How are these SKS fender stay caps supposed to work?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Memphis TN area
Posts: 7,391
Bikes: 2011 Felt Z85 (road/commuter), 2006 Marin Pine Mountain (utility/commuter E-bike), 1995 KHS Alite 1000 (gravel grinder)
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 676 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 13 Times
in
13 Posts
How are these SKS fender stay caps supposed to work?
I don't know if my new SKS 65mm longboard chromoplastic fenders have new, revised hardware or what, but I can't find ANYTHING online that shows what I have, and I can't seem to get these stay caps to fit properly.
Everything I've seen online, how-to instructions, videos, pics, etc all have caps that look like these:
However the hardware I have included something different, which looks like it's supposed to fit over the nut after it's installed, but for the life of me I can't get it to go on. I'm about ready to cut off the "ring" part and just put on the cap portion.
Everything I've seen online, how-to instructions, videos, pics, etc all have caps that look like these:
However the hardware I have included something different, which looks like it's supposed to fit over the nut after it's installed, but for the life of me I can't get it to go on. I'm about ready to cut off the "ring" part and just put on the cap portion.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Roswell, GA
Posts: 8,319
Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1438 Post(s)
Liked 1,092 Times
in
723 Posts
Perhaps the stay needs to be cut a little shorter so that the cap can slide a little further down. On the left-hand photo it looks like it could go down enough to get the ring to engage the nut. Maybe heating it with a hair dryer will allow you to stretch it a little; it doesn't look like you need much more to make it fit.
#3
Non omnino gravis
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Memphis TN area
Posts: 7,391
Bikes: 2011 Felt Z85 (road/commuter), 2006 Marin Pine Mountain (utility/commuter E-bike), 1995 KHS Alite 1000 (gravel grinder)
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 676 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 13 Times
in
13 Posts
Rods are already cut shorter than the length of the caps. I was worried they might be too short. I can't grip the stay and push down on the cap hard enough to get it to go on, without bending and shifting everything.
#5
Bikes are okay, I guess.
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 6,938
Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Giant CFM-2, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT
Mentioned: 69 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2647 Post(s)
Liked 2,446 Times
in
1,557 Posts
I'd snip off the loop and use a dab of adhesive on the cap if worried about it staying on.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,689
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5772 Post(s)
Liked 2,563 Times
in
1,420 Posts
Try putting the caps in hot (not boiling hot) water. Warming them will make them more pliable, and the water help lubricate them as you try to slide them on.
Hot tap water should be warm enough, though you might want to heat it to your threshold of pain.
Hot tap water should be warm enough, though you might want to heat it to your threshold of pain.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Memphis TN area
Posts: 7,391
Bikes: 2011 Felt Z85 (road/commuter), 2006 Marin Pine Mountain (utility/commuter E-bike), 1995 KHS Alite 1000 (gravel grinder)
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 676 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 13 Times
in
13 Posts
Yeah I'll probably do that.
Figures that I get the one fender set with weird hardware that doesn't look like anything else.
Figures that I get the one fender set with weird hardware that doesn't look like anything else.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: northern Deep South
Posts: 8,895
Bikes: Fuji Touring, Novara Randonee
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2601 Post(s)
Liked 1,925 Times
in
1,208 Posts
Looks like SKS has addressed the one thing I didn't like about their fenders. The plain plastic caps mine came with never would stay on, and I couldn't find an adhesive that would hold them on. So you brush the stay with something (leg, hand, telephone pole), it pops off and flies into who-knows-where. Next time you're walking the bike that sharp end is gonna poke your leg and give your tetanus immune system a jolt.
Finally ended up cutting the ends even shorter and spending some quality time with a file to round the ends off.
Finally ended up cutting the ends even shorter and spending some quality time with a file to round the ends off.
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Memphis TN area
Posts: 7,391
Bikes: 2011 Felt Z85 (road/commuter), 2006 Marin Pine Mountain (utility/commuter E-bike), 1995 KHS Alite 1000 (gravel grinder)
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 676 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 13 Times
in
13 Posts
Looks like SKS has addressed the one thing I didn't like about their fenders. The plain plastic caps mine came with never would stay on, and I couldn't find an adhesive that would hold them on. So you brush the stay with something (leg, hand, telephone pole), it pops off and flies into who-knows-where. Next time you're walking the bike that sharp end is gonna poke your leg and give your tetanus immune system a jolt.
