Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-27-05, 02:06 AM   #1
Rashiki
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Rashiki's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: New York, NY
Bikes:
Posts: 57
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
When sanding before patching, how far do you sand down?

I'm a new rider and today was my first experience using patches. I used the Rema Tip Top patches and they seemed to work very well. My question is about the sanding procedure, though.

My understanding is that you need to sand so that the waxy coating is removed from the tubes because the manufacturers put it on to remove the tubes easily from the mold.

When looking at the tube, I can see the waxy layer. But when sanding I noticed that the shiny surface first turns a little white. Then if you sand a little further, that white layer goes away and you get a very dull surface, but can sometimes get a little bit of the rubber from the tube coming off if I go to hard.

My question is, am I supposed to stop at this first "white" layer, or am I supposed to go down to the dull looking layer? For my patches today I went all the way down to the dull layer and boy did they stick well, but I wondered if I went too far and weakened the tube in that area and possibly cause myself future potential problems?

Thanks for the help. I really appreciate it.

-Ryan
Rashiki is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-05, 03:05 AM   #2
MichaelW
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: England
Bikes:
Posts: 12,932
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
I just roughen up the surface with a few strokes. If the patch is on the mould join, I sand away the "flash" to give a smoothe surface.
MichaelW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-05, 11:31 AM   #3
Al1943
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Bikes: Trek 5500, Colnago C-50
Posts: 9,433
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
If the patch is going to fit over the tube's seam, and it most often does, I try to sand the seam down until the area to be patched is even. I would avoid sanding through any layers, I don't recall ever seeing any layers. With the tubes I use if I sanded through a layer there wouldn't be any tube left.

Al
Al1943 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-05, 11:49 AM   #4
dogbro
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Albuquerque
Bikes: 2 Cannondales
Posts: 87
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I keep an old fingernail file in my kit. I usually just take off the glossy surface unless I gotta remove the molding ridge which is more often than not. I never run with more than one patch on a tube.
dogbro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-05, 11:54 AM   #5
'nother
semifreddo amartuerer
 
'nother's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Northern CA
Bikes: several
Posts: 4,599
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I thought the point of "sanding" was really to roughen the area, to create more surface area for the glue to adhere to? Not really to make it "smooth"? Just curious.
'nother is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-05, 12:12 PM   #6
Avalanche325
Senior Member
 
Avalanche325's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Pasadena, CA
Bikes: Litespeed Firenze / GT Avalanche
Posts: 3,162
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
It is to roughen it a bit and mainly to clean it. So just scuff it up a little.
Avalanche325 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-05, 01:04 PM   #7
EnLaCalle
Radio Bemba 00.0
 
EnLaCalle's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Rocking the spot.
Bikes:
Posts: 866
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I don't think you should sweat it too bad. You ruff up the tube so you get a better adhesion surface for the glue and patch. I've always just gone back and forth over the hole maybe 5 or 6 seconds, trying to get an area a little bigger than the size of the patch I'm going to use.

Like I said, if the patch sticks and is sealed properly, don't worry about it. You don't need to scuff it up that much though, IMO.
EnLaCalle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-05, 01:55 PM   #8
SSSasky
Mo' Senior
 
SSSasky's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Ottawa, ON
Bikes: 1984 Norco Monterey SL (Ishwata 3X butted), matte black, 42-15 fixed
Posts: 371
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Sounds like you did it right to me.
SSSasky is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-05, 01:56 PM   #9
pedex 
dystopian member
 
pedex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Bikes:
Posts: 5,358
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Well, people make this mistake easily, maybe this will help.It isnt glue per se, its a solvent that for a brief time before its cured dissolves the rubber on the tube enough to bond with the patch.The waxy coating on the tube wont allow the solvent to do its job.If its been roughed up enough to be dull looking your good to go.The mold release on tubes is very thin, doesnt take much to scrub it off, but its thick enough to keep the solvent in the glue from working right.
pedex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-05, 02:10 PM   #10
Serbaside
Nameless
 
