Dual Pivot Caliper Replacements for Shimano 600
#1
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Dual Pivot Caliper Replacements for Shimano 600
It's an 89 Trek 660. I want to get rid of the Shimano 600 Calipers. Any ideas on suitable dual pivot replacements. I have an idea on a few, but just want to make sure I don't buy something that won't fit. I don't need long reach.
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My '83 Trek 311 came with relatively cheap Dia-Compe brakes. Upgrading to the basic entry level Tektro dual calipers was like night and day. It took a bit of sorting part numbers to find what I needed in terms of reach and bolt type (external nut or hidden). But I'm extremely happy with those brakes, which are now on yet another bike.
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Assuming you can use brakes with recessed nuts, Shimano 5500, 5700,6500,6600,7700 and 7800 all can be nice silver, use cartridge pads and are readily available on Ebay. Buying new, several models of Tektros are fine but their numbering can be confusing. Check their website. Koolstop pads, of course.
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is there an issue with the Shimano 600 calipers? they are great brakes... equivalent to the more modern Ultegra line...
have you installed new pads yet? Kool Stop padswork great, as will the Shimano Ultegra pads.
shimano 105 or Ultegra will be a good replacement choice.
have you installed new pads yet? Kool Stop padswork great, as will the Shimano Ultegra pads.
shimano 105 or Ultegra will be a good replacement choice.
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Getting back to the original question... What specific reach, in millimeters, do you need? Brakes come in a lot more sizing variations than "standard" and "long" reach. And do you need nutted or recessed mounting? Sheldon Brown's site describes and illustrates the difference HERE.
Last edited by SkyDog75; 06-22-17 at 06:43 AM.
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That depends on which 600 brakes we're talking about. Old 600 single pivots, for example, were nowhere near that good. The ones you're likely to be find on an '89 Trek, like these, should be pretty good, though. But not quite as nice as the dual pivot 600's that followed in '91.
Getting back to the original question... What specific reach, in millimeters, do you need? Brakes come in a lot more sizing variations than "standard" and "long" reach. And do you need nutted or recessed mounting? Sheldon Brown's site describes and illustrates the difference HERE.
Getting back to the original question... What specific reach, in millimeters, do you need? Brakes come in a lot more sizing variations than "standard" and "long" reach. And do you need nutted or recessed mounting? Sheldon Brown's site describes and illustrates the difference HERE.
the Tektro dual pivots that fit your application will be a marked improvement.
#7
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front is where the braking power is, so get that one, rear less important..
Pro Campagnolo intentionally pairs a dual and single pivot brake,
Pro Campagnolo intentionally pairs a dual and single pivot brake,
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Modern 105s will be everything you need.
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I agree that upgrading single pivot calipers with modern dual pivot will be a huge upgrade. I've done this upgrade on both my own and more recently my wife's commuter bike. The reach is the most important thing, and then the mounting bolt. My wife has a ~89-90 year Trek 420, which is a touring frame with a triple crank, and reach WAS a problem. The newer Shimano 105 (5800) calipers that I installed have more reach than the older (5600-5700) series calipers, and it allowed them to barely work. I had to shave the edge of the pad down, and now have to keep a close eye on the pads to make sure they are not rubbing. When it comes time for new pads, I may buy the offset pad holders from BDop Cycling Co. They are the only one's I know of in existence, and they are overpriced, which is why I didn't get them originally.
The second problem that I ran into was the internal nut mount. Thankfully the brake bridge has a square brake mount integrated into it that was thick enough to use use an internal nut in without bottoming out, but I had to open up the hole to fit the internal nut. Because the seat tube is in the way, I had to "hand drill" the hole with gloved hands/pliers drill bit to slowly shave material away until I could step it out to the right size. It was a pain, but worth it in the end.
If you have a chance to get some new shimano 5800 calipers, I would highly recommend them. The slightly longer reach (without being true long reach) will very likely help, and these newest shimano brakes are exceptional.
-Jeremy
The second problem that I ran into was the internal nut mount. Thankfully the brake bridge has a square brake mount integrated into it that was thick enough to use use an internal nut in without bottoming out, but I had to open up the hole to fit the internal nut. Because the seat tube is in the way, I had to "hand drill" the hole with gloved hands/pliers drill bit to slowly shave material away until I could step it out to the right size. It was a pain, but worth it in the end.
If you have a chance to get some new shimano 5800 calipers, I would highly recommend them. The slightly longer reach (without being true long reach) will very likely help, and these newest shimano brakes are exceptional.
-Jeremy
#11
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The 600 single pivots suck. Pretty standard reach. I will get a pic up of the front, and rear on the 660. The last thing I want to do is drill anything.
I was trying to bid on some new Shimano Calipers and forgot about the confirm bid. I sell on Ebay all the time, but never bid on anything. Oh well. There are plenty of Calipers on there. And they are recessed.
I was trying to bid on some new Shimano Calipers and forgot about the confirm bid. I sell on Ebay all the time, but never bid on anything. Oh well. There are plenty of Calipers on there. And they are recessed.
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Tektro is the cheapest and easiest solution. If you take it to your LBS they should be able to help you select the correct size!
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Here's hoping you guess right on the reach. (It would only take a few seconds with a ruler to know for certain before you buy calipers that may or may not fit.)
#16
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2 Inch from the center bolt to the center of the rim on the front. 50.8 MM
Last edited by StarBiker; 06-22-17 at 08:10 PM.
#18
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I did find the reach on performance bikes web site. Yep, 49 CM.
Anyway I guess this would be considered a long reach.
Thanks for your input.
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20-30 years ago, 52mm was considered a standard reach. Now, it's a medium reach.
The Shimano BR-650 has a 47-57mm reach. Also, the Tektro R539, Nashbar, etc.
Older frames had clearances for fenders.
A long reach is more than 57mm.
Last edited by Barabaika; 06-22-17 at 10:49 PM.
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These are Tiagra short reach calipers on my Trek 660. (I invented the gravel grinder by jamming the skinniest knobbies I could find in there.)
#22
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Isn't a frame like that uncomfortable for that type of riding. (I still wish I kept the 750 Multitrak I had)
I just don't want to drill the frame to get the R451's on.
I will find out in a week.
Last edited by StarBiker; 06-23-17 at 07:03 AM.
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No, I never thought it was uncomfortable. I bought the 660 frameset to build up as a fixed gear for the road. If you look closely you can see the bare cable bosses on the downtube.
Then later I thought it would be fun to try SSCX racing so I got the Kenda Kwick knobbies as an experiment. They're labeled as 30mm but are more like 28. Worked just fine in dry September dust. Not so well in November mud. The next year I got a proper CX bike.
Then later I thought it would be fun to try SSCX racing so I got the Kenda Kwick knobbies as an experiment. They're labeled as 30mm but are more like 28. Worked just fine in dry September dust. Not so well in November mud. The next year I got a proper CX bike.
#24
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Also it helped immensely that I lubricated the inside of the brake levers. Now why I did not think of this before I can't tell you. Never had to do it before.
Still ordered the dual pivots.
Still ordered the dual pivots.