Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

New Chain Length

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

New Chain Length

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-01-02, 04:12 AM
  #26  
serial mender
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Bonn, Germany
Posts: 416
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
ooops. just a test. sorry.
jmlee is offline  
Old 09-04-02, 07:31 AM
  #27  
Jubalayo Unogwaja!
 
Bokkie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Bollocks!
Posts: 1,090
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Sheldon. I'm not sure if you are still subscribed to this thread, but here goes.

I see what you mean about the derailleur being pulled forward quite some way when you have the chain running on big/big. But again, I still wonder if big/big + 1 would have enough length to run around the guide and tension wheels? Assuming it does, that would seem to suggest the chain would run very tightly indeed. So, if you did go big/big (a bad thing I know) would your length calculation (a) allow that to happen, and (b) could it damage anything in the process?
Bokkie is offline  
Old 09-04-02, 08:09 AM
  #28  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: mass
Posts: 942
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
BOKKI,
I ride a touring bike with a dura-ace 30 - 39 - 53 up front and an XTR 12 - 34 in the rear. When I built up the bike I used the big/big plus 1 method of sizing the chain, it works great, you can go big/big, (although not recommended) and it dosen't run too tight, the bike shifts through the whole gear set in all directions smoothly and without a hitch. Listen to Sheldon, he is always correct, He is truely knowledgeable about cycle mechanics, We can all learn from him. Although I don't know Sheldon personally, I have read everything that he has written that I can find. I feel he is a credible human being and truely cares about our sport, He has the answers to our questions and He is willing to share them with us, if we ask.
mrfix is offline  
Old 09-04-02, 08:23 AM
  #29  
Jubalayo Unogwaja!
 
Bokkie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Bollocks!
Posts: 1,090
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Listen to Sheldon, he is always correct, He is truely knowledgeable about cycle mechanics, We can all learn from him
No problem with that at all. It's just that sometimes how I visualise something does not look right the way it's explained to me. I can see the gist of it now, now that I saw for myself in big/big the extent that the derailleur lies almost parallel to the ground. To fully understand it, I reckon I'd have to adjust the chain length and see for myself.

I think I need to buy a new chain as I don't want to mess up the original as that'll be my backup.
Bokkie is offline  
Old 09-04-02, 09:29 AM
  #30  
xc AND road
 
WoodyUpstate's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 503
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I use big/big +1 with my 11x23 cassette, but I occaisionally throw on a 12x27 cassette for a recovery ride. However, I don't change chains when I change cassettes. The 11x23 chain length shifts through the 12x27 cogset fine, though I admit that I NEVER ride big/big or small/small.
WoodyUpstate is offline  
Old 09-04-02, 09:53 AM
  #31  
Jubalayo Unogwaja!
 
Bokkie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Bollocks!
Posts: 1,090
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I think I posted a new thread but I can't find it anywhere, so let me continue with this:

I want to remove the chain, simple enough. The chain I have fitted is Shimano, and I think the links are stamped with an 'HG' on them or something like it. Maybe that's the product code of the particular chain?

All the links and rivets are identical, except for one link, where the rivet is made from a different material. It almost suggests, "I'm the one you need to push out".

I also read that Shimano rivets have a flared end, or something like it, and that I need a special type of tool specifically for Shimano chains? Any ideas on this?
Bokkie is offline  
Old 09-05-02, 01:00 AM
  #32  
Guitar Hero
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 403
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Shimano chains are joined by a "special" pin ,silver for 9sp and black for 8sp .. DO NOT break the chain at one of these pins ! .
Yes , they do look different in the chain than the others, they have a concave end to them , you can put one in your chain with a regular chain tool , though Shimano will recomend you use their HG tool .
These chain pins are available at your LBS ~.75 c or so , when you purchase a new Shimano chain they come with 2 pins
supplied .

Buddy.
__________________
Velosophy#1: It is better to have a bicycle and no money , than money and no bicycle ! Velosophy # 2 : "Winning is simple, but not easy." #3: "Give a man a fish and he shall eat for a day , teach him how to fish and he will sit in a boat and drink beer all day"
Buddy Hayden is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.