Rebuilding 95' Marin Rocky Ridge MTB
02-06-17, 08:01 AM
#1
Trekkie
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Rebuilding 95' Marin Rocky Ridge MTB
I am still riding my 94-96?( forget what year I bought it ) Marin Rocky ridge hardtail .
Have alot of miles on it. So far I have had to replace a worn out cassette and chains but otherwise it's held up great. I love the bike still and it has become my travel bike so it out alot in the weather.
I need help picking some componets for a refresh. I have bought some scram cables 1.1mm to fit the gripshift shifters, brake cables and new kool stop salmon pads for the cantilever brakes.
It really needs a new fork as that old rockshox quadra 21r is shot ... might as well be a rigid fork now.
specs now:
mavic rims, 8 speed cassette 11-28, white ind. 22,32,42 front... deore lx derailleurs which still shift ok ... I changed out that weak spring on the rear ages ago and had installed a bass worm shifter helper which has fallen apart ..but it shifts ok with the help of that spring
Biggest issue is what fork should I get? It has a 1 1/8 tube, diacomp headset... threadless
Next is should I get new derailleurs? like xt? I plan on riding it for a while and on the fence if it's worth changing derailleurs
Thanx
Have alot of miles on it. So far I have had to replace a worn out cassette and chains but otherwise it's held up great. I love the bike still and it has become my travel bike so it out alot in the weather.
I need help picking some componets for a refresh. I have bought some scram cables 1.1mm to fit the gripshift shifters, brake cables and new kool stop salmon pads for the cantilever brakes.
It really needs a new fork as that old rockshox quadra 21r is shot ... might as well be a rigid fork now.
specs now:
mavic rims, 8 speed cassette 11-28, white ind. 22,32,42 front... deore lx derailleurs which still shift ok ... I changed out that weak spring on the rear ages ago and had installed a bass worm shifter helper which has fallen apart ..but it shifts ok with the help of that spring
Biggest issue is what fork should I get? It has a 1 1/8 tube, diacomp headset... threadless
Next is should I get new derailleurs? like xt? I plan on riding it for a while and on the fence if it's worth changing derailleurs
Thanx
02-06-17, 03:40 PM
#2
Senior Member
The fork is the biggest decision. Your original fork apparently has 63mm of suspension. You can probably use an 80mm fork or a rigid fork suspension corrected to replace an 80mm fork fine. I'd generally recommend going rigid on your bike--make sure you buy a fork that is suspension corrected and has canti/v-brake mounts (or buy a front disc brake). Nashbar Rigid 26 034 Mountain Bike Fork | eBay would do well.
The cheapest suspension fork I'd recommend would be a Suntour XCM in 80mm of travel for a 26" wheel with canti posts, because it has alloy stanchions and a decent cartridge damper that can be serviced by outright replacing the cartridge. While not exactly fancy, this would be drastically better than your original fork ever was. Most nicer forks now are available only disc only--though you may be able to find a good air sprung fork with aluminum stanchions and canti posts new old stock if you search hard enough
I'd generally recommend against replacing the derailleurs if they are working well. If anything, I might clean them in a solvent tank and relubricate the pivot points, but derailleurs frequently last a long time. A more common problem with bikes of similar vintage is the shifters, which can get gummed up with the original grease and dust, and the pawls can eventually begin to wear a little. If you do replace any drivetrain components, try to stick with 8 speed parts if possible, and remember that 10 speed Shimano mountain components use different cable pull ratios and are incompatible with earlier drivetrain components. Really I think you'd be surprised by how well Acera and Alivio derailleurs work--Deore is currently 10speed, although 9 speed derailleurs are still pretty easy to find.
Probably the biggest potential upgrade (aside from the overhaul, and a fork that is either a useful suspension fork or a much lighter rigid fork) would be really good tires--either nice, supple slicks if you're not using it much off road, or good mountain tires if you are. Tubeless would help even more, but your rims are probably not designed to set up tubeless, and getting a conversion to work reliability can be difficult.
