer.

xiaoman1 

Hi,
I am not sure what you mean by compression ring is everything off of the top of the tube (threaded end) and it will still not come out?

If you do not want to damage the fork threads do not hit it without the top nut in place....leave it on when "tapping" it as mentioned in the above post be sure the frame is secure when tapping other wise you are not getting the force necessary to remove the fork.

2 other things that might help:

1 Turn the bike over and put a block into the top of the fork near the ST with the bike secure give it some "taps" to see if this will provide upper movement and help dislodge the fork.
2. Put more PB into the cavity and wait for a while....if all else fails you know the answer.
Good Luck , Ben

Andrew R Stewart 

The fork is a threadless one. The chance of steerer damage from impact strikes has been covered. Andy

xiaoman1 

AS, You are correct misread the post about the HS being threadless...so obviously no nut...tap at bottom still applies
Regards, Ben

coominya

You have to be careful with the paintwork though, I don't use the stand, I don't find them rigid enough. I rest the frame across the arm of a solid old lounge chair with the head and forks extended over the edge. It's padded but firm enough to allow the transmission of the force.

Trakhak

Attempting to secure the frame in a rigid structure is one approach. Veteran mechanics know that the rigid structure with which the bike is secured is likely to absorb much of the force of impact. Often, the best approach is to suspend the bike---e.g., by balancing the bike by the nose of the saddle on top of a work stand clamp---to ensure that little of the force is absorbed by the rigid structure and that almost all of the force goes where you want it to.

cny-bikeman

That made no sense at all. If you balance the bike by the nose of the saddle much of the force will go into rocking the frame around the fulcrum you have created. A "rigid structure" will not significantly absorb the force of a blow to something secured by it. It's more likely to reflect it back.

Trakhak

That's the reaction I used to get from new mechanics back when I was running service departments in bike shops. I agree, it's not the obvious approach, which is why the average mechanic will never try it.

Andrew R Stewart 

"That made no sense at all. If you balance the bike by the nose of the saddle much of the force will go into rocking the frame around the fulcrum you have created. A "rigid structure" will not significantly absorb the force of a blow to something secured by it. It's more likely to reflect it back." cny-bikeman


"Attempting to secure the frame in a rigid structure is one approach. Veteran mechanics know that the rigid structure with which the bike is secured is likely to absorb much of the force of impact. Often, the best approach is to suspend the bike---e.g., by balancing the bike by the nose of the saddle on top of a work stand clamp---to ensure that little of the force is absorbed by the rigid structure and that almost all of the force goes where you want it to." Trakhak


No repair stand is what I would call a "rigid structure". Even the Park PRS series have a fair amount of bike movement when the bike is impacted. So I view the above points to be shades of gray. But the main reason to hold the bike in a repair stand is to allow for far better impact control and to lessen the after impact secondary damage possibilities. It's easier to pin point your chisel ot drift punch on a bike that's not moving as you place the tip of the tool on it. Also the bike swinging about after the whack can cause issues. if you must hang the bike from the saddle at least strap the seat to the jaw arm so the bike won't slip off and fall on your foot (Very important if the wheels are off the bike. Ever seen a toe nail punctured by a chain ring? I have). Andy.

cny-bikeman

It's not obvious because it's illogical. I'm hardly a new mechanic, and am very comfortable with creative, out of the box solutions.

3alarmer 

...that hurts just reading it.