Nice! found this linky for so called "reducers" and uuugh!!! price ranges from $80s right up to thr $140s kinda steep.
There is that $18.95 sleeve reducer which got me thinking...
Can I just get that and get me a regular PIG or somethin??? Would that work?? What's the best thing to do?
Anyway, the FORK(1" S/T) that I have is an Enigma from Enigma Racing, which is threadless and I would really want to use it.
I can't find anything in the J&B catalog, probably for good reason. The tubes are so close that you really can't make an effective adapter. The tolerances are too small. Cut your losses, sell the fork, and buy the proper size.
I can't find anything in the J&B catalog, probably for good reason. The tubes are so close that you really can't make an effective adapter. The tolerances are too small.
Your comment made me dug deeper into the matter, thanks! So here's what I got...
As for reducers, I've read a few details on them and it seem like the practice of reducing tube sizes goes way up to pro riding. Here's one I found...
As a prototype, the Sunday frame design has already chalked up one of the most incredible strings of race performances in recent memory. These wins include the Australian National DH Championship, US Open Championship, and Canadian National Championship for 2004, as well as a string of 10 consecutive World Cup and Norba podium finishes. Design features of the Sunday frame include: 8" travel dw-link rear suspension, 150 x 12mm hub spacing, 83mm BB, and 1.5" headtube with the e-thirteen zero-stack reducing headset. Geometry is tuned for use with the new breed of 8" travel DH race forks.
Looks like it works just fine.
Originally Posted by Expatriate
Cut your losses, sell the fork, and buy the proper size.
I really wanted to do that but I guess I'll just have to go with the redusers this time, plus you can't find Enigma Racing forks or parts here in the US no more (only in Japan).
Thanks all, I'll just update you guys on how this thing works out.
[snip] 1.5" headtube with the e-thirteen zero-stack reducing headset.
You must be a roadie. I happen to have a Cannondale Headshok frame that has something like a 1.5 headtube, with the Cane Creek reducing headset so I can run a 1 1/8" fork. Last I checked, there was still 4/8ths to .5 inches. In theory, reducing from 1.5 to 1.125 still allows a quarter inch of metal to work with in the wall of the reducer. Because that has to be spread around the circumference, while still allowing a tolerance for error, we'll call it an 1/8" thick around. That's still twice the thickness of a reducer to go from 1 1/8" to 1", which at best would be around 1/16th.
Does that make sense, or should I try again, and express it all in millimetres?