Excessive Lever Pull Required to Engage Canti Brakes with Weird Trek Pivot Point
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Excessive Lever Pull Required to Engage Canti Brakes with Weird Trek Pivot Point
*** Preface: no, I don't want v-brakes. My shifters and brake levers are integrated and I don't want to replace a ton of parts and/or have mis-matching front and rear shifters and brake levers ***
I recently picked up a 1994 Trek 930. Apparently in the mid-90s Trek decided that smooth post canti's weren't finnicky enough and introduced a proprietary pivot design in the rear.
The brakes require a lot lever pull (relative to the front brakes, relative to cantis on another bike I own and relative to every other brake I've used).
They're set up properly as far as I can tell. I'm 99% sure the link wire is original (it seems everything on the bike is original), the transverse cable on the opposite side of the Trek yoke-thingy is the same length as the link wire, the length of the transverse cable in front is the same length and uses the same brakes and works fine, the brake pads aren't excessively worn, and the pads aren't mounted on the inside of the post.
I suppose I could replace this Trek-specific pivot with a seatpost clamp hanger (like this) or mount a cable hangar designed for a fork (like this) where the Trek pivot is mounted and then use an old school (like this) or new school (like this) yoke.
But before doing that wanted to check here to see if there's something I can do to get the brakes work better with the existing hardware. Any ideas?
Below are pictures of the brakes and Trek yoke-thingy, the Trek yoke-thingy disassembled, the relative lever pull front and back for similar (moderate-ish) engagement.
Here's a video showing the pivot in action:
Any advice would be appreciated!
I recently picked up a 1994 Trek 930. Apparently in the mid-90s Trek decided that smooth post canti's weren't finnicky enough and introduced a proprietary pivot design in the rear.
The brakes require a lot lever pull (relative to the front brakes, relative to cantis on another bike I own and relative to every other brake I've used).
They're set up properly as far as I can tell. I'm 99% sure the link wire is original (it seems everything on the bike is original), the transverse cable on the opposite side of the Trek yoke-thingy is the same length as the link wire, the length of the transverse cable in front is the same length and uses the same brakes and works fine, the brake pads aren't excessively worn, and the pads aren't mounted on the inside of the post.
I suppose I could replace this Trek-specific pivot with a seatpost clamp hanger (like this) or mount a cable hangar designed for a fork (like this) where the Trek pivot is mounted and then use an old school (like this) or new school (like this) yoke.
But before doing that wanted to check here to see if there's something I can do to get the brakes work better with the existing hardware. Any ideas?
Below are pictures of the brakes and Trek yoke-thingy, the Trek yoke-thingy disassembled, the relative lever pull front and back for similar (moderate-ish) engagement.
Here's a video showing the pivot in action:
Any advice would be appreciated!
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I've dealt with that Trek pivot thing and it is indeed a PITA. Replace it with one of the ideas you mentioned. Keeping the original is not worth the hassle.
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I would ditch both the link wire and the pivot thing and go with a straddle wire and a conventional straddle wire hanger. The fork mount housing stop up front will eliminate the root cause of brake shudder, and the straddle wire arrangement is easily adjustable, which both the link wire and pivot do not.
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I got some of these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-BICYCLE-B...E/121793571684
They are plain steel, not fancy, and I haven't actually installed them on a bike yet (prepping one of the family bikes), but they look like they were well made, and not too expensive!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-BICYCLE-B...E/121793571684
They are plain steel, not fancy, and I haven't actually installed them on a bike yet (prepping one of the family bikes), but they look like they were well made, and not too expensive!
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I may be misremembering, because it's decades since I last saw that arrangement, but I think that the intention was for the brake cable housing to extend to and terminate in a housing stop in the pivot. The idea was to provide a design that would work with bikes with rear suspension as well as rigid bikes. The introduction of V-brakes probably constituted another approach to the same problem.
So if you see a housing-size receptacle in the upper side of the right arm of the pivot, try installing a longer piece of brake housing that bypasses the boss on the frame and reaches that pivot.
So if you see a housing-size receptacle in the upper side of the right arm of the pivot, try installing a longer piece of brake housing that bypasses the boss on the frame and reaches that pivot.
#7
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I would ditch both the link wire and the pivot thing and go with a straddle wire and a conventional straddle wire hanger. The fork mount housing stop up front will eliminate the root cause of brake shudder, and the straddle wire arrangement is easily adjustable, which both the link wire and pivot do not.
I got some of these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-BICYCLE-B...E/121793571684
They are plain steel, not fancy, and I haven't actually installed them on a bike yet (prepping one of the family bikes), but they look like they were well made, and not too expensive!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-BICYCLE-B...E/121793571684
They are plain steel, not fancy, and I haven't actually installed them on a bike yet (prepping one of the family bikes), but they look like they were well made, and not too expensive!
Got a Shimano Yoke. Cosmetically not exactly the same as the front brake but it's the same design and same length (size A, 73mm) so I think it should work well.
Also got a Tektro Cable Hanger that I can mount to the seatpost clamp. Now just awaiting delivery so I can install them.
I may be misremembering, because it's decades since I last saw that arrangement, but I think that the intention was for the brake cable housing to extend to and terminate in a housing stop in the pivot. The idea was to provide a design that would work with bikes with rear suspension as well as rigid bikes. The introduction of V-brakes probably constituted another approach to the same problem.
So if you see a housing-size receptacle in the upper side of the right arm of the pivot, try installing a longer piece of brake housing that bypasses the boss on the frame and reaches that pivot.
So if you see a housing-size receptacle in the upper side of the right arm of the pivot, try installing a longer piece of brake housing that bypasses the boss on the frame and reaches that pivot.
I've got a cable stop on the rear end of my top tube just in front of the seatpost. The rear brake cable and cable housing runs from there to the arm pivot and terminates in the pivot's housing receptacle.
Take a look at the pics I previously posted and let me know if it looks off.