Belt → chain: Tensioner?
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Belt → chain: Tensioner?
Hello,
I'd like to know if that bike could be retrofited to use a chain instead of a belt drive.
Can the frame take a chain tensioner?
Thank you.
--
Edit: Apparently, a CT-S510 can't work with a CJ-8S20 cassette joint and vertical dropouts because it'll be in the way :-/
Can a Nexus 8 take an Alfine cassette joint, with its "cable arm" above the chainstay?
I'd like to know if that bike could be retrofited to use a chain instead of a belt drive.
Can the frame take a chain tensioner?
Thank you.
--
Edit: Apparently, a CT-S510 can't work with a CJ-8S20 cassette joint and vertical dropouts because it'll be in the way :-/
Can a Nexus 8 take an Alfine cassette joint, with its "cable arm" above the chainstay?
Last edited by Winfried; 12-24-23 at 08:45 AM.
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anything is possible. the answer might depend on whether you can find a tensioner that matches mounting holes on the dropout.
be prepared for some R&D
/markp
be prepared for some R&D
/markp
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Also, your vertical dropouts do not appear to be sliding type, so I am going to guess your bike has an eccentric bottom bracket to tension the belt in which case it would also tension the chain and no tensioner should be required.
Last edited by Dan Burkhart; 12-24-23 at 09:37 AM.
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Indeed, it has an eccentric BB. Since a chain wears (ie.extends/lengthens wtih wear) while a belt doesn't, I just wanted to check if I could avoid touching it and use a chain tensioner instead.
Thanks for the confirmation.
Thanks for the confirmation.
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This looks awfully like the Alfine CT-S500 chain tensioner used with a Nexus (or old Alfine) cassette joint (source):
But it looks like there's a derailleur hanger connecting it to the frame, which might not fit on my bike.
Or a Blackspire Stinger, or even a chainstay-mounted tensioner:
But it looks like there's a derailleur hanger connecting it to the frame, which might not fit on my bike.
Or a Blackspire Stinger, or even a chainstay-mounted tensioner:
Last edited by Winfried; 12-24-23 at 01:03 PM.
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Chain tricks you may or may not be able to use. 1) Run 1/8" cogs if possible. No drawbacks. They wear longer. The chains are harder to throw off, allowing more slack and easier setting of chain "tension". (In quotes because a single speed/IGH/fix gear chain should never have any tension whatsoever except from pedaling effort.)
1/8" chains exist in the real world of industrial machinery. So 2) things like 1/2 links (male at one end, female at the other) are readily available in any hardware store. I've never used an eccentric BB but I'm thinking that the ability to make 1/2" chain adjustments instead of 1" could make life easier. (If you use a 1/2 link, you cannot run a narrow-wide chain but in my many years of fix gear riding with 1/8" chains, I cannot see that you would ever need to if you have the ability to set the chain slack properly.) The Izumi ~$25 chains are excellent, last a long time and are made with pins that protrude enough that you can drive and re-drive them in complete confidence with any ordinary but reasonable quality chain riveter.
1/8" chains exist in the real world of industrial machinery. So 2) things like 1/2 links (male at one end, female at the other) are readily available in any hardware store. I've never used an eccentric BB but I'm thinking that the ability to make 1/2" chain adjustments instead of 1" could make life easier. (If you use a 1/2 link, you cannot run a narrow-wide chain but in my many years of fix gear riding with 1/8" chains, I cannot see that you would ever need to if you have the ability to set the chain slack properly.) The Izumi ~$25 chains are excellent, last a long time and are made with pins that protrude enough that you can drive and re-drive them in complete confidence with any ordinary but reasonable quality chain riveter.
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Before doing anything you need to know that belt and chain sprocket teeth are cut differently.
So the answer depends on whether you can find chains sprockets for both crank and hub.
So the answer depends on whether you can find chains sprockets for both crank and hub.
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Thanks for the infos.
