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Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

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Old 07-26-05, 09:21 PM   #1
non-homogenized
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Help with broken plastic bb stuck in frame!?

I was getting some annoying creaking coming from my crankset on my surly crosscheck, so I decided to take the bottom bracket out and reinstall it. When I built the bike a couple months ago (my first bb installation), I started with locktite but switched to grease so that I could get it out easily in case I did it wrong.

Anyhow, I decided to reinstall it with locktite, making sure to put a lot of torque hoping that would get rid of the creaking. But when I was tighting the plastic removable cup the outer splined part broke right off, leaving most of the plast cup still inside the bike. Apparently it must have been coroded and ready to go -although I know you're not supposed to use locktite on plastic, when I originally installed it I might have put some on (though I'm pretty sure I wiped it off and switched to grease after realizing that you're not supposed to do that).

How can I get the rest out now? I searched all the past bb posts and couldn't find anything like this.

I hate when I'm "fixing" something and end up making it worse!!

I've read a lot of good advice on here from people who seem to know their stuff, so I'm hoping someone will let me know how I can get it out.

thanks in advance
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Old 07-27-05, 07:06 AM   #2
sydney
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Try removing the cartridge from the drive side. That will make using a tool to cut out the plastic piece easier. If the cartridge doesn't come out,then cutting the plascit piece will belelss of a piece of cake.FWIW, the non drive side cup should be greased on the inside as well as the threads,and putting the big strong arm on it only creates problems rather than fixing them.
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Old 08-28-05, 11:13 AM   #3
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I've got the same problem as non-homogenized. I DID try the drive side first and the plastic was actually a bit crispy, probably from years spent in the sun here in the Soroan desert near Phoenix.

I was wondering if heat to the bottom bracket would be problem on an aluminium frame? I was thinking of using a heat gun, not a torch. ML
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Old 08-28-05, 05:09 PM   #4
jur
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According to Park Tools, the drive side needs to be removed first if the other side is plastic. Assuming it is out I would taks a hack saw blade and carefully cut through most of the plastic, obviously taking great care not to score the shell with the saw teeth, perhaps by putting in a protective ring on the other side. Make a few almost-through cuts, then it should be easy to tap it so it breaks the rest of the way.
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Old 08-28-05, 07:44 PM   #5
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jur has the right idea. I have had this experience twice (slow learner) before I concluded the drive side should come out first.

I removed the remaining plastic cup by cutting slots 180 apart in it with a hacksaw blade, being VERY careful not to scratch up the bb shell threads or cut too deep. When I had the slots, I used a piece of scrap metal cut exactly as wide as bb diameter to act as a screwdriver and unthread the cup.

BTW, get replacement metal nds cups from your bike shop and this will never happen again.
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Old 08-28-05, 08:25 PM   #6
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Unless you have a reverse threaded bottom bracket like French or Italian, you shouldn't ever have to use loctite. Even then, you probably don't need it. Millions of such bikes were built without requiring a thread locking compound. The only time you might need it is if you have a Phil Wood bottom bracket which has no flange on either side. The "lock" rings don't really and are designed to be thread locked in place.
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Old 08-29-05, 07:19 AM   #7
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On my bike, the drive side is plastic. I have tried to remove the other side, which is metal but, have not been successful. I must admit that breaking the plastic caused me to apply much less pressure on the other side. I have read that the metal might be aluminum which will distort from too much torque. Thanks for the replies. ML
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