Wrapping bar tape
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: NW Peloponnese, Greece
Posts: 548
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 112 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 25 Times
in
22 Posts
Wrapping bar tape
I wrap my tape by starting at the top, tucking the start end underneath the tape, and ending at the bottom.
This way I avoid using the sticky tape which sometimes loosens with wear etc.
I know this is not the conventional way to wrap bar tape, but the only disadvantage of starting on the top is if you need to replace shifter or brake cables you have to remove all the tape otherwise you just remove it up to the shifter.
Views are appreciated.
This way I avoid using the sticky tape which sometimes loosens with wear etc.
I know this is not the conventional way to wrap bar tape, but the only disadvantage of starting on the top is if you need to replace shifter or brake cables you have to remove all the tape otherwise you just remove it up to the shifter.
Views are appreciated.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: western Massachusetts (greater Springfield area)
Posts: 699
Bikes: Velosolex St. Tropez, LeMond Zurich (spine bike), Rotator swb recumbent
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 67 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 67 Times
in
32 Posts
I find that when I ride, my hand pressure is out and down. Wrapping it your way, I pull up the edges of the tape. Wrapping from the ends up, the overlap is the other way, and not a problem.
#3
Senior Member
+1 bottom to top. keeps the tape from gapping on the top corner from my hand pressure
#4
It's MY mountain
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Mt.Diablo
Posts: 10,001
Bikes: Klein, Merckx, Trek
Mentioned: 70 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4334 Post(s)
Liked 2,977 Times
in
1,614 Posts
#5
Sr Member on Sr bikes
I wrap my tape by starting at the top, tucking the start end underneath the tape, and ending at the bottom.
This way I avoid using the sticky tape which sometimes loosens with wear etc.
I know this is not the conventional way to wrap bar tape, but the only disadvantage of starting on the top is if you need to replace shifter or brake cables you have to remove all the tape otherwise you just remove it up to the shifter.
Views are appreciated.
This way I avoid using the sticky tape which sometimes loosens with wear etc.
I know this is not the conventional way to wrap bar tape, but the only disadvantage of starting on the top is if you need to replace shifter or brake cables you have to remove all the tape otherwise you just remove it up to the shifter.
Views are appreciated.
Dan
#6
Senior Member
I know I am new to this (hence the large red "Newbie" label under my name), but isn't trim tape nothing more than electrical tape? I just re wrapped my bars yesterday an used straight up electrical tape because I wanted to wrap it really well and the supplied 4 inches of trim tape that came with the wrap wasn't enough.
#7
It's MY mountain
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Mt.Diablo
Posts: 10,001
Bikes: Klein, Merckx, Trek
Mentioned: 70 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4334 Post(s)
Liked 2,977 Times
in
1,614 Posts
I know I am new to this (hence the large red "Newbie" label under my name), but isn't trim tape nothing more than electrical tape? I just re wrapped my bars yesterday an used straight up electrical tape because I wanted to wrap it really well and the supplied 4 inches of trim tape that came with the wrap wasn't enough.
#8
Sr Member on Sr bikes
Electrical tape adhesive gets really soft when it gets warm...like on a hot summer day, and/or when it's been warmed by your hands. That causes it to come un-stuck usually. The trim tape that comes with the bar tape (usually) has an adhesive that is stickier, and doesn't get that way. And they only give a few inches per side because if everything is done correctly that's all you should need.
Dan
Dan
#9
Banned
+1) I've been in the bottom to top Clan for 30 + years.. (I use bar end shifters)
You can seek out Self Fusing tape to finish it.
You can seek out Self Fusing tape to finish it.
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: NW Peloponnese, Greece
Posts: 548
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 112 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 25 Times
in
22 Posts
I've never had a problem with the bar tape loosening. I always wrap it from back to front on top so the hand pressure doesn't loosen it.
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 12,890
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
Mentioned: 129 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4789 Post(s)
Liked 3,915 Times
in
2,546 Posts
I go bottom to top, use electrical tape to finish. I rarely rife with my hand that far in so it getting soft in hot weather in not much of an issue and it is so cheap, replacing it isn't a big deal.
