Replaced stem, now steerer tube/headseat loose
06-23-05, 10:04 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Oregon
Posts: 270
Bikes: 2003 Jamis Nova - commuter setup
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I replaced my stem and it's not quite as "tall" on the steerer tube as the prior one. I guess that's called stack height? Anyway, it's maybe 1-2 mm shorter. Well, it won't go all the way down to the top spacer and, it seems, there is some play. I can see a very slight bit of the steerer tube (fork tube? New to this). Steering isn't a problem. The problem is that when I brake I get a "click," so there's some play. Last night I thought I had it fixed simply by trying to get everything "down," but this evening it seems to have surfaced a bit, though not as bad as at first.
First, is it a huge no-no to ride with it this way? I'd like to commute tomorrow but don't want to cause any damage.
Second, what can I do to resolve this? Just add a spacer?
Thanks much.
First, is it a huge no-no to ride with it this way? I'd like to commute tomorrow but don't want to cause any damage.
Second, what can I do to resolve this? Just add a spacer?
Thanks much.
Last edited by mikdes; 06-23-05 at 10:24 PM.
06-24-05, 05:13 AM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Quahog, RI
Posts: 1,509
Bikes: Giant TCR Comps, Cdale R5000, Klein Q-Pro, Litespeed Siena, Piasano 105, Redline Conquest Pro, Voodoo Bizango, Fuji Aloha
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
see my reply to you on cyclingforums.com
06-24-05, 06:24 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 9,428
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Originally Posted by mikdes
First, is it a huge no-no to ride with it this way? I'd like to commute tomorrow but don't want to cause any damage.
Second, what can I do to resolve this? Just add a spacer?
06-24-05, 06:57 AM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 2,599
Bikes: 06 Lemond Reno, 98 GT Timberline mtn.bike
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 427 Post(s)
Liked 699 Times
in
436 Posts
There cannot be play in the headset-get some spacers and stack over the top of the stem until the top spacer is just a little over the top of the steerer, then install the top cap and tighten everything up.
Or, add some more spacers under the new stem, until the stem is just about 2-3mm higher than the steerer, then put on the top can and tighten. In any case, the steerer must be just below the level of the top spacer, or the top of the stem, or things won't tighten properly. (this is for a threadless headset).
See parktool.com for good maintenance and repair tips.
Or, add some more spacers under the new stem, until the stem is just about 2-3mm higher than the steerer, then put on the top can and tighten. In any case, the steerer must be just below the level of the top spacer, or the top of the stem, or things won't tighten properly. (this is for a threadless headset).
See parktool.com for good maintenance and repair tips.
06-24-05, 07:31 AM
#6
...and SnowDog
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Dropped in Vermont
Posts: 343
Bikes: 2015 Scott CR-1; 2013 Kona Jake the Snake; 2003 Scattante XRL; 1991 Raleigh Talon drop bar conversion
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Scribe a line on your steerer tube at the top of the stem (or spacer if you have a spacers above the stem) and then cut the tube 3mm below the line. When replacing the stem, tighten the cap bolt first to preload the stem then tighten the stem bolts. This should insure htat everything is nice and tight. Or do what freeranger wrote.
06-24-05, 07:35 AM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 9,428
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Originally Posted by woodboy
Scribe a line on your steerer tube at the top of the stem (or spacer if you have a spacers above the stem) and then cut the tube 3mm below the line. When replacing the stem, tighten the cap bolt first to preload the stem then tighten the stem bolts. This should insure htat everything is nice and tight. Or do what freeranger wrote.
06-24-05, 07:49 AM
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Oregon
Posts: 270
Bikes: 2003 Jamis Nova - commuter setup
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Do they make spacers as small as 1 or 2 mm? I really think that's about all it needs as the stem is already about 1-2mm above the top of the tube.
06-24-05, 08:20 AM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 9,428
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Originally Posted by mikdes
Do they make spacers as small as 1 or 2 mm? I really think that's about all it needs as the stem is already about 1-2mm above the top of the tube.
06-24-05, 08:25 AM
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Oregon
Posts: 270
Bikes: 2003 Jamis Nova - commuter setup
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Good deal. Just to confirm, do I tighten the top cap bolt prior to the stem bolts, or is it the other way around?
06-24-05, 08:48 AM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 9,428
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Originally Posted by mikdes
Good deal. Just to confirm, do I tighten the top cap bolt prior to the stem bolts, or is it the other way around?
