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Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

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Old 07-30-02, 02:19 PM   #1
john_dun
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Crank Remover

How do crank removers work, is it essential to have them? The last time I had to remove the cranks is just used force which did the job.
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Old 07-30-02, 02:34 PM   #2
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I just bought a crank puller and believe me
its well worth the expense.
picture a threaded stud (or whatever) inside a
larger threaded tube. The large one threads into
the crank, you turn the inner one with wrench
and it pushes against axel pushing crank arm off.
Works well, just make sure you thread them on
correctly, I believe they could do some major
damage if cross threaded.

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Old 07-30-02, 03:11 PM   #3
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If you plan to do work on your bottom bracket, you need a crank puller.

Trying to bang or pry off a crank is almost sure to damage or bend the crank OR the spindle.
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Old 07-30-02, 04:09 PM   #4
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For square taper cranks they are essential.

http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQrCarm.shtml

Last edited by MichaelW; 07-30-02 at 04:11 PM.
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Old 07-30-02, 04:14 PM   #5
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I just got one and used it. I would say its essential. But dang they are pricey!

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Old 07-30-02, 07:58 PM   #6
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What they said ^

Removing cranks using makeshift methods is usually done only if the crank's extractor threading has been destroyed and there is no other way out. If you get a crank extractor, you'll be really pleased when you see how well it works. Do remember to take out any washers that might be under the heads of the crank bolts... I learned this lesson the hard way about 15 years ago!

Park Tool makes a couple styles that should be available for around US$15, including versions to fit splined axles. They last quite a while if they're not abused (grease the threads). Park Tool's recent models have some of the tallest threads on the market, for good resistance to thread pull-out, even taller than Campagnolo or Shimano's tools by my measurements. I think it's best to avoid off-brand crank pullers.
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Old 08-01-02, 01:04 PM   #7
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I respectfully disagree about using an inexpensive crank puller. my tool box is a mix of Park and some off brands. I buy Park for things that I will use a lot or seem especially critical, like freewheel removers. I have a Lifu crank bolt remover/crank puller for square taper spindle bottom brackets. It works just fine and has a reversible 14/15 mm socket for removing the crank bolts. Shimano slined spindle bb cranks require a different remover. For that I bought Park.

By the way, if you have square taper bb, for a few bucks you can get replacement crank bolts that have built in washers and dust seals. The bolts use an 8mm allen instead of a 14 or 15 mm socket. I find it much more convenient and easy to remove.

On another thread I wrote a long description of using crank pullers. I won't repeat it here. You can look it up. It was only a month or two ago.
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Old 08-01-02, 09:11 PM   #8
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Never attempt any mechanical work without the proper tool(s). Any time you do not want to buy a particular tool and cannot rent or borrow it, pay your LBS to do the work, instead. If you can remove a cotterless crank without a crank puller, it was too loose on the spindle and subject to severe damage.
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