I'm concerned with tension because, unlike a belt, a chain lengthens with wear, and I'd rather avoid having to re-adjust the eccentric BB just for that.
Not sure how easy it really is to find bike chains with half links. I might have to use a regular chain and see how it goes. And make sure the chainring can work with a 1/8" chain — Nexus rear cogs work with 3/32" chains, so I guess they also work with 1/8".
With luck, the Alfine CT-S510 might work with a Nexus cassette joint provided the chain goes under the idler pulley/jockey wheel instead of above.
I'm concerned with tension because, unlike a belt, a chain lengthens with wear, and I'd rather avoid having to re-adjust the eccentric BB just for that.
Not sure how easy it really is to find bike chains with half links. I might have to use a regular chain and see how it goes. And make sure the chainring can work with a 1/8" chain — Nexus rear cogs work with 3/32" chains, so I guess they also work with 1/8".
With luck, the Alfine CT-S510 might work with a Nexus cassette joint provided the chain goes under the idler pulley/jockey wheel instead of above.
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Thanks for the infos.
I'm concerned with tension because, unlike a belt, a chain lengthens with wear, and I'd rather avoid having to re-adjust the eccentric BB just for that.
Not sure how easy it really is to find bike chains with half links. I might have to use a regular chain and see how it goes. And make sure the chainring can work with a 1/8" chain — Nexus rear cogs work with 3/32" chains, so I guess they also work with 1/8".
With luck, the Alfine CT-S510 might work with a Nexus cassette joint provided the chain goes under the idler pulley/jockey wheel instead of above.
I'm concerned with tension because, unlike a belt, a chain lengthens with wear, and I'd rather avoid having to re-adjust the eccentric BB just for that.
Not sure how easy it really is to find bike chains with half links. I might have to use a regular chain and see how it goes. And make sure the chainring can work with a 1/8" chain — Nexus rear cogs work with 3/32" chains, so I guess they also work with 1/8".
With luck, the Alfine CT-S510 might work with a Nexus cassette joint provided the chain goes under the idler pulley/jockey wheel instead of above.
I have IGH bikes with vertical dropouts and no eccentric bottom brackets that I have been able to size the chain close enough to function well without a tensioner.Not always possible but I have done a number of builds where it just worked out.
Anyway, if you have a straight chain line, a tiny bit of droop isn’t going to hurt.
Spend some time at a velodrome you will see lots of bikes doing the circle with a bit of visible sag in the chain.
But all that said, adjusting an eccentric bottom bracket isn’t hard.
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Go to any BMX specialist.
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....
Not sure how easy it really is to find bike chains with half links. I might have to use a regular chain and see how it goes. And make sure the chainring can work with a 1/8" chain — Nexus rear cogs work with 3/32" chains, so I guess they also work with 1/8".
...
Not sure how easy it really is to find bike chains with half links. I might have to use a regular chain and see how it goes. And make sure the chainring can work with a 1/8" chain — Nexus rear cogs work with 3/32" chains, so I guess they also work with 1/8".
...
Yes, you can run 1/8" chain over 3/32" cogs/chainrings. Just not the other way around.
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I would never want to run a chain instead of a belt if the bike was set up to run belt drive. It is lower maintenance and longer wearing.
However if I wanted to run a chain I probably could do that on that bike just by getting the chain length right and wouldn't need a tensioner. You shouldn't need to really adjust the B.B. unless you really wear down the chain significantly and don't replace it but that is just a matter of proper maintenance. However I would rather just have a belt drive save 4-6 chains potentially and no lubrication or cleaning and less weight.
However if I wanted to run a chain I probably could do that on that bike just by getting the chain length right and wouldn't need a tensioner. You shouldn't need to really adjust the B.B. unless you really wear down the chain significantly and don't replace it but that is just a matter of proper maintenance. However I would rather just have a belt drive save 4-6 chains potentially and no lubrication or cleaning and less weight.
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