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Ultegra DI2 Dead after shipping?

Old 07-13-17, 03:16 PM
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Ultegra DI2 Dead after shipping?

Hey. I am on a trip and shipped my bike. When I arrived and put my bike together the DI2 is totally dead. I can't get a status of the battery, no lights. . .I took the seat tube off and checked that the cable was connected to the seat tube batter and it was. I tried plugging it into the charger and nothing. . no lights on the charger.

Any ideas?
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Old 07-13-17, 03:36 PM
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Also. . should the charger lights light up if it is not attached to the bike? I don't remember. . .if I plug it into wall but not bike should any of it light up? thanks.
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Old 07-13-17, 05:13 PM
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You shipped a bike...have you verified all the connectors are seated?

Which charger and which Di2 system?
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Old 07-13-17, 06:08 PM
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Being that you said you checked the seat tube for the battery connection, I'm going to assume you have an internally routed frame? You may need to pull the cranks to check the B junction in the bottom bracket area. I'm willing to bet that a wire came loose there, since it is between the battery (definitely connected) and the A junction.
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Old 07-13-17, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by acrafton
Also. . should the charger lights light up if it is not attached to the bike? I don't remember. . .if I plug it into wall but not bike should any of it light up? thanks.
My SMBCR-2 charger has no lights when plugged into a USB wall adapter, and not attached to the bike.

~~~~
Troubleshooting
More details, please.

This is the internal battery mounted inside the seatpost?

Did you remove the seatpost and unplug the battery when the bike was boxed for shipping? If not, it's odd that the internal wiring would be affected. It's not going to get any more stress than hitting a pothole while riding.

Did you remove the stem or bars to pack the bike? Unplug any cables to the junction box under the stem?

The small plastic Di2 cable tool helps to pull and to seat the plugs, which have to go in with a definite "click"

Last edited by rm -rf; 07-13-17 at 08:08 PM.
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Old 07-14-17, 11:32 AM
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To answer the questions...

I have checked all the connections that are visible...handlebars and fron and rear derailleur

Ultegra di2 6870 and the charger that came with it

It is internally routed

The seat was removed and wire disconnected. The handlebar was removed but not disconnected.

Thanks
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Old 12-30-18, 02:37 PM
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hello same happened to me twice overseas flight from miami di2 dead had to change dont know what they do
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Old 12-30-18, 05:54 PM
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Possibly a shifter got pushed and set a derailleur into a shift position when the chain couldn’t move. The derailer will keep trying and run the battery down. So likely a dead battery. Try a charge for a while, maybe it’ll come back.

I’ve read to disconnect the battery prior to long distance trips.
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Old 12-30-18, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by acrafton
To answer the questions...

I have checked all the connections that are visible...handlebars and fron and rear derailleur

Ultegra di2 6870 and the charger that came with it

It is internally routed

The seat was removed and wire disconnected. The handlebar was removed but not disconnected.

Thanks
I have that charger. The light goes out when it is charged. There is also an error status light, so if something is wrong, it flashes. So if you saw nothing, presumably your battery is charged and healthy.
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Old 12-30-18, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by rm -rf
Did you remove the seatpost and unplug the battery when the bike was boxed for shipping? If not, it's odd that the internal wiring would be affected. It's not going to get any more stress than hitting a pothole while riding.
Well, actually... I'm pretty sure hitting potholes doesn't involve large doses of cosmic radiation.

It seems like a pretty unlikely scenario, but I'd say it's definitely a possibility.
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Old 09-02-20, 02:56 AM
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Same Issue

I shipped my bike with Ultegra R8050 Di2, wired through the frame, by boat and disconnected the battery and junction box.
After rewiring I have the same issue: no lights on the junction box on the steering wheel. Not even when plugging in the charger. Could be the B-junction in the bottom bracket that somehow got disconnected? Battery is dead? junction box?

I was wondering if you did end up solving this issue?
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Old 09-02-20, 07:46 AM
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Highly unlikely that anything got disconnected inside the frame. As mentioned, check all connections...junction box, rear derailleur, front derailleur, unwrap your bar tape and check connection in each brifter. If your handle bars were removed it's more likely that the connection in the R or L brifter was pulled out (or pulled out just enough where it wasn't making contact) if you didn't have enough slack built in when wrapping your bar tape. If you didn't wrap your bar tape, it's likely that whoever built your bike did not allow enough slack. Slack is built in so if you ever crashed and the brifter was twisted, it wouldn't get disconnected and you could just straighten out the brifter.
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Old 09-02-20, 07:47 AM
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If you have a laptop with you or access to a computer - plug the charger into the junction A and then run e-tube project for Windows. The 'connection check' (e-tube 3.4.5) will tell you what components are connected (and thus also what components it can not find).
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Old 09-02-20, 09:34 AM
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I too would recommend loading e-tube project on your computer. Then see what you get. It'll have a graphic showing all the pieces parts and if they are connected.

I'll always recommend you make certain to disconnect the battery and carry it in your carry on luggage or if internal battery, disconnect it at the front and rear DR's to limit as much as possible any chance something might go awry. Having been a airline captain, fires in the baggage compartment are frightening. And while they are even more frightening in the cabin and cockpit, at least you have a means to deal with small ones before they become big ones. Not to mention they'll be noticed.

As for e-tube project, I've seen some that say the phone app is buggy for them. I don't know. I hate using my phone for anything other than talk, text and taking pictures. So I only have experience with the app on my win 10 desktop computer. It works well, but some of it's ways of getting around and what it's actually trying to show you take some getting used to.

It's a great way to see and help you understand what is going on. Just don't go making changes until you are understanding what you are doing.

https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/e-tube/project.html

https://bettershifting.com/
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Old 09-02-20, 10:08 AM
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Thanks everyone. I double checked all cabling which all seemed to be plugged in right.

I managed to solve it now after doing some more digging. When the battery is completely dead it needs enough ampere to get the battery started - 3.5A was advised, iphone plugs dont have enough. If the battery is not completely empty lower ampere wall plugs charge it just fine.

Now it works again.


I'll be sure to take the battery out next time.
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Old 09-02-20, 03:29 PM
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One other aspect to the software, make sure you finalize any changes in the system on the software, can't recall
the precise terminology but the software has to be told it is done before you disconnect or the system is bricked,
at least until you reconnect and REDO everything and properly close it down.

Thanks for the followup about the battery. That may explain my one ride start failure a few years ago.
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Old 01-08-21, 03:29 PM
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What did you use to get 3.5A? Every USB adapter I have appears to be about 2A.... Thanks.
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