The cheapest suspension fork I'd recommend would be a Suntour XCM in 80mm of travel for a 26" wheel with canti posts, because it has alloy stanchions and a decent cartridge damper that can be serviced by outright replacing the cartridge. While not exactly fancy, this would be drastically better than your original fork ever was. Most nicer forks now are available only disc only--though you may be able to find a good air sprung fork with aluminum stanchions and canti posts new old stock if you search hard enough
I'd generally recommend against replacing the derailleurs if they are working well. If anything, I might clean them in a solvent tank and relubricate the pivot points, but derailleurs frequently last a long time. A more common problem with bikes of similar vintage is the shifters, which can get gummed up with the original grease and dust, and the pawls can eventually begin to wear a little. If you do replace any drivetrain components, try to stick with 8 speed parts if possible, and remember that 10 speed Shimano mountain components use different cable pull ratios and are incompatible with earlier drivetrain components. Really I think you'd be surprised by how well Acera and Alivio derailleurs work--Deore is currently 10speed, although 9 speed derailleurs are still pretty easy to find.
Probably the biggest potential upgrade (aside from the overhaul, and a fork that is either a useful suspension fork or a much lighter rigid fork) would be really good tires--either nice, supple slicks if you're not using it much off road, or good mountain tires if you are. Tubeless would help even more, but your rims are probably not designed to set up tubeless, and getting a conversion to work reliability can be difficult.
02-07-17, 04:11 PM
#3
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Wouldn't worry too much about suspension correction, I have a '95 Pine Mountain (pretty much the steel equivalent of yours) which over the years has had longer and longer travel forks fitted, with no adverse affect, wouldn't go any more than 100mm though. Have had other MTB's of the same age, and they have all benefited form longer forks than were available when they were new.
The biggest issue with the 1994/5 Marin range was they mainly had threaded headset, yours has a threadless which is a big + (which also means it's most likely a 1996 model), surprised the gripshift have survived, they weren't great BITD, in the UK SRAM did a swapout program for new SRT-800 X-rays, which were better, but swapping for trigger shifters is the way to go, be it SRAM or Shimano.
For groupset suggestions, you can take upto 11 speed Shimano with the wheels you have, but the lower end Shimano groupset like Alivio M4000 are very good VFM, and look great
The biggest issue with the 1994/5 Marin range was they mainly had threaded headset, yours has a threadless which is a big + (which also means it's most likely a 1996 model), surprised the gripshift have survived, they weren't great BITD, in the UK SRAM did a swapout program for new SRT-800 X-rays, which were better, but swapping for trigger shifters is the way to go, be it SRAM or Shimano.
For groupset suggestions, you can take upto 11 speed Shimano with the wheels you have, but the lower end Shimano groupset like Alivio M4000 are very good VFM, and look great
02-07-17, 07:03 PM
#4
Constant tinkerer
The fork is the biggest decision. Your original fork apparently has 63mm of suspension. You can probably use an 80mm fork or a rigid fork suspension corrected to replace an 80mm fork fine. I'd generally recommend going rigid on your bike--make sure you buy a fork that is suspension corrected and has canti/v-brake mounts (or buy a front disc brake). Nashbar Rigid 26 034 Mountain Bike Fork | eBay would do well.
The cheapest suspension fork I'd recommend would be a Suntour XCM in 80mm of travel for a 26" wheel with canti posts, because it has alloy stanchions and a decent cartridge damper that can be serviced by outright replacing the cartridge. While not exactly fancy, this would be drastically better than your original fork ever was. Most nicer forks now are available only disc only--though you may be able to find a good air sprung fork with aluminum stanchions and canti posts new old stock if you search hard enough
I'd generally recommend against replacing the derailleurs if they are working well. If anything, I might clean them in a solvent tank and relubricate the pivot points, but derailleurs frequently last a long time. A more common problem with bikes of similar vintage is the shifters, which can get gummed up with the original grease and dust, and the pawls can eventually begin to wear a little. If you do replace any drivetrain components, try to stick with 8 speed parts if possible, and remember that 10 speed Shimano mountain components use different cable pull ratios and are incompatible with earlier drivetrain components. Really I think you'd be surprised by how well Acera and Alivio derailleurs work--Deore is currently 10speed, although 9 speed derailleurs are still pretty easy to find.
Probably the biggest potential upgrade (aside from the overhaul, and a fork that is either a useful suspension fork or a much lighter rigid fork) would be really good tires--either nice, supple slicks if you're not using it much off road, or good mountain tires if you are. Tubeless would help even more, but your rims are probably not designed to set up tubeless, and getting a conversion to work reliability can be difficult.