Serbaside's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Dallas, TX
Bikes: SS Road bike (nothing outstanding), Fixed Batavus (1970)
Posts: 219
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I found the Park Tools pre-glued patches work real well and I didn't do much sanding past cleaning the surface and scoring it a bit
Serbaside is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-05, 02:12 PM   #11
gilby
Senior Member
 
gilby's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Bikes: Bianchi Brava (fixed), Nishiki Prestige (fixed), Plum Vainqueur (track), Fuji Boulevard (Single-speed)
Posts: 520
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I don't sand very much, just go back and forth one way a few times, then back and forth perpendicular to that a few times so that the rough spot is just a bit larger than the patch.
gilby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-05, 04:14 PM   #12
beppe
robots in disguise
 
beppe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Baghdad-by-the-Bay
Bikes:
Posts: 305
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Serbaside
I found the Park Tools pre-glued patches work real well and I didn't do much sanding past cleaning the surface and scoring it a bit
Seriously? I've used these twice, and neither one held for more than 10 minutes.
beppe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-05, 05:00 PM   #13
Mr. Shadow
I need more bikes!!!
 
Mr. Shadow's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Durham, NC
Bikes: 2 roadies, 7 fixed-gears, 1 hardtail, 1 full suspension mtb, and 1 hybrid...so far.
Posts: 472
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/patching.html
Mr. Shadow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-05, 05:14 PM   #14
sakarias
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Juneau, AK
Bikes:
Posts: 201
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
>> "I never run with more than one patch on a tube."

Seems a bit extreme, to me. I am not bothered by several patches on a tube.
sakarias is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-05, 06:16 PM   #15
filtersweep
Senior Member
 
filtersweep's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Bikes:
Posts: 2,615
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Serbaside
I found the Park Tools pre-glued patches work real well and I didn't do much sanding past cleaning the surface and scoring it a bit
Those glueless patches are right up there with postage stamps, in my book. The work much better for mtn bike tubes.
filtersweep is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-05, 06:19 PM   #16
edp773
Senior Member
 
edp773's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Illinios
Bikes: 2004 Giant Cypress, 2006 Trek 7.3 FX, 2007 Gary Fisher Wahoo
Posts: 1,143
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
[It is to roughen it a bit and mainly to clean it. So just scuff it up a little.]
As an ex tire man, I agree 100% with Avalanche325. He stated the process perfectly.
edp773 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-05, 06:44 PM   #17
dobber
Perineal Pressurized
 
dobber's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: In Ebritated
Bikes:
Posts: 6,557
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by beppe
Seriously? I've used these twice, and neither one held for more than 10 minutes.
The trick is to make sure the area is very clean. Very, very, clean. I use to carry alcohol wipes which I'd use to wipe the area after buffing. Now I just use a Bell tire patch kit from that great American shopping emporium, Wally-World. They're only about $1.50, cheap enough to toss after use (opened solvent usually goes bad after a period of time).

Keep it all in a little pill bottle tucked in my bag.
__________________
This is Africa, 1943. War spits out its violence overhead and the sandy graveyard swallows it up. Her name is King Nine, B-25, medium bomber, Twelfth Air Force. On a hot, still morning she took off from Tunisia to bomb the southern tip of Italy. An errant piece of flak tore a hole in a wing tank and, like a wounded bird, this is where she landed, not to return on this day, or any other day.
dobber is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-05, 06:55 PM   #18
spinbackle
Senior Member
 
spinbackle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: SPS, Texas
Bikes:
Posts: 478
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Rema Tip Top patches are the best in my opinion. I've never had one come loose when applied properly. I'm running one of my tubes on the mtn bike with 11 patches on it .
spinbackle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-05, 09:11 PM   #19
G-Unit
I Am Online Now!
 
G-Unit's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: NYC
Bikes: Bianchi Pista, LeMond Poprad, Specialized Allez
Posts: 350
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I patched my first tube a few weeks ago and hardly sanded the tube, just a bit, larger than the area of the tube. No problems.
__________________
I rock peas on my head but donít call me a pea head.
Bees on my head but donít call me a bee head.
Bruce Leeís on my head but donít call me a Lee head.
Now please excuse me, I gots to get my tree fed.
G-Unit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-05, 09:46 AM   #20
manboy
The King of Town
 
manboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Richmond, VA
Bikes: Haro Backtrail 20" (MISSING), Fuji Berkeley fixie, Huffy cruisercommuterdeathmobile
Posts: 681
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Sounds good to me. I just scuff it up some until it looks kind of rough. So far, the tubes I've done like that are holding just fine.

Seconded on the glueless patches, too. I tried those when I rode BMX, and I found they had a tendency to blow out or not stick at all. Rema Tip-Top are where it's at.
manboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:37 AM.