Seatpost shims: OK solution or not?
#1
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Seatpost shims: OK solution or not?
Looking at possibly shimming a 27.2 seatpost to a 29.8 hole. Cane Creek makes a shim thats 100mm long. Thought I would use 2 of them and cut the collar off one so that there would be more seatpost in the seat tube.
Your thoughts?
Your thoughts?
Last edited by XXLHardrock; 08-14-17 at 04:27 PM.
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...I don't like them, personally won't use them. But if you are going to do so, extending the length of it would be the way to go.
My issue is that there is so much going on in the seat post / seat tube interface that I don't want to further complicate things, and that you can buy the proper sized, relatively functional and well made seat post online for less than 20 bucks if you go with one of the Kalloy posts.... so why bother.
...I don't like them, personally won't use them. But if you are going to do so, extending the length of it would be the way to go.
My issue is that there is so much going on in the seat post / seat tube interface that I don't want to further complicate things, and that you can buy the proper sized, relatively functional and well made seat post online for less than 20 bucks if you go with one of the Kalloy posts.... so why bother.
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No Problem. In fact my Giant mountain bike came standard with a seatpost shim. Most shims are the length of the safe insert point on most seatposts.
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I don't understand the part about using two shims - how would you keep the one without the collar from slipping off?
Otherwise, if you have the perfect shim size it's a fine solution and you'll probably forget it's even in there.
Otherwise, if you have the perfect shim size it's a fine solution and you'll probably forget it's even in there.
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Shim is fine, But only use ONE that is the correct size
don't try and double up because it's the wrong thickness.
for one, the curvature will be wrong....
and cutting the collar off, I'd worry about it slipping down.
don't try and double up because it's the wrong thickness.
for one, the curvature will be wrong....
and cutting the collar off, I'd worry about it slipping down.
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There's no reason to double up on the shims. They're longer than the minimum insertion depth so you'll get no benefit from the second, lower one.
Your post in a 100mm shim (3 diameters +) is the same as any post inserted 3 or more inches into any frame. These guidelines aren't pulled from thin air, and are based on the depth where close to 100% of the theoretical strength is attained. Or to put it another way, there's no gain (none, zero, zip nada) in support or rigidity if you go deeper.
Your post in a 100mm shim (3 diameters +) is the same as any post inserted 3 or more inches into any frame. These guidelines aren't pulled from thin air, and are based on the depth where close to 100% of the theoretical strength is attained. Or to put it another way, there's no gain (none, zero, zip nada) in support or rigidity if you go deeper.
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#7
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I don't understand the part about using two shims
There's no reason to double up on the shims
they used a Kalloy Uno post that slipped its toothed angle grip,, AKA craptastic.. it had to go..
I had left from my prior AlAn frame .. they have a 25.0 seat tube ID. For that bike I bought a Campagnolo Seat Post..
sold the AlAn, to use that post in another bike, for a while, I got a 25.0 to 27.2 machined shim made by the British USE company.
It later went in a drawer, and was retrieved to put inside the 27.2 ID shim , with the seat post ..the post a Campag super record
A much better execution of design, its 1 bolt design does not slip .. it now works well ..
Both are machined, with a lip.. this is not what I understand the OP is thinking of..
perhaps they want to hire a shim machined that is 200mm long?
....
Last edited by fietsbob; 08-14-17 at 10:17 PM.
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There's no reason to double up on the shims. They're longer than the minimum insertion depth so you'll get no benefit from the second, lower one.
Your post in a 100mm shim (3 diameters +) is the same as any post inserted 3 or more inches into any frame. These guidelines aren't pulled from thin air, and are based on the depth where close to 100% of the theoretical strength is attained. Or to put it another way, there's no gain (none, zero, zip nada) in support or rigidity if you go deeper.
Your post in a 100mm shim (3 diameters +) is the same as any post inserted 3 or more inches into any frame. These guidelines aren't pulled from thin air, and are based on the depth where close to 100% of the theoretical strength is attained. Or to put it another way, there's no gain (none, zero, zip nada) in support or rigidity if you go deeper.
Other than not having to cut the post, it's a good reason for keeping a post long, if you're interested in further stiffening what is already one of the stiffer tubes in the frame.
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how much will those shims cost? a decent post of the correct size is like maybe $20.
and the frame's seat tube is plenty strong enough without a seat tube rammed all the way down into it... first time you re-adjust seat height, the trimmed shim will be forever lost into the frame... bad plan.
one shim is fine,,,, two is a joke, plain and simple.
and the frame's seat tube is plenty strong enough without a seat tube rammed all the way down into it... first time you re-adjust seat height, the trimmed shim will be forever lost into the frame... bad plan.
one shim is fine,,,, two is a joke, plain and simple.
Last edited by maddog34; 08-14-17 at 11:53 PM.
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...this makes little sense. A long seatpost inserted into a seat tube will increase the stiffness (rigidity) of the seat tube/seat post combination for whatever distance it is inserted. (If it is the correct size and slip fit in the the seat tube). If you are talking about something else, like the rigidity of the seat post and saddle position, that's a different horse color.
Other than not having to cut the post, it's a good reason for keeping a post long, if you're interested in further stiffening what is already one of the stiffer tubes in the frame.
Other than not having to cut the post, it's a good reason for keeping a post long, if you're interested in further stiffening what is already one of the stiffer tubes in the frame.
In any case, frames and posts are (supposed to be) engineered such that the worst case (tall seat post inserted the minimum amount) functions well withing the design objective. If the designers were counting on any boost in stiffness from post/tube overlap, they'd shortchanging their taller and/or heavier riders who need that added stiffness the most.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#11
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Thanks for all the replies.
The thought of using two shims was to use them end to end with a longer than necessary seatpost in order to hopefully strengthen the whole assembly.
The whole reason for going down this road is that I need a 29.8 post with sufficient length and enough setback to accommodate the short rails/ adjustment range of a Brooks saddle.
What I'm looking for is easily found in a 27.2 diameter but in a 29.8, not so much. Not at all actually. Except for the OEM post which works but has a reputation for bending.
The thought of using two shims was to use them end to end with a longer than necessary seatpost in order to hopefully strengthen the whole assembly.
The whole reason for going down this road is that I need a 29.8 post with sufficient length and enough setback to accommodate the short rails/ adjustment range of a Brooks saddle.
What I'm looking for is easily found in a 27.2 diameter but in a 29.8, not so much. Not at all actually. Except for the OEM post which works but has a reputation for bending.