Front derailluer
07-04-05, 06:07 PM
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Front derailluer
I have a Sora front derailluer on my Bianchi. When I shift from the big chainring to the middle chainring it wont go, so I have to make it click all the way down to the small chainring and then click back over to the middle chainring. A riding buddy of mine said it sounded like my derailluer was too tight. I don't want to take it to the shop because they over charge and turn around is atleast 3 days. So how can I adjust it? Is it on the park tools website?
07-04-05, 06:44 PM
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Start at the very beginning and go through the whole process. I think that the biggest problem that people have in adjusting front derailleurs is that they try to start the adjustment process in the middle.
07-04-05, 06:55 PM
#4
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Here is how I have always done it.
1. Drop it down into the small ring (or where-ever the deralleur defaults to, on some mountain bikes, it is the largest chainring)
2. Adjust the barrell adjuster (if you have one) so that it gives the cable as much slack as possible.
3. Undo the cable clamping bolt on the deralleur, and use an assistant with a pair of needlenose pliers to gently remove all the slack from the cable by pulling on it.
4. Re-torque the cable clamping bolt.
5. Run through the shifting, and add tension to the cable as necessary.
Worked for me...
1. Drop it down into the small ring (or where-ever the deralleur defaults to, on some mountain bikes, it is the largest chainring)
2. Adjust the barrell adjuster (if you have one) so that it gives the cable as much slack as possible.
3. Undo the cable clamping bolt on the deralleur, and use an assistant with a pair of needlenose pliers to gently remove all the slack from the cable by pulling on it.
4. Re-torque the cable clamping bolt.
5. Run through the shifting, and add tension to the cable as necessary.
Worked for me...
07-04-05, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ivan_yulaev
Here is how I have always done it.
1. Drop it down into the small ring (or where-ever the deralleur defaults to, on some mountain bikes, it is the largest chainring)
2. Adjust the barrell adjuster (if you have one) so that it gives the cable as much slack as possible.
3. Undo the cable clamping bolt on the deralleur, and use an assistant with a pair of needlenose pliers to gently remove all the slack from the cable by pulling on it.
4. Re-torque the cable clamping bolt.
5. Run through the shifting, and add tension to the cable as necessary.
Worked for me...
1. Drop it down into the small ring (or where-ever the deralleur defaults to, on some mountain bikes, it is the largest chainring)
2. Adjust the barrell adjuster (if you have one) so that it gives the cable as much slack as possible.
3. Undo the cable clamping bolt on the deralleur, and use an assistant with a pair of needlenose pliers to gently remove all the slack from the cable by pulling on it.
4. Re-torque the cable clamping bolt.
5. Run through the shifting, and add tension to the cable as necessary.
Worked for me...
07-05-05, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by sydney
Suggest you check the park site to and learn about the limit screws as well as position and alignment. AFWIW, I'm not familiar with HI normal front derailers. What's up with that?
07-05-05, 08:38 AM
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And while the cable is detached, flip the small shift lever a few times to make sure all of the cable is released.
Al
Al
07-05-05, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
Sydney, you're probably just not old enough. I'm thinking early to mid 70's for high-normal front derailleurs. Only saw them on low end bikes. Their point was that you'd push either shifter forward to find a harder gear.
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07-05-05, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by rmfnla
I remember those. Is the Rapid Rise stuff similar?
07-05-05, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
Rapid Rise does the same thing but at the back. My opinion of both is similar.
Springs should be used for the easy shifts, thumbs for the hard ones.
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07-05-05, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
Sydney, you're probably just not old enough. I'm thinking early to mid 70's for high-normal front derailleurs. Only saw them on low end bikes. Their point was that you'd push either shifter forward to find a harder gear.
