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  1. #1
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    home brew Pro Link

    Howdy, all -

    I love Pro Link lube, but don't love the price. Six bucks per bottle, and a bottle only lasts me about a month.

    I've heard people mention that they make their own lube by mixing synthetic motor oil and mineral spirits. It seems to me that this is probably what pro link is. That would explain the smell, and its strange ability to clean the chain it is lubing. What do you think?

    Does anybody have a home brew recipe for synthetic chain lube? Specifically, how much lube to how much solvent?

    Yes, I did a forum search for this, but all I found was folks getting REALLY angry with each other over wd40 and white lightning. Death threats, etc. Please remain calm.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    My bike's better than me! neil0502's Avatar
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    http://www.shutupandride.ca/articles....php?art_id=49

    EDIT: another thread, from r.b.m., claims "Coleman fuel mixed 3 parts to 1 part synthetic motor oil. This is
    basically the same thing as Pro-Link. The Coleman fuel cleans the chain, then evaporates, while the motor oil remains in the links. Needless to say, keep this away from any open flame or spark." I haven't tried this.

    Also, RoadBikeReview.com's discussion forum has threads all about this. Their search feature seems to be down right now, but you should check back there.

  3. #3
    Senior Member MudPie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by same time
    Howdy, all -

    I love Pro Link lube, but don't love the price. Six bucks per bottle, and a bottle only lasts me about a month.
    ...

    Yes, I did a forum search for this, but all I found was folks getting REALLY angry with each other over wd40 and white lightning. Death threats, etc. Please remain calm.

    Thanks!
    I've been using Pro Link for about 4 years and love the stuff, although my consumption rate isn't as high as yours. I'm probably one bottle every 4 months. I know you can buy that stuff in bulk, like quart size. You can buy directly from ProGold, $50 for 32 ounces, but this comes out to more than $6 per 4 oz bottle, so maybe bulk isn't a great deal. https://www.progoldmfr.com/order.html


    I do cringe when someone posts a question about chain lube and invariable, some poor soul will mention WD-40 - and it's like watching two approaching locomotives on the same track. You know what's going to happen, but you have to watch.

  4. #4
    Senior Member sydney's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by neil0502
    http://www.shutupandride.ca/articles....php?art_id=49

    EDIT: another thread, from r.b.m., claims "Coleman fuel mixed 3 parts to 1 part synthetic motor oil. This is
    basically the same thing as Pro-Link. The Coleman fuel cleans the chain, then evaporates, while the motor oil remains in the links. Needless to say, keep this away from any open flame or spark." I haven't tried this.
    Just wait till that muppet starts smoking carpet aound his coleman fule mix. The usual recipe is 1 part synthetic motor oil to 3 or 4 parts mineral spirits. The spirits act as the carrier,but aren't neary so flamable.

  5. #5
    BIKE MECHANIC king koeller's Avatar
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    WE HAVE A PRODUCT HERE IN JAPAN THAT IS BETTER THAN EVER!
    5-56 EVER HEAR OF It?
    It cleans the chain,
    then leaves a fine coating that doesn't attact dirt, dust, and grit.
    Un like w-40. yet at the same time doesn't evorate like wd-40 .
    Plus it really lasts, is impervious to mosture, and can be used for all fine lubrication.(Brakes,cables,deraillers, brake levers, stem bolts, braze on allen's... ect)
    Great product!!
    1976 Centurion Super Lemans 23"C-T Double butted chrome-moly Nervex style lugs Campy NR Wright Leather fiamme red label tubular rims Metallic silver, 1984-BCA 21.5"c-t Tange double butted lugged Shimano bio-pace Leather Brooks B-17 Champion Standard honey Black w Red head tube Lugged frame, 1986 FOCUS 22"c-t Tange double butted lugged Suntour XC Sport Sugino VP triple Dia-Compe Canti's Brooks B-17 Champion Standard, Trek Elance 400D 1986 Reynolds 531 Full Shimano SIS Black metallic silver

  6. #6
    You need a new bike supcom's Avatar
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    I use one part Mobile One to 3 parts mineral spirits or Coleman Camp fuel. The selection of thinner is not critical. The idea is that the thinned oil easily penetrates the pivots, then the thinning agent evaporates leaving the oil behind.

    After application, wipe the chain clean with a rag to remove any excess.

    I have no idea what is in ProLink, or any other commercial chain lube, but this formula works very well, is long lasting, and is cheap.

  7. #7
    cab horn
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    Go to MEC and buy your lube.

    A $7 of Tri-Flow at all bike shops cost $3.50 there.

  8. #8
    Metaphorically speaking ajst2duk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by king koeller
    WE HAVE A PRODUCT HERE IN JAPAN THAT IS BETTER THAN EVER!
    5-56 EVER HEAR OF It?
    It cleans the chain,
    then leaves a fine coating that doesn't attact dirt, dust, and grit.
    Un like w-40. yet at the same time doesn't evorate like wd-40 .
    Plus it really lasts, is impervious to mosture, and can be used for all fine lubrication.(Brakes,cables,deraillers, brake levers, stem bolts, braze on allen's... ect)
    Great product!!
    yeah but it smells bad, unlike WD-40
    Land of the long white cloud

  9. #9
    I drink your MILKSHAKE Raiyn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by king koeller
    WE HAVE A PRODUCT HERE IN JAPAN THAT IS BETTER THAN EVER!
    5-56 EVER HEAR OF It?
    It cleans the chain,
    then leaves a fine coating that doesn't attact dirt, dust, and grit.
    Un like w-40. yet at the same time doesn't evorate like wd-40 .
    Plus it really lasts, is impervious to mosture, and can be used for all fine lubrication.(Brakes,cables,deraillers, brake levers, stem bolts, braze on allen's... ect)
    Great product!!
    Comparing ANYTHING to WD40 isn't an endorsement. WD40 sucks plain and simple

  10. #10
    Senior Member Jed19's Avatar
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    Regardless of what people feel about using motor oil as lube, I have been using one part 10W-30 synthetic motor oil and three parts odorless mineral spirits as my lube of choice on my drivetrain for a while now. It works great and lasts much longer than all the bike-specific lubes I have used in the past. Cheaper too. The only thing is to make sure you give your drivetrain a quick wipe-down as soon as you finish your ride.

    Here are what I have learnt:

    a) Synthetic motor oil works better than regular motor oil;

    b) There is absolutely no need to buy and use bike-specific lubes.

    c) My drivetrain has been much more quiet than it used to be. Almost Zen-like, is how I feel with my super-quiet drivetrain.

    I know there will be people who disagree with me, but that is fine. To each his/her own. I have found what works for me and I am happy with my choice.

    Regards

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