Finally ended up cutting the ends even shorter and spending some quality time with a file to round the ends off.
Finally ended up cutting the ends even shorter and spending some quality time with a file to round the ends off.
#10
incazzare.
I gave up on these. I just cut the ring part off now.
__________________
1964 JRJ (Bob Jackson), 1973 Wes Mason, 1974 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1986 Schwinn High Sierra, 2000ish Colian (Colin Laing), 2011 Dick Chafe, 2013 Velo Orange Pass Hunter
1964 JRJ (Bob Jackson), 1973 Wes Mason, 1974 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1986 Schwinn High Sierra, 2000ish Colian (Colin Laing), 2011 Dick Chafe, 2013 Velo Orange Pass Hunter
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Memphis TN area
Posts: 7,391
Bikes: 2011 Felt Z85 (road/commuter), 2006 Marin Pine Mountain (utility/commuter E-bike), 1995 KHS Alite 1000 (gravel grinder)
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 676 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 13 Times
in
13 Posts
It's kind of a bummer when stuff doesn't work the way it's designed to work. It makes the product seem like junk.
#12
The Infractionator
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 2,201
Bikes: Classic road bikes: 1986 Cannondale, 1978 Trek
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 875 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
Well, the issue here seems to be that when you cut the stay, you didn't bother to deburr the end so now the cap won't go on. You need to file a chamfer 360° around the end.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 14,744
Bikes: Yes
Mentioned: 525 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3230 Post(s)
Liked 3,868 Times
in
1,439 Posts
The SKS Longboards that I installed recently came with the T-ish caps in your first picture, and I've got to say they were a serious PITA to get right. In either case, the intention is to have something structural that holds the caps in place.
The way it works is:
1. Put the fenders together without the caps.
2. Adjust the fenders to get the fit correct.
3. Mark the point where you want to cut the stays.
4. Disassemble the fenders.
5. Cut the stays.
6. Reassemble with the caps in place and adjust the fit.
Like you, I had problems getting the stays to slide into the caps while holding everything in place. I had to chase small pieces across the garage floor a couple of times and at least one of my caps got stretched a bit as I tried to force the stay to go in. I think it's more about entry angle than having burrs on the stay. I just didn't have the necessary dexterity to do it without swearing.
I'm pretty sure you could cut the loops off and just live with the terrible risk of having to replace the caps when they inevitably come off.
The way it works is:
1. Put the fenders together without the caps.
2. Adjust the fenders to get the fit correct.
3. Mark the point where you want to cut the stays.
4. Disassemble the fenders.
5. Cut the stays.
6. Reassemble with the caps in place and adjust the fit.
Like you, I had problems getting the stays to slide into the caps while holding everything in place. I had to chase small pieces across the garage floor a couple of times and at least one of my caps got stretched a bit as I tried to force the stay to go in. I think it's more about entry angle than having burrs on the stay. I just didn't have the necessary dexterity to do it without swearing.
I'm pretty sure you could cut the loops off and just live with the terrible risk of having to replace the caps when they inevitably come off.
__________________
My Bikes
My Bikes
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 20,434
Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones
Mentioned: 178 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5888 Post(s)
Liked 3,471 Times
in
2,079 Posts
+ 1. PITA is right. The first set I went ahead and cut the stays to make it work. I just junked them on my second set of fenders; much easier to install and I can't see that these add much if any value to the assembly.
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 25 miles northwest of Boston
Posts: 29,549
Bikes: Bottecchia Sprint, GT Timberline 29r, Marin Muirwoods 29er, Trek FX Alpha 7.0
Mentioned: 112 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5224 Post(s)
Liked 3,581 Times
in
2,342 Posts
how about tossing the caps & brushing a little plasti-dip or liquid electrical insulation on the tips?
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,063
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4197 Post(s)
Liked 3,849 Times
in
2,300 Posts
Here's two shots of how the plastic protector pieces are placed. For those who don't have experience with them I can see how they might be considered a PITA. But once you learn the squeeze the box open and bend the snout technique they slid on quickly enough.