The cheapest suspension fork I'd recommend would be a Suntour XCM in 80mm of travel for a 26" wheel with canti posts, because it has alloy stanchions and a decent cartridge damper that can be serviced by outright replacing the cartridge. While not exactly fancy, this would be drastically better than your original fork ever was. Most nicer forks now are available only disc only--though you may be able to find a good air sprung fork with aluminum stanchions and canti posts new old stock if you search hard enough
I'd generally recommend against replacing the derailleurs if they are working well. If anything, I might clean them in a solvent tank and relubricate the pivot points, but derailleurs frequently last a long time. A more common problem with bikes of similar vintage is the shifters, which can get gummed up with the original grease and dust, and the pawls can eventually begin to wear a little. If you do replace any drivetrain components, try to stick with 8 speed parts if possible, and remember that 10 speed Shimano mountain components use different cable pull ratios and are incompatible with earlier drivetrain components. Really I think you'd be surprised by how well Acera and Alivio derailleurs work--Deore is currently 10speed, although 9 speed derailleurs are still pretty easy to find.
Probably the biggest potential upgrade (aside from the overhaul, and a fork that is either a useful suspension fork or a much lighter rigid fork) would be really good tires--either nice, supple slicks if you're not using it much off road, or good mountain tires if you are. Tubeless would help even more, but your rims are probably not designed to set up tubeless, and getting a conversion to work reliability can be difficult.
I haven't used the XCM but I have used some modern Rock Shox (entry level) forks and to me they feel like garbage compared to the 1990s Quadra/Indy forks I have in my fleet. I would much rather have a rigid fork than any new suspension fork that's pushing six pounds.
Also: if you're not using this bike for actual mountain biking, then it's rigid all the way. No need for suspension on the road.
02-07-17, 08:28 PM
#5
Senior Member
I agree with all of this advice except for the recommendation of the Suntour XCM fork. 1990s entry level Rockshox forks get a bad rap, but in my experience they are far better than any of the inexpensive boat anchors available today. The Quadra 21R is listed at 3.0lbs, while the XCM is a whopping 5.8! That's a HUGE difference. You don't have to be a weight weenie to be sorely disappointed by an extra ~3lbs of weight on the front of your bike.
I haven't used the XCM but I have used some modern Rock Shox (entry level) forks and to me they feel like garbage compared to the 1990s Quadra/Indy forks I have in my fleet. I would much rather have a rigid fork than any new suspension fork that's pushing six pounds.
Also: if you're not using this bike for actual mountain biking, then it's rigid all the way. No need for suspension on the road.
I haven't used the XCM but I have used some modern Rock Shox (entry level) forks and to me they feel like garbage compared to the 1990s Quadra/Indy forks I have in my fleet. I would much rather have a rigid fork than any new suspension fork that's pushing six pounds.
Also: if you're not using this bike for actual mountain biking, then it's rigid all the way. No need for suspension on the road.
Comparing to the Quadra isn't reasonable--it's got frickin' elastomer suspension! A Rockshox XC30 Gold weighs 3.6 pounds for what it's worth. I agree that there are probably better options if the OP can find a NOS fork. If the budget can be highish, really something like a Recon or Reba with a good disc brake (maybe a BB7, or a Spyre) would transform this bike into a capable mountain bike, but at that point it's worth considering going all-in for a new bike, since OEMs purchase at such lower prices than aftermarket.
Last edited by cpach; 02-07-17 at 08:33 PM.
02-07-17, 09:57 PM
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I recently built up 2 mountain bike frames from the 90's and my choice was finding a good used Marzocchi Bomber oil bath forks from late 90's/early 2000's. They are pretty indestructible.
An 80mm will work fine as that is what I am running on my '95 Trek 970. As for other components, 9 speed derailleurs work with 7, 8 and 9 speed drive trains.
John
An 80mm will work fine as that is what I am running on my '95 Trek 970. As for other components, 9 speed derailleurs work with 7, 8 and 9 speed drive trains.
John
02-08-17, 08:55 AM
#7
Constant tinkerer
Comparing to the Quadra isn't reasonable--it's got frickin' elastomer suspension! A Rockshox XC30 Gold weighs 3.6 pounds for what it's worth. I agree that there are probably better options if the OP can find a NOS fork. If the budget can be highish, really something like a Recon or Reba with a good disc brake (maybe a BB7, or a Spyre) would transform this bike into a capable mountain bike, but at that point it's worth considering going all-in for a new bike, since OEMs purchase at such lower prices than aftermarket.
