Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Berkeley california
Bikes: less than I use to,, more than I need
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the most commun probability is that you are suffering from a case of "Un-even" tension on your spokes, this scenario ussually becomes present when the rim is being deform by some kind of impact, dent, poor building quality or even a manufacturing deviance but that is pretty uncommun with the current double wall rim technology, anyway the typical cause of this fenomenon is that the wheel get hit or somehow deform and in the efford to keep it "some how straight"(temporary fix at best) one side of the spokes get overtight (the side that can bring the rim to center) in a efford to bring the rim back to center or to be concentric on the case of a up and down deviance, the side effect of this procedure is that some of the spokes are left with very little or no tension (since the rim is already bend their way) sadlly this is just the start of the demise of the wheel do to the uneven tension in the spokes (what keeps the wheel structurally sound) that will stress some of the spokes more than others and at the end start to cause failures and breakage of the spokes (at the Nipple base but mostlly at the contact point with the hub).
I build a few hundred wheels over the years and for sure I repair far more and I never found any kind of treadlock agent to be useful(Is always a compromise), well wheelsmith spoke-prep kind of have that effect, personally i have great results going the other way around and ussing antiseize compont a extremlly slick and long lasting copper base lubricant in form of a messy "Cream" this also offer some dielectric properties that make the spokes a lot less prone to seize i even run alumunim nipples on my offroad tandem & Downhill wheels with no failures (keep in mind I'm nobody special at this, I just build the wheels the way they are soppose too).
anyway when you are putting tension on a wheel you can measure spoke tension in two basic ways, ussing a "Tensionometer"(Dt's are best but they cost about $300 dollas) a tool that measure the deflexion of the spokes to calculate the tension or a much simpler sistem by ussing the "Torque" at the nipples to tell the tension on each of the spokes, this method becomes imposible to use or at least extremlly un-reliable the minute that you aply "random" treadlock or mecanical friction to SOME of the Nipples (all or nothing is the only way to do it), basically you want to keep all the Nipples in the EXACT same treatment so they can provide a baseline setting to measure the tension.
last I have many clients (most of them now also friends because they apreciate the work ettics ) with wheels i build 8/10 years ago that i still "warranty" (if the failure is not do to miss-use or abuse) even if is being a long time since i work on a bike shop, because the wheel was build with a proper method, "spokeprep" and with equal and proper tension, sadlly many of the machine build wheels of today and even some of does "hand Build" at the shops (and for sure at E-retailers) are pretty lamme and more than anything made in a hurry and worry about the today and not the years to come, sadlly the almost "lost art" of wheel building is going the way of the doddo on this fast pace profit driven market..
Uppss, sorry for the rant, do your self a favor find a truing stand or at least flip your bike upside down and use the brakes as a Gauge and check that the rim is on center (side to side and up and down) if all this is fine and the spoke tension is pretty even (use your finger to compress any two spokes and repeat the operation all over the circunference of the wheel) maybe you just have a "Funny" nipple and or spoke, go to the shop and get the EXACT SAME (brand,gauge,,,, Double single butted whatever you have to keep the rate of flexion even) and replace it.
sorry again if this is a little complicated even more with my poor ingles, but wheel building is not exactlly a easy task, for sure if you want it done is going to take time and efford, is not to many way to cut corners and still get long lasting results...
Also next time chose a wheel with "Eyelets"(I don't know if you have them or not on this rim) since they let the nipple "Float" more (much less surface friction with the rim) and they are less prone to get losee.
hope this helps
Last edited by ricardo kuhn; 09-21-05 at 08:21 AM.