BTW as a shop wrench how accessories like fenders and racks are installed is an indicator to the detail focus of the wrench. I see many (as in most) fenders and racks with all kinds of short cuts in their mounting methods. Some of the time this is NBD but other times the short cuts cut the rider's skin, cause hardware to bend/loosen and generally not align well. Andy
BTW as a shop wrench how accessories like fenders and racks are installed is an indicator to the detail focus of the wrench. I see many (as in most) fenders and racks with all kinds of short cuts in their mounting methods. Some of the time this is NBD but other times the short cuts cut the rider's skin, cause hardware to bend/loosen and generally not align well. Andy
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 14,744
Bikes: Yes
Mentioned: 525 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3230 Post(s)
Liked 3,868 Times
in
1,439 Posts
It would appear that on top of everything else I failed at reading the directions because I didn't end up with anything but the cap outside the clip. Oops. It looks nice the way you show it.
__________________
My Bikes
My Bikes
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,689
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5772 Post(s)
Liked 2,563 Times
in
1,420 Posts
I wonder if, (suspect) that SKS changed the design because so many people were frustrated with the original version that required positioning the clip BEFORE assembling the stay into the brace.
These solve that problem and are more suited to those who don't read instructions until after they've assembled the parts.
BTW - I'm no better than the next guy, but learned the lesson decades ago courtesy of a snotty writer at the Yamaha corporation. (what follows is not relevant, read only if you want to).
Some 30-40 years ago, Yamaha gifted me a top of the line audio system, including a turntable. The first step of the instructions for setting up the turntable was to remove and discard the transporter bolts holding the platen. I removed the bolts, then to avoid losing them in case I moved and might need to transport my system, I carefully threaded them up from the bottom well clear of the platen, where they could be safely stored.
So, when all was done, I slapped on a favorite record, turned it on and was greeted with a very loud 60 cycle hum.
Go to the trouble shooting section.
Problem #1 covered -- loud hum.
Solution (roughly quoted from memory) "Refer to step 1, where you were instructed to remove and discard the transporter bolts. Now, go back and REMOVE and DISCARD the bolts.
Problem solved, lesson learned.
These solve that problem and are more suited to those who don't read instructions until after they've assembled the parts.
BTW - I'm no better than the next guy, but learned the lesson decades ago courtesy of a snotty writer at the Yamaha corporation. (what follows is not relevant, read only if you want to).
Some 30-40 years ago, Yamaha gifted me a top of the line audio system, including a turntable. The first step of the instructions for setting up the turntable was to remove and discard the transporter bolts holding the platen. I removed the bolts, then to avoid losing them in case I moved and might need to transport my system, I carefully threaded them up from the bottom well clear of the platen, where they could be safely stored.
So, when all was done, I slapped on a favorite record, turned it on and was greeted with a very loud 60 cycle hum.
Go to the trouble shooting section.
Problem #1 covered -- loud hum.
Solution (roughly quoted from memory) "Refer to step 1, where you were instructed to remove and discard the transporter bolts. Now, go back and REMOVE and DISCARD the bolts.
Problem solved, lesson learned.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Last edited by FBinNY; 02-09-17 at 08:20 PM.
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: S/W U.S.
Posts: 806
Bikes: 2016 Novara - Safari
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 384 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Speaking of cutting the stays; what are some good ways to do that? Those things are tough!
#22
Nigel
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 2,991
Bikes: 1980s and 1990s steel: CyclePro, Nishiki, Schwinn, SR, Trek........
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 384 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
6 Posts
I have had good luck with red threadlocker to hold the rubber/plastic end caps on. The red thread locker was the first bottle on my work bench.......
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,063
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4197 Post(s)
Liked 3,849 Times
in
2,300 Posts
My coworkers use a small bolt cutter. I use a hack saw. I also grind the stay ends in a domed shape. because in the end the plastic caps will wear through. Andy (who tries to pay attention to some details)
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 233
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 57 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
1 Post
I was ready to order some SKS Longboards when I came across this thread.
I hope the OP will post again if/when they find out how to get the plastic end caps installed.
Does anyone know if they've changed the plastic end caps on all their fenders?
I hope the OP will post again if/when they find out how to get the plastic end caps installed.
Does anyone know if they've changed the plastic end caps on all their fenders?
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: S/W U.S.
Posts: 806
Bikes: 2016 Novara - Safari
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 384 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts