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Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

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Old 02-17-17, 10:26 AM   #1
IamNed 
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Older Bianchi Rear Hub Spacing

My for fun project that if I knew more would probably be more fun, but learning along the way.

Bianchi Strada LX, best I can determine is it is an '89. All original from looking at googled photos in comparison. Exage Action RD with a six speed free wheel. I assume the rear hub is 126mm, but measuring the drop outs (albeit with a tape measure), I come up with 124mm. The rear wheel fits but not without difficulty. It's about a four cuss word process.

Is it possible this bike came as 124mm drop out, or is the original looking wheelset not the original? I see no indications of being bent. Just a very tight fit.

Thanks for any insight or questions.
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Old 02-17-17, 12:13 PM   #2
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I haven't heard of mid-sized spacing. And by 1989, I think the accepted standard was 126mm rather than 120mm.

Perhaps someone forced in a narrower wheel sometime in the past.

I frequently just put in spacers to match my bike that the wheel is to be used on without measuring anything (then dish the wheel if needed).

Or, you could cold set the rear triangle (to 130mm?)
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Old 02-17-17, 12:18 PM   #3
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126mm is a nominal size, there are of course manufacturing (and tape measure) tolerances. Get a decent caliper if you intend to do much bike work. For example you need to measure seat posts to 0.1mm accuracy. A perfectly good digital caliper can be had from Harbor Freight for as little as $10 on sale.
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Old 02-17-17, 12:21 PM   #4
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Thanks Clifford, I suppose I just want assurance that the dropout should be 126mm. If so, then I'll either leave it as is or consider a way to cold space it another couple mm. I intend to either use this as a beater bike or sell it once safe and rideable. Depends on how much I enjoy the bike once I get it going. If I decide to keep it, I'll replace the wheels with 126mm hubs, but don't want to be in the market for 124mm hub wheel, and don't know enough if those even exist. Thanks again.
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Old 02-17-17, 12:34 PM   #5
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Thanks Dsbrantjr. I'm adding tools as I go, and this is my 6th project/repair/tune up. Of all the bikes I've had over the years and the flats fixed etc, have never had such a difficulty getting a rear wheel into the drop outs. Just for fun I slip a track bike wheel set (120mm) I have left over from my '14 Pista and it fits perfectly. Thanks for the tip on the HF digital caliper. I'll own one before the weekend is over.
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Old 02-17-17, 12:36 PM   #6
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AFAIK 124 is not a recognized standard. I'd put it down as either production tolerances or something that has happened to the frame while the wheel was out.
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Old 02-17-17, 01:16 PM   #7
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Did you just push the end hook against one drop?
Use the tape like a ruler with the "start point" at the 10mm. (or other convenient place like 100)
Lay it IN the drops and measure to the other side, carefully lining up the 2 marks at each drop.
Subtract the 10mm. (or??)
Some tapes have the hook bent badly and give very erroneous readings when taking an "inside" measurement.
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Old 02-17-17, 02:10 PM   #8
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OP.

Because I discovered that the 700x28c gatorskins that I thought would be perfect for this bike won't clear the front caliper, I just put on a couple of 700x23c.

But, wrestling the back wheel back into the drop outs and putting the frame back on the work stand and before tightening the quick release, the non-drive side moves back and forth freely in the horizontal drop out, and the drive side doesn't want to budge. Perhaps the right side drop out is compressed? But doesn't explain how easily my track hub slips right in. Next time I pull the wheel back off I'll take a picture of drop outs and post. Another day when my back recovers.

Thanks for all the input. In the mean time for a Friday afternoon off, I'll move to something more relaxing like installing a new chain and adjusting the front and rear derailleurs with a bio-pace chain ring. Which should be a breeze compared to getting this wheel into the drop outs. I told my wife I wanted a crappy bike to work on, and I got it.
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Old 02-17-17, 02:21 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IamNed View Post
Thanks Clifford, I suppose I just want assurance that the dropout should be 126mm. If so, then I'll either leave it as is or consider a way to cold space it another couple mm.

2mm should be a breeze: Bicycle Frame/Hub Spacing Buy the calipers BEFORE you start.
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Old 02-17-17, 07:30 PM   #10
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You have a discrepancy of only 1 mm on each side. Maybe not optimum, but certainly within tolerance. You can re-space to 126, but the difficulty will be getting it even on each side. It may be that one side or the other is off, or less likely that both sides are equally off. I'd leave it the way it is if I were you. Cold setting is not difficult, but not overshooting the 1mm target will be challenging.
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Old 02-21-17, 01:12 PM   #11
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As a follow up, took the bike for it's maiden one mile voyage a few minutes ago. Other than dings and scratches and a tight rear wheel hub, rides very nice. Had a left over saddle from my Pista laying around, extra tires and tubes, lots of vinegar on parts, frozen seat tube, a new chain and some inexpensive tektro levers and bar wrap. Before and after...


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Old 02-21-17, 01:19 PM   #12
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Lots of frames of that era actually came 128mm to allow for 126 and 130 drive trains using the same frame.
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