For the sake of clarity I think you mean Rockshox 30 Gold TK. I couldn't find anything called XC30 Gold. Anyway, the 30 Gold TK looks like a pretty solid fork. Seems like they can be had for about $230 online which isn't terrible. But I don't know how much the OP wants to spend on this bike. https://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/30-gold-tk
02-08-17, 01:19 PM
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Add to that, the vast majority of elastomer forks were budget/low end ones. Pace (now DT Swiss) did high end ones, they ditched elastomers when DT Swiss took over, Manitou stuck with them for far too long, and took a massive hit in market share/rep, and Rock Shox killed them off after the Indy. Just about anyone else who did them is out of business. and has been for pushing 15+ years now
02-09-17, 02:51 PM
#9
Senior Member
Looking for cheap suspension forks? Aliexpress. I got a set with adjustable damping and a handlebar lockout for $200. They turned out to be GREAT. Sorry no long term report since the bike got stolen. Plenty of models and vendors for you to find something OK for your budget.
-SP
-SP
02-10-17, 10:37 AM
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I am still riding my 94-96?( forget what year I bought it ) Marin Rocky ridge hardtail .
Have alot of miles on it. So far I have had to replace a worn out cassette and chains but otherwise it's held up great. I love the bike still and it has become my travel bike so it out alot in the weather.
I need help picking some componets for a refresh. I have bought some scram cables 1.1mm to fit the gripshift shifters, brake cables and new kool stop salmon pads for the cantilever brakes.
It really needs a new fork as that old rockshox quadra 21r is shot ... might as well be a rigid fork now.
specs now:
mavic rims, 8 speed cassette 11-28, white ind. 22,32,42 front... deore lx derailleurs which still shift ok ... I changed out that weak spring on the rear ages ago and had installed a bass worm shifter helper which has fallen apart ..but it shifts ok with the help of that spring
Biggest issue is what fork should I get? It has a 1 1/8 tube, diacomp headset... threadless
Next is should I get new derailleurs? like xt? I plan on riding it for a while and on the fence if it's worth changing derailleurs
Thanx
Have alot of miles on it. So far I have had to replace a worn out cassette and chains but otherwise it's held up great. I love the bike still and it has become my travel bike so it out alot in the weather.
I need help picking some componets for a refresh. I have bought some scram cables 1.1mm to fit the gripshift shifters, brake cables and new kool stop salmon pads for the cantilever brakes.
It really needs a new fork as that old rockshox quadra 21r is shot ... might as well be a rigid fork now.
specs now:
mavic rims, 8 speed cassette 11-28, white ind. 22,32,42 front... deore lx derailleurs which still shift ok ... I changed out that weak spring on the rear ages ago and had installed a bass worm shifter helper which has fallen apart ..but it shifts ok with the help of that spring
Biggest issue is what fork should I get? It has a 1 1/8 tube, diacomp headset... threadless
Next is should I get new derailleurs? like xt? I plan on riding it for a while and on the fence if it's worth changing derailleurs
Thanx
https://www.suspensionforkparts.net/...kit-95-96.html
A Youtube video showing teardown and reassembly is here:
The service manual is available here:
https://www.retrobike.co.uk/gallery2/...rvice.pdf.html
The Quadra and Indy series are among the simpler forks to tear down and rebuild since there are no oil or air pressure seals to deal with.
Last edited by Paramount1973; 02-10-17 at 10:41 AM.
03-27-17, 08:21 AM
#11
Trekkie
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Thanks all. I didn't want to go all rigid as I do love my trail rides and that front suspension is needed. I hate to dump too much into it as it is out in the weather all the time. We live out of an RV now.... and I keep my road bike inside...the better half would kill me if I brought another one in lol .... so the marin sits on the bike rack in rain and whatever now which is why I didn't want to dump alot of money into a new bike.
I am surprised that the grip shift have held up also but they never gave me trouble. I have kenda excavators on it now and love them.
Maybe I'm better off just looking around for a newer used bike .... a quick look at prices for disc forks makes me think it's not worth the investment... maybe I'll just have to rebuild this one with new elastomers for now
I am surprised that the grip shift have held up also but they never gave me trouble. I have kenda excavators on it now and love them.
Maybe I'm better off just looking around for a newer used bike .... a quick look at prices for disc forks makes me think it's not worth the investment... maybe I'll just have to rebuild this one with new elastomers for now
Last edited by MuddKatt; 03-27-17 at 08:44 AM.
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