One thing I do obsess over is how I wrap it. The bar tape itself I wrap as follows - I start from the right side bar end counter clockwise looking from the rear, left side opposite so the tape comes across the top of the bar end pointing in. I wrap the electrical tape in the same direction as the bar tape, three times around and finish just behind the brake cable under the tops. That way the tape is coming over the tops pointing back and my wrists tend to tighten both the bar tape and electrical tape when I pull on them hill climbing on the tops.
Ben
One thing I do obsess over is how I wrap it. The bar tape itself I wrap as follows - I start from the right side bar end counter clockwise looking from the rear, left side opposite so the tape comes across the top of the bar end pointing in. I wrap the electrical tape in the same direction as the bar tape, three times around and finish just behind the brake cable under the tops. That way the tape is coming over the tops pointing back and my wrists tend to tighten both the bar tape and electrical tape when I pull on them hill climbing on the tops.
Ben
Likes For 79pmooney:
#13
It's MY mountain
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Mt.Diablo
Posts: 10,001
Bikes: Klein, Merckx, Trek
Mentioned: 70 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4334 Post(s)
Liked 2,977 Times
in
1,614 Posts
The way I remember this is that wherever your thumbs point where you grab the bars, that's the direction the tape should wrap at that location.
Likes For DiabloScott:
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 12,890
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
Mentioned: 129 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4789 Post(s)
Liked 3,915 Times
in
2,546 Posts
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Bozeman
Posts: 4,094
Bikes: 199? Landshark Roadshark, 198? Mondonico Diamond, 1987 Panasonic DX-5000, 1987 Bianchi Limited, Univega... Chrome..., 1989 Schwinn Woodlands, Motobecane USA Record, Raleigh Tokul 2
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1131 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
On the drops, it's opposite of what you say. Think about it, if you're in the drops you are twisting OUT (down on the outside of the bar), therefore the bars need to be wrapped in that direction. When you on the tops you're twisting DOWN (like a motorcycle throttle), therefore the bars need to be wrapped in that direction.
In the latter, the bars are wrapped in the direction of you thumbs, in the former, it's opposite.
You always wrap in the direction that you grip or the direction that the force is going. So if the force is going clockwise (in the drops on the right hand side) that's how you wrap. If you wrap it the other way, you are effectively "unravelling" the wrap when you REALLY grip the bars.
Also, a trick to keep the finishing tape (at the top) from unraveling is to heat up the end of a spoke with a lighter, then burn in two short "slots" into the tape (with the hot end of the spoke). It'll melt all the layers of the tape together and make it near impossible to unravel.
Lastly, a trick if you crash a lot and tear up your bar tape. Wrap the bar FIRST with electrical tape INSIDE OUT. So wrap with the sticky side UP, not down. Then wrap the bar normally with bar tape. Now whenever you tear your bar tape it'll stay put because it'll be attached to the upside down tape underneath of it.
I follow this site when I get confused. As far as I know, it's the "correct" way to wrap bar tape. But of course, to each their own.
EDIT: This site goes over wrapping the RIGHT side of the bars. That confused me at first. On the left side it wouldn't be clockwise, it'd be counterclockwise at the bottom.
https://www.condorcycles.com/blogs/j...tape-perfectly
EDIT: Reading through that site, I've found I don't follow it exactly. They do the finishing tape differently. I wrap the finishing tape in the same direction as the bar tape, they seem to do the opposite, which is weird. I also don't overlap the finishing tape over the edge of the bar tape. I leave the edge naked (unless it's a light colored tape, then I'll color it with a black sharpie.) So basically the edge of the finishing tape lines up with the edge of the bar tape. I always finish the finishing tape on the front bottom of the bars, so I don't see it when riding, and I'm unlikely to ever touch that part of the bars as well.
Last edited by corrado33; 05-16-17 at 02:37 PM.
#16
It's MY mountain
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Mt.Diablo
Posts: 10,001
Bikes: Klein, Merckx, Trek
Mentioned: 70 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4334 Post(s)
Liked 2,977 Times
in
1,614 Posts
That's actually incorrect, as much as I fear to disagree with Scott.
On the drops, it's opposite of what you say. Think about it, if you're in the drops you are twisting OUT (down on the outside of the bar), therefore the bars need to be wrapped in that direction. When you on the tops you're twisting DOWN (like a motorcycle throttle), therefore the bars need to be wrapped in that direction.
