bdogg

In previous experiences, I've always adjusted the steer headset just tight enough that the bars/front wheel don't flop from side to side. This means just a touch of resistance in the bearings.


I'm I doing it right? This is on a 1 1/8" threaded steerer.


It seems that if I adjust with no resistance, the bike seems to be a little twitchy.

HillRider

The recommended way to adjust headsets is to have the bike on it's wheels and apply the front brake firmly. Then attempt to rock the bike fore-and-aft. If there is any play in the headset, tighten it until the play is just eliminated and lock in that adjustment with the locknut (threaded) or stem clamp (threadless). Some headset manufactures recommend adding a slight bit of preload (5 or so inch-pounds) for headsets with cartridge bearings.

You don't want any play in the headset but no significant drag either.

bdogg

Hill,
Thanks for the reply! It would have been a bit difficult to apply the front brake, as this is a 29" Beachcruiser, but I just happen to have just installed a caliper brake to the front!!


I'll try your suggestion and let you know.


Is there any other reason the bike feels twitchy in the steering? Anything I can look for?

ramzilla

BITD some riders would over tighten a threaded headset until the bearings made dents for "brinnelled" or indexed steering. I wouldn't recommend doing this at home unless you have a bike stand that can keep the front wheel in perfect alignment. If you index the steering even slightly off 0 degrees that can be a real problem.

cpach

To be clear, in the best of all worlds the fork would rotate effortlessly. On low quality or damaged headsets, the correct headset adjustment may have some or even a fair amount of resistance. The correct adjustment is smallest amount of preload that produces zero play. Many cruisers come with poor headsets, and the bearings are often insufficiently greased. The steering problems you describe may be because a free rotating adjustment actually has some play in it. If working on a bike without a front brake, you can aggressively lever the handlebars with the bike in the stand and feel for any play at the headset with your other hand.

velocentrik

You're going to cause premature bearing race wear and "index" your steering doing that. The twitchy handling is a function of the style of frame, rim size, tire size, tire pressure...but mostly the headtube angle, take and trail.

ThermionicScott 

Alternatively, you can turn the front wheel 90° so that it can't roll when you wiggle the bike fore and aft.

okane

"touch of resistance in the bearings" to me means too tight.

With proper adjustment it should move smoothly with no drag, notches or looseness as described above.

Sometimes it comes easy and sometimes it take multiple tries or sometimes not at all with defective or incorrectly installed parts. Look at bearing race condition and race/head tube orientation or bearing orientation if caged

If at first you don't succeed, try, try again. If persistence doesn't work try to find a knowledgeable friend or take to lbs.

bdogg

Guys, thanks for all the responses. I did find quite a bit of play in the steerer and adjusted the bearings in small increments until there was no noticeable play and no resistance. It seems to be considerably better. I'll report back after I get a chance to ride it.


I work daily on multi million dollar refrigeration and mechanical systems, as well as motorcycles and my own vehicles. I pride myself in being able to sort out pretty much anything mechanical. In my younger days I was the neighborhood bike mechanic. Its been a few years, but with the help of the great wealth of knowledge here, I'm looking forward to getting back into the sport.


Dogg