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  1. #1
    Long Live Long Rides
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    Teflon coated or Not

    I'm getting ready to replace the shifter cables on my commuter. Anyone use teflon coated cables? Or teflon sleeved housing? In the past I've dipped my new cable in hot wax before installing. However, over the years, I've wondered if the teflon coated cables would stand up to the hazzards of winter and rain.

    Any ideas would be great. Thanks!
    Jharte
    Touring...therapy for the soul.

  2. #2
    Senior Member sydney's Avatar
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    Casing is plastic lined.That and a bit of light lube cuts thru alot of extra cost and hassle.

  3. #3
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    I recommend the Avid Flak Jacket cables and cable housing. You get cables, cable housing and cable sleeves which protect the exposed cables. I believe they are Teflon-coated but am not certain. I use this system on my mountain bike and it works very well. You end up with no exposed cables and so you don't have to worry too much about grit and dirt getting into the housing. I would imagine that the cable runs are not that different for commuter bikes from mountain bikes and that you should be okay using it for a commuter.

  4. #4
    Long Live Long Rides
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    Enduro Phreak, that looks like what I need. Actually my commuter IS an old mountain bike (Specialized Rockhopper Comp) converted. I'm hoping I can find one local tomorrow. It sucks to have to drive.
    Jharte
    Touring...therapy for the soul.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Nessism's Avatar
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    Many of the "coated" cables on the market use a cheap carbon steel inner wire that will start to rust as soon as the coating wears off. Better cables use stainless steel wire that will not rust no matter what. Better still are "slick" cables which have a machined surface to reduce friction.

    Shimano and Campy inject grease inside the cable casing to lube the cables. Why over think this whole lubrication issue? Just do what the pros do and be done with it.

    Ed
    Becareful buying/selling bike parts on-line. I learned the hard way. :(

    Good/Bad Trader Listing

  6. #6
    Senior Member sydney's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nessism
    Many of the "coated" cables on the market use a cheap carbon steel inner wire that will start to rust as soon as the coating wears off. Better cables use stainless steel wire that will not rust no matter what. Better still are "slick" cables which have a machined surface to reduce friction.

    Shimano and Campy inject grease inside the cable casing to lube the cables. Why over think this whole lubrication issue? Just do what the pros do and be done with it.

    Ed
    sydney got the 'heads up' from an eXpert here that stainless cable will corrode on the inside and swell up and hose shifting, and that is why 'coated' cable is beter.Suppose it's BW?

  7. #7
    Humble Member
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    Stainless Steel will "Corrode and Swell up" - from what, that highly concentrated hydrofluoric (or hydrochloric) acid you have a nasty habit of injecting into your cable housings before every ride????

    What is this one based on?

    Maybe I misinterpreted the "smiley face"....

    I agree with the "Shimano" design thoughts, quality stainless inner cables, properly greased and maintained, with lined housings [maybe Shimano's are not lined or only derraileur housings are can't remember]...
    Last edited by yotool; 10-03-05 at 03:01 PM.

  8. #8
    Sometimes knows stuff. rmfnla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nessism
    Why over think this whole lubrication issue? Just do what the pros do and be done with it.
    Yeah, just toss it to your team mechanic and let him/her worry about it.

    Today, I believe my jurisdiction ends here...

  9. #9
    Senior Member Nessism's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rmfnla
    Yeah, just toss it to your team mechanic and let him/her worry about it.

    Too many people agrue that: cables should not be lubed, use thin lube like tri-flow, use wax, ect. I say use what the designers intended, grease.
    Becareful buying/selling bike parts on-line. I learned the hard way. :(

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  10. #10
    TreadHead MtbVA's Avatar
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    I like Teflon cables, they feel smoother. The coating will wear off at contact points over time. I've only used the cheaper ones though.

    I just installed some avid flak jacket shifter cables (the cable are not coated), it's a sealed system thanks to the cable end caps with nipples, the cable housing is good, should last since it's a sealed system.

    I also just put on some power link brake cables; it has an outer tube with a lot of individual links with an inner shield that the cable feeds through from start to end. Can't really notice any improvement over normal cable housing, but it does look different.

    I think any good cable, expensive or not, work well as long as dirt is kept out. Cheap cable actually feels rougher due to cable material, thicker strands, &/or wind, the rougher it feels the more the friction in the cable housing.
    Cable housing can make a big difference, get a good cable housing.
    I don't like a cable housing with a spiral shield, it's hard to get a clean cut with cutters. I like housing with a wire shield, they seem the flex smoother.

  11. #11
    The Rabbi seely's Avatar
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    For a commuter, the ONLY way to go is full housing, front to back. Even if your stops don't allow it, I would still rig it up with zip ties or clip on cable guides. All the fancy cable systems out there don't mean a thing, they all wear out in about the same time.

    Some of the worst shifting performance I ever had in my life was on my Avid Flakjacket stuff. There is nothing special about it. Its just cable and endcaps like any other cable/housing package. I tore the stuff off my Stumpjumper after 3 months and went to bulk cable/housing and never had a problem since.
    commuter turned bike mechanic turned commuter (also a Velocity USA employee, but this is my personal account)

  12. #12
    Senior Member sydney's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nessism
    Too many people agrue that: cables should not be lubed, use thin lube like tri-flow, use wax, ect. I say use what the designers intended, grease.
    Well, there is lighter and heavier grease, and folks wonder why their shifters don't workee so good when it gets really cold.

  13. #13
    Senior Member sydney's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by seely
    For a commuter, the ONLY way to go is full housing, front to back. Even if your stops don't allow it, I would still rig it up with zip ties or clip on cable guides. All the fancy cable systems out there don't mean a thing, they all wear out in about the same time.

    Some of the worst shifting performance I ever had in my life was on my Avid Flakjacket stuff. There is nothing special about it. Its just cable and endcaps like any other cable/housing package. I tore the stuff off my Stumpjumper after 3 months and went to bulk cable/housing and never had a problem since.
    Always worked for old dim bulb sydney, but it isn't there a theory that if you pay more it's gotta be better?? Maybe it works better for muppets?

  14. #14
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    The trouble for me with teflon coated (and I used them long ago) was that they added a fair amount of "stretchiness" to the shifting making it less deterministic. The bare wire against a metal housing has a very crisp shifting behavior in comparison.

    This is the main benefit of steel on steel with lubricant.

  15. #15
    Senior Member sydney's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by antiquebiker
    The trouble for me with teflon coated (and I used them long ago) was that they added a fair amount of "stretchiness" to the shifting making it less deterministic. The bare wire against a metal housing has a very crisp shifting behavior in comparison.

    This is the main benefit of steel on steel with lubricant.
    Current casing is plastic lined.And pretty sure it has been since STI/Ergo came along. FWIW, any teflon cable coating would add nothing to 'stretchiness' of the cable anyway.

  16. #16
    Senior Member duckliondog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by antiquebiker
    The trouble for me with teflon coated (and I used them long ago) was that they added a fair amount of "stretchiness" to the shifting making it less deterministic. The bare wire against a metal housing has a very crisp shifting behavior in comparison