Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-04-05, 06:07 PM   #1
J-McKech
What?
Thread Starter
 
J-McKech's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: N. Tx
Bikes: Bianchi Brava(retired), Surly Instigator(retired)
Posts: 1,650
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Front derailluer

I have a Sora front derailluer on my Bianchi. When I shift from the big chainring to the middle chainring it wont go, so I have to make it click all the way down to the small chainring and then click back over to the middle chainring. A riding buddy of mine said it sounded like my derailluer was too tight. I don't want to take it to the shop because they over charge and turn around is atleast 3 days. So how can I adjust it? Is it on the park tools website?
J-McKech is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-05, 06:19 PM   #2
sydney
Senior Member
 
sydney's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Bikes:
Posts: 9,428
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Yeah,repair section
sydney is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-05, 06:44 PM   #3
Retro Grouch 
Senior Member
 
Retro Grouch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Rans Rockst (Retro rocket) Rans Enduro Sport (Retro racket) Catrike 559, Merin Bear Valley (beater bike).
Posts: 26,631
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 92 Post(s)
Start at the very beginning and go through the whole process. I think that the biggest problem that people have in adjusting front derailleurs is that they try to start the adjustment process in the middle.
Retro Grouch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-05, 06:55 PM   #4
ivan_yulaev
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: San Diego, CA
Bikes: See sig.
Posts: 1,651
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Here is how I have always done it.

1. Drop it down into the small ring (or where-ever the deralleur defaults to, on some mountain bikes, it is the largest chainring)
2. Adjust the barrell adjuster (if you have one) so that it gives the cable as much slack as possible.
3. Undo the cable clamping bolt on the deralleur, and use an assistant with a pair of needlenose pliers to gently remove all the slack from the cable by pulling on it.
4. Re-torque the cable clamping bolt.
5. Run through the shifting, and add tension to the cable as necessary.

Worked for me...
ivan_yulaev is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-05, 06:58 PM   #5
sydney
Senior Member
 
sydney's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Bikes:
Posts: 9,428
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by ivan_yulaev
Here is how I have always done it.

1. Drop it down into the small ring (or where-ever the deralleur defaults to, on some mountain bikes, it is the largest chainring)
2. Adjust the barrell adjuster (if you have one) so that it gives the cable as much slack as possible.
3. Undo the cable clamping bolt on the deralleur, and use an assistant with a pair of needlenose pliers to gently remove all the slack from the cable by pulling on it.
4. Re-torque the cable clamping bolt.
5. Run through the shifting, and add tension to the cable as necessary.

Worked for me...
Suggest you check the park site to and learn about the limit screws as well as position and alignment. AFWIW, I'm not familiar with HI normal front derailers. What's up with that?
sydney is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-05, 07:45 AM   #6
Retro Grouch 
Senior Member
 
Retro Grouch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Rans Rockst (Retro rocket) Rans Enduro Sport (Retro racket) Catrike 559, Merin Bear Valley (beater bike).
Posts: 26,631
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 92 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by sydney
Suggest you check the park site to and learn about the limit screws as well as position and alignment. AFWIW, I'm not familiar with HI normal front derailers. What's up with that?
Sydney, you're probably just not old enough. I'm thinking early to mid 70's for high-normal front derailleurs. Only saw them on low end bikes. Their point was that you'd push either shifter forward to find a harder gear.
Retro Grouch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-05, 08:38 AM   #7
Al1943
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Bikes: Trek 5500, Colnago C-50
Posts: 9,433
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
And while the cable is detached, flip the small shift lever a few times to make sure all of the cable is released.

Al
Al1943 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-05, 09:27 AM   #8
rmfnla
Senior Member
 
rmfnla's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: La La Land (We love it!)
Bikes: Gilmour road, Curtlo road; both steel (of course)
Posts: 5,969
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 125 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
Sydney, you're probably just not old enough. I'm thinking early to mid 70's for high-normal front derailleurs. Only saw them on low end bikes. Their point was that you'd push either shifter forward to find a harder gear.
I remember those. Is the Rapid Rise stuff similar?
__________________
Today, I believe my jurisdiction ends here...
rmfnla is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-05, 09:48 AM   #9
Retro Grouch 
Senior Member
 
Retro Grouch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Rans Rockst (Retro rocket) Rans Enduro Sport (Retro racket) Catrike 559, Merin Bear Valley (beater bike).
Posts: 26,631
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 92 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by rmfnla
I remember those. Is the Rapid Rise stuff similar?
Rapid Rise does the same thing but at the back. My opinion of both is similar.
Retro Grouch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-05, 10:30 AM   #10
rmfnla
Senior Member
 
rmfnla's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: La La Land (We love it!)
Bikes: Gilmour road, Curtlo road; both steel (of course)
Posts: 5,969
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 125 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
Rapid Rise does the same thing but at the back. My opinion of both is similar.
Yeah, I knew it was at the back, and my opinion is the same.
Springs should be used for the easy shifts, thumbs for the hard ones.
__________________
Today, I believe my jurisdiction ends here...
rmfnla is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-05, 02:29 PM   #11
sydney
Senior Member
 
sydney's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Bikes:
Posts: 9,428
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
Sydney, you're probably just not old enough. I'm thinking early to mid 70's for high-normal front derailleurs. Only saw them on low end bikes. Their point was that you'd push either shifter forward to find a harder gear.
Yeah, I heard of them. certainly not applicable to current stuff.
sydney is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:14 PM.