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  1. #1
    Can it be bike time now? staticguy's Avatar
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    Too much bearing grease?

    I just rebuilt my hub last night and is it possible to put too much grease in the races? Even with the cones very loose the wheel just doesn’t spin as smoothly as it used to.
    I have used new bearing in it. I was thinking too much is better than too little, but maybe not.

    The only other different is I changed the old uniglide freehub to a hyperguide freehub for an NOS hub. This is a 7speed shimano 600 hub.

    Also I was not able to get the uniglide cassette off the freehub. Are there any tricks to getting the lock cog to move? No amount of force was getting that thing to move. I just removed the entire freehub with the cassette still attached, but I would like to use 2 of the cogs that are on it.

  2. #2
    No longer in Wimbledon... womble's Avatar
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    I just rebuilt my hubs too.

    The grease is initally really, really thick. It seems to loosen up a little after riding for a bit though. The excess grease also gets sqeezed out with use.

  3. #3
    Senior Member sydney's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by staticguy

    Also I was not able to get the uniglide cassette off the freehub. Are there any tricks to getting the lock cog to move? No amount of force was getting that thing to move. I just removed the entire freehub with the cassette still attached, but I would like to use 2 of the cogs that are on it.
    I think Sheldon says if brute force isn't working,you are not using enough. Try some penetrating oil too.

  4. #4
    Can it be bike time now? staticguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by womble
    The grease is initally really, really thick. It seems to loosen up a little after riding for a bit though. The excess grease also gets sqeezed out with use.
    cool. That was what I was thinking just want to make sure. I will take it out for ride tonight and see how it does.

  5. #5
    Obeying Gravity
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    When I regrease my hubs where the ball bearings go, i put as much grease as it take to cover the first ball bearing 2/3 of the way. Then as you put the other ball bearings in, it wil cover them more.

  6. #6
    Senior Member mtbikerinpa's Avatar
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    You should have a goodly bit of grease in the races. Air in the races is not desirable. Too little grease is bad. If it drags a lot and the cone tension is propper, you should look at what grade grease you are using. I swear by valvoline #614 moly. It has a relatively low rolling resistance but lasts a long time and withstands water well.
    On the cassette lockring. This will sound bad to most, but the best tool for removing stuck fasteners is a good ol impact wrench. The manner in which an impact wrench forces a fastener is actually gentler on the item than the cave-man's pipe extension. In fact more effective usually. Hold the cog with a chain whip, as per normal. Then take a deep socket and fit it over the lockring tool. Make double sure of your rotation direction before inserting the tool, then give it a go.
    If you do not have access to one(or want to get a 99 buck electric, kick-butt) ask a local car shop. If you ask nicely they will usually let you or have someone help you.
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  7. #7
    Senior Member sydney's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbikerinpa
    On the cassette lockring. This will sound bad to most, but the best tool for removing stuck fasteners is a good ol impact wrench. The manner in which an impact wrench forces a fastener is actually gentler on the item than the cave-man's pipe extension. In fact more effective usually. Hold the cog with a chain whip, as per normal. Then take a deep socket and fit it over the lockring tool. Make double sure of your rotation direction before inserting the tool, then give it a go.
    You obviously don't have a clue about how a uniglide cassette works do you?? It takes oposing chainwhips,with one on the forst cog that screws on and holds all the others. No lockring !!

  8. #8
    la vache fantôme phantomcow2's Avatar
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    I usually overload the area with grease, place in the ball bearings, and then the excess is pushed out. Removed most of the pushed out grease and there you go.
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  9. #9
    Senior Member mtbikerinpa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sydney
    You obviously don't have a clue about how a uniglide cassette works do you?? It takes oposing chainwhips,with one on the forst cog that screws on and holds all the others. No lockring !!
    I stand corrected So it works like an old freewheel. Either way, a liberal patient soaking with penetrating oil is a good bet. Good move in upgrading for sure.
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  10. #10
    Keep Right Except to Pass
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    Regardless, the underlying point about shocking fastners is a good one people don't get sometimes.

  11. #11
    Can it be bike time now? staticguy's Avatar
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    After rideing a bit the wheel rolls fine, nothing fell off or broke! And the new gears are much better for hills.

    I was trying to think how to use an impact wrench on the uniglide but there was no way. It looks like I will just let it soak for a while.

    What is a good oil to let it soak in? All the stuff I have is in arosole cans, so I need to go but something, so what should it be?

  12. #12
    No longer in Wimbledon... womble's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by staticguy
    What is a good oil to let it soak in? All the stuff I have is in arosole cans, so I need to go but something, so what should it be?
    Penetrating oil, as mentioned by mtbikerinpa and sydney, is actually a type of oil. I comes in various brands, such as Liquid Wrench. Go to your local hardware store and look or ask.

  13. #13
    Senior Member sydney's Avatar
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    ^^^..... wd-40 and other aerosol stuff also often works as well.

  14. #14
    I drink your MILKSHAKE Raiyn's Avatar
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    P.B. Blaster is nasty and Toxic as hell, but it works the best out of all the products I've tried. It's the thing I go to as a LAST resort as it is so bloody toxic

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