On the drops, it's opposite of what you say. Think about it, if you're in the drops you are twisting OUT (down on the outside of the bar), therefore the bars need to be wrapped in that direction. When you on the tops you're twisting DOWN (like a motorcycle throttle), therefore the bars need to be wrapped in that direction.
Yeah, on the drops (below the brakes) it could go either way... that is it generally goes both ways. It seems to me that I pull in on them more than pushing out. Do not fear disagreeing with me - HA!
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Bozeman
Posts: 4,094
Bikes: 199? Landshark Roadshark, 198? Mondonico Diamond, 1987 Panasonic DX-5000, 1987 Bianchi Limited, Univega... Chrome..., 1989 Schwinn Woodlands, Motobecane USA Record, Raleigh Tokul 2
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1131 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Interesting, I most certainly twist OUT when in the drops. I suppose it's personal preference!
#18
- Soli Deo Gloria -
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Northwest Georgia
Posts: 14,779
Bikes: 2018 Rodriguez Custom Fixed Gear, 2017 Niner RLT 9 RDO, 2015 Bianchi Pista, 2002 Fuji Robaix
Mentioned: 235 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6844 Post(s)
Liked 736 Times
in
469 Posts
I wrap my bars the way I used to see racers wrap their bars back in the 70's.
They changed their tape often enough that they didn't worry about direction too much unless it became a problem and used as little tape as possible.
And they never bothered with the extra piece under the brake hood. They just left a gap. They called it cleavage, and it is sexy as hell.
They changed their tape often enough that they didn't worry about direction too much unless it became a problem and used as little tape as possible.
And they never bothered with the extra piece under the brake hood. They just left a gap. They called it cleavage, and it is sexy as hell.
#19
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Newington, CT
Posts: 5
Bikes: Schwinns
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Anyone use those new gel pads I saw that you put on the top of the bar before you wrap it? Just wondering how effective they are. On my past centuries I put two layers of foam pipe insulation over the top of the bars. It doesn't even last the whole day but helps a little.
#20
Heft On Wheels
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 3,123
Bikes: Specialized,Cannondale,Argon 18
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 887 Post(s)
Liked 560 Times
in
346 Posts
Anyone use those new gel pads I saw that you put on the top of the bar before you wrap it? Just wondering how effective they are. On my past centuries I put two layers of foam pipe insulation over the top of the bars. It doesn't even last the whole day but helps a little.
I just double wrap the tops. Its easy, buy some cheap as you can find cork/bar tape, then wrap the tops only. I go from the hoods to the stem but I don't overlap it because then it gets to thick IMO. I keep it flat on the first wrap then lizard skins on the actual finished wrap and I got nothing but comfort!
#21
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 4,764
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1975 Post(s)
Liked 232 Times
in
173 Posts
That's actually incorrect, as much as I fear to disagree with Scott.
On the drops, it's opposite of what you say. Think about it, if you're in the drops you are twisting OUT (down on the outside of the bar), therefore the bars need to be wrapped in that direction. When you on the tops you're twisting DOWN (like a motorcycle throttle), therefore the bars need to be wrapped in that direction.
On the drops, it's opposite of what you say. Think about it, if you're in the drops you are twisting OUT (down on the outside of the bar), therefore the bars need to be wrapped in that direction. When you on the tops you're twisting DOWN (like a motorcycle throttle), therefore the bars need to be wrapped in that direction.
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 14,742
Bikes: Yes
Mentioned: 525 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3230 Post(s)
Liked 3,863 Times
in
1,439 Posts
I know I am new to this (hence the large red "Newbie" label under my name), but isn't trim tape nothing more than electrical tape? I just re wrapped my bars yesterday an used straight up electrical tape because I wanted to wrap it really well and the supplied 4 inches of trim tape that came with the wrap wasn't enough.
__________________
My Bikes
My Bikes
Likes For Andy_K:
#24
Advocatus Diaboli
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Wherever I am
Posts: 8,631
Bikes: Merlin Cyrene, Nashbar steel CX
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4729 Post(s)
Liked 1,531 Times
in
1,002 Posts
#25
Experienced
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,039
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
ALWAYS top to bottom; much cleaner and easier, and it doesn't roll if you use a quality professional tape such as Fizik Superlight. That tape can last for years!