Ideas for removing a stubborn lower headset ring
We all know that whenever you have to pound a part onto a bike when installing it, that getting that part off later is going to be a major pain.
Well I have a Chris King lower headset ring (can't think of the proper term for that at the moment) on my fork that I need to get off, and I'll be damned if I can get that thing to budge a millimeter.
Does anyone have any ideas/tricks/techniques for getting these things off? I don't think there is a special tool for that (I've got nearly every Park tool out there and don't recall seeing one for that purpose).
I'm not a newbie mech here either, I've taken apart more bikes then I can count. I just can't get this thing to move with my normal "pound the freakin crap out of it with a hammer" technique. I've gotten these things off before, but this one is seriously stuck on there and might call for a different approach.
If you have a bearing splitter, you might be able to close it down beneath the crown race, then grab the bearing splitter in your vise and use a block of wood and a hammer to pound the steer tube.
These are not too wildly expensive at an automotive-supply shop.
Edit: Stein also makes a tool that incorporates a functionally-similar knife-edged splitter plus a slide-hammer: http://www.jastein.com/Tools_for_Frames_Forks.htm I happen to have one of these, it's not quite as great as it looks but in some situations it's got the edge (no pun intended).
Last edited by mechBgon; 07-18-02 at 11:06 AM.
hmm, thanks for the info. I don't have a bearing splitter, but I see what you are talking about. Actually that did give me an idea for something I could try.
(And "crown race" was the term I couldn't remember, duh...)
Ah the adventures of bike maintenance. (I probably should buy a tool for this, as this procedure is the only one I can think of that gives me fits every time.)
BFSSFG old timer
A tool is made for it, but it's around $150 or more if I remember correctly.
I use a U-bolt you get get at Home Depot/hardware stores for around $1. Find one just big enough to fit over the fork crown. Use a vise to bend it if necessary. Allows you to tap on two points of the race at the same time. A couple of medium whacks (technical term ) ususally does the job.
I know this might sound crazy but if you are getting desperate have you thought of trying to freeze the steerer tube and then try and shift the bearing?