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Buying a new front derailleur, what should I look for?

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Buying a new front derailleur, what should I look for?

Old 07-11-05, 12:02 AM
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Buying a new front derailleur, what should I look for?

Hello,

I'm new to biking and I just got myself a trek 1000 and wanted to improve my front derailleur. It takes too long to switch gears. I was wondering when replacing a derailleur what should I be looking for? The bike has a stock tiagara rear derailleur, 8-rear cassette, and a triple crankset. I found some cheap 105 shimanos on ebay but I don't know if they would match. Can someone help?
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Old 07-11-05, 04:47 AM
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105 is a better group than Tiagra. But. No front derailleur shifts all that fast. At least not fast as compared to a rear derailleur.

SS
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Old 07-11-05, 05:41 AM
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Originally Posted by pyrrhus429
Hello,

I'm new to biking and I just got myself a trek 1000 and wanted to improve my front derailleur. It takes too long to switch gears. I was wondering when replacing a derailleur what should I be looking for? The bike has a stock tiagara rear derailleur, 8-rear cassette, and a triple crankset. I found some cheap 105 shimanos on ebay but I don't know if they would match. Can someone help?
And just how do you think a better quality level FD is going to make you shift faster? You can get 105 FDs online for about $25 from places like Performance, but again I don't think you are going address the issue with new part.
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Old 07-11-05, 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by pyrrhus429
Hello,

I'm new to biking and I just got myself a trek 1000 and wanted to improve my front derailleur. It takes too long to switch gears. I was wondering when replacing a derailleur what should I be looking for? The bike has a stock tiagara rear derailleur, 8-rear cassette, and a triple crankset. I found some cheap 105 shimanos on ebay but I don't know if they would match. Can someone help?
A poorly adjusted new FD will shift as basly as the one you have.
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Old 07-11-05, 04:10 PM
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It's not just that it takes too long, but the fact is that it sometimes stalls when I drop down from the high gear to the middle gear. I've had to shift to the granny gear and then back up to hit the middle gear. Is that just an adjustment issue or should I just take it to the shop? The front derailleur is a is a shimano 2200 I think. Even if buying a new derailleur is not the solution I'd still like to know what to look for in a derailleur when buying a new one and what's the real difference between them all? Thanks for responding all.
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Old 07-11-05, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by pyrrhus429
It's not just that it takes too long, but the fact is that it sometimes stalls when I drop down from the high gear to the middle gear. I've had to shift to the granny gear and then back up to hit the middle gear. Is that just an adjustment issue or should I just take it to the shop? The front derailleur is a is a shimano 2200 I think. Even if buying a new derailleur is not the solution I'd still like to know what to look for in a derailleur when buying a new one and what's the real difference between them all? Thanks for responding all.
Definitely an adjustment issue. Sometimes a pretty maddeningly difficult one. Learning to adjust a front derailer is very useful, but be prepared for an hour or so of frustration The other source of the problem may be your shifters. Since you have an 8-speed cassette, I'm guessing you have Sora or Tiagra shifters? The problem with these is that the left shifter only has 3 positions, instead of the 4 positions on a 105+ triple shifter. The extra position allows you to trim the front derailer for the finicky middle ring.

Basically, when selecting a front derailer, look for:
* one designed for the exact combination of chainrings that you're using (if it's designed for a 22-32-44, it'll work best with those)
* failing that, a derailer with the right "gaps" between chainrings (so a 22-32-44 should work pretty well with 30-40-52)
* failing that, a derailer with sufficient capacity (difference between large and small chainring)

Of course, you also need a triple front derailer for triple cranks. And if you'll be using it in indexed mode, you need the derailer to match the throw of the shifters (e.g. with new Shimano mtb shifters, you need a Shimano top-pull FD).
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Old 07-11-05, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by moxfyre
Definitely an adjustment issue. Sometimes a pretty maddeningly difficult one. Learning to adjust a front derailer is very useful, but be prepared for an hour or so of frustration The other source of the problem may be your shifters. Since you have an 8-speed cassette, I'm guessing you have Sora or Tiagra shifters? The problem with these is that the left shifter only has 3 positions, instead of the 4 positions on a 105+ triple shifter. The extra position allows you to trim the front derailer for the finicky middle ring.

Basically, when selecting a front derailer, look for:
* one designed for the exact combination of chainrings that you're using (if it's designed for a 22-32-44, it'll work best with those)
* failing that, a derailer with the right "gaps" between chainrings (so a 22-32-44 should work pretty well with 30-40-52)
* failing that, a derailer with sufficient capacity (difference between large and small chainring)

Of course, you also need a triple front derailer for triple cranks. And if you'll be using it in indexed mode, you need the derailer to match the throw of the shifters (e.g. with new Shimano mtb shifters, you need a Shimano top-pull FD).
Given that he has a trek 1000 triple, the short answer is a shimano road triple FD. And a bottom pull mtb FD works with mtb shifters
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Old 07-11-05, 05:46 PM
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Given that he has a Trek 1000 sora triple, the short answer is that he needs a shimano road triple FD. More specifically one for 52/52/30 rings, rather than one for the newer 52/39/30 setups.AFWIW, a bottom pull mtb FD works with mtb shifters.
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Old 07-11-05, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by sydney
AFWIW, a bottom pull mtb FD works with mtb shifters.
Good to know, I wasn't aware that they made bottom-pull FDs with the new throw ratio.
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Old 07-11-05, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by moxfyre
I wasn't aware that they made bottom-pull FDs with the new throw ratio.
'NEW' throw raito??
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Old 07-11-05, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by sydney
'NEW' throw raito??
In the words of Sheldon Brown:


Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown from r.b.t
Shimano rear shifters and derailers are all intercompatible, but it's a
different story on the front. The cable pull is different for drop bar
("road") vs straight bar ("mountain") controls.
Perhaps "NEW" is the wrong word. What I meant is that there's a different throw ratio for MTB vs. Road front shifters/derailers...
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Old 07-11-05, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by moxfyre
In the words of Sheldon Brown:




Perhaps "NEW" is the wrong word. What I meant is that there's a different throw ratio for MTB vs. Road front shifters/derailers...
Well sure, but there is nothing 'new' there, and mtb FD are and have been available in top and bottom pull. That's what happens when you go for the 'brain dump' rather than the simple answer that addresses exactly what the poster has, and wants to do.
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Old 07-11-05, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by sydney
Well sure, but there is nothing 'new' there, and mtb FD are and have been available in top and bottom pull. That's what happens when you go for the 'brain dump' rather than the simple answer that addresses exactly what the poster has, and wants to do.
No, that's what happens when sydney seizes on the most minor innacuracy of my response

The original poster asked how to pick a front derailer in general, so I tried to give him the complete explanation.
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Old 07-12-05, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by moxfyre
No, that's what happens when sydney seizes on the most minor innacuracy of my response

The original poster asked how to pick a front derailer in general, so I tried to give him the complete explanation.
At the expense of being accused of guessing, sydney thinks he worded the question poorly ,but gave enough info to provide the short answer.
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Old 07-12-05, 08:12 AM
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Before you buy a new FD check that yours is mounted correctly. Slow downshifts can be caused by too much space between the large chainring and the FD cage. There should be about 2mm clearance, or just enough space to fit a penny between the teeth and the cage. If you do need to move it don't forget to readjust the cable.
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Old 07-12-05, 10:50 AM
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I'm using a 105 triple, gripshift shifters and 44-36-24 chainrings on my wife's bike. The combination of components shouldn't work, because I'm using MTB shifters with a road FD, but it does. Maybe the wider cage on the 7 speed FD allows a little more leeway.

I was comparing the 105 FD to an XT of the same vintage, and I can't find any difference between them other than the finish. The parts look like they came out of the same mold.
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Old 07-12-05, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Dirtdrop
I'm using a 105 triple, gripshift shifters and 44-36-24 chainrings on my wife's bike. The combination of components shouldn't work, because I'm using MTB shifters with a road FD, but it does. Maybe the wider cage on the 7 speed FD allows a little more leeway.

I was comparing the 105 FD to an XT of the same vintage, and I can't find any difference between them other than the finish. The parts look like they came out of the same mold.
I think the gripshifts have more total cable pull than the trigger shifters do. I'm guessing that the chainrings don't line up with the 1,2,3 marks on the grip shifter? This is assuming that you have the gripshifters that allow you to trim the FD...

I'm not such a huge fan of indexed front shifting. It's nice when it works, but it's so finicky to adjust and friction shifting up front is so easy.
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Old 07-12-05, 12:35 PM
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These gripshifters allow no trimming. It's my wife's bike and she leaves it on the middle ring most of the time anyway. She's happy with it, so I'm going to leave it alone.
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Old 07-13-05, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Dirtdrop
I'm using a 105 triple, gripshift shifters and 44-36-24 chainrings on my wife's bike. The combination of components shouldn't work, because I'm using MTB shifters with a road FD, but it does. Maybe the wider cage on the 7 speed FD allows a little more leeway.

I was comparing the 105 FD to an XT of the same vintage, and I can't find any difference between them other than the finish. The parts look like they came out of the same mold.
If you look at the actuator arm (the part that the cable clamps to) you will notice that the MTB one is a good bit longer than the roadie. This is where the difference in cage travel per shift originates.

You have a 7 speed FD..?
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Old 07-13-05, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Dirtdrop
These gripshifters allow no trimming. It's my wife's bike and she leaves it on the middle ring most of the time anyway. She's happy with it, so I'm going to leave it alone.
Anytime a wife is happy you should leave things alone...

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