Chosing a new right shifter/brake "combined lever"
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Chosing a new right shifter/brake "combined lever"
Hey all, I have very very little bike maintenance experience but would like to learn more!
I own a Fuji Nevada 1.0, probably a 2006 or 2007 model. Has disc brakes. Haven't ridden it since around 2009. At my university, they have a free bike mechanic service, so I brought it in yesterday. The bike had issues with consistent shifting.
The guys there did some adjustments of the cassette shifter cable (terminology?), but it still wouldn't shift onto the larger cassette rings. They popped off the cover on the right "hand shifter" and noticed some plastic "hooks" had sheared off. They diagnosed this failure as the cause of the remaining issues, and told me I needed to replace it.
The unit in question is a Shimano ST-EF35-8 - about $45 on ebay.
My question is... what is my best value option for replacing this unit? $45 seems a little steep. I can afford it if the "OEM part" is the best option, but I'm curious if there is something a little cheaper that will get the job done just all well or better? I imagine this one is a little pricey perhaps since it's a combined brake/shifter unit.
Thank you,
Eric
I own a Fuji Nevada 1.0, probably a 2006 or 2007 model. Has disc brakes. Haven't ridden it since around 2009. At my university, they have a free bike mechanic service, so I brought it in yesterday. The bike had issues with consistent shifting.
The guys there did some adjustments of the cassette shifter cable (terminology?), but it still wouldn't shift onto the larger cassette rings. They popped off the cover on the right "hand shifter" and noticed some plastic "hooks" had sheared off. They diagnosed this failure as the cause of the remaining issues, and told me I needed to replace it.
The unit in question is a Shimano ST-EF35-8 - about $45 on ebay.
My question is... what is my best value option for replacing this unit? $45 seems a little steep. I can afford it if the "OEM part" is the best option, but I'm curious if there is something a little cheaper that will get the job done just all well or better? I imagine this one is a little pricey perhaps since it's a combined brake/shifter unit.
Thank you,
Eric
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It may seem pricey but if you decided to buy a different separate shifter, then you also need to add the cost for a brake lever. SRAM 8 speed grip shifters can be had for abut $10 for just the right, or $19 for the pair (right and left) (see SRAM 3.0 Comp 7 & 8 Speed Grip Shifters > Components > Brakes & Shifters > Mountain Shifters | Jenson USA). Flat bar brake levers would cost at least $12.
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Any Shimano 8 speed shifter will work. If the brake is also to be combined then only "V" or Linear Pull brake spec will work there. Shimano has a few choices that meet this differing by details of shape and finish mostly (as increasing grades tend to be sleeker and nicer feeling).
Is the ebay one only one side or for a pair? The price is about right for a pair. Andy.
Is the ebay one only one side or for a pair? The price is about right for a pair. Andy.
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It may seem pricey but if you decided to buy a different separate shifter, then you also need to add the cost for a brake lever. SRAM 8 speed grip shifters can be had for abut $10 for just the right, or $19 for the pair (right and left) (see SRAM 3.0 Comp 7 & 8 Speed Grip Shifters > Components > Brakes & Shifters > Mountain Shifters | Jenson USA). Flat bar brake levers would cost at least $12.
SRAM MRX Comp Grip Shifter > Components > Brakes & Shifters > Mountain Shifters | Jenson USA
Another option if looking for a combined 8 speed shifter/brake is an Atlus M310. I have no experience with it. Saw one on Amazon for $19.
Last edited by u235; 05-06-17 at 10:55 AM.
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Amazon has a right/left ST-EF65-2A pair for under $40 with shipping, black or silver: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DVIMB0?th=1&psc=1
Last edited by dsbrantjr; 05-06-17 at 02:44 PM.
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[QUOTE=u235;19564433]The SRAM MRX, Centera, and Attack grip shifters are Shimano derailleur pull compatible, the other SRAM grip models like the 3.0 COMP are not.
Thank you u235 for the correction/clarification. I should have been more careful in linking to a SRAM grip shift that is compatible with Shimano rear derailleurs (which we expect the OP has to match his shifter).
Thank you u235 for the correction/clarification. I should have been more careful in linking to a SRAM grip shift that is compatible with Shimano rear derailleurs (which we expect the OP has to match his shifter).
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I am skeptical of the free clinic's diagnosis,
the indexing detent teeth inside the shifter are all steel, not plastic, and are unlikely to just break off.
the symptoms of shifting, but not to the largest cogs, is typical to the much more common problem of loss of cable tension -either due cable clamp slip, housing damage, or routing mistake.
possible derailer hanger misalignment.
Did they Check any of those More Common and Likely Causes before opening up the shifter pod and declaring it dead?
the indexing detent teeth inside the shifter are all steel, not plastic, and are unlikely to just break off.
the symptoms of shifting, but not to the largest cogs, is typical to the much more common problem of loss of cable tension -either due cable clamp slip, housing damage, or routing mistake.
possible derailer hanger misalignment.
Did they Check any of those More Common and Likely Causes before opening up the shifter pod and declaring it dead?
Last edited by xenologer; 05-06-17 at 11:38 PM.
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Shimano Altus M310 8-SPEED Brake/Shift > Components > Brakes & Shifters > Mountain Brakes & Shifters | Jenson USA
Yeah, and some of the cheap shimanos have plastic inside....just strong enough to last a few years. e.g. :
Yeah, and some of the cheap shimanos have plastic inside....just strong enough to last a few years. e.g. :
Last edited by Trevtassie; 05-06-17 at 11:47 PM.
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Good point xenologer. However, if I can confirm it is plastic teeth which have sheared (and they did show me this inside the mechanism, so I am fairly sure this is at least contributing), are there any models with more robust construction (IE metal teeth, etc) that you would recommend?
Thanks,
Eric
QUOTE=xenologer;19565516]I am skeptical of the free clinic's diagnosis,
the indexing detent teeth inside the shifter are all steel, not plastic, and are unlikely to just break off.
the symptoms of shifting, but not to the largest cogs, is typical to the much more common problem of loss of cable tension -either due cable clamp slip, housing damage, or routing mistake.
possible derailer hanger misalignment.
Did they Check any of those More Common and Likely Causes before opening up the shifter pod and declaring it dead?[/QUOTE]
Thanks,
Eric
QUOTE=xenologer;19565516]I am skeptical of the free clinic's diagnosis,
the indexing detent teeth inside the shifter are all steel, not plastic, and are unlikely to just break off.
the symptoms of shifting, but not to the largest cogs, is typical to the much more common problem of loss of cable tension -either due cable clamp slip, housing damage, or routing mistake.
possible derailer hanger misalignment.
Did they Check any of those More Common and Likely Causes before opening up the shifter pod and declaring it dead?[/QUOTE]
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Hard to find quality 8 speed shifters now days, except for NOS (which are normally pricey- or used) Try your local bike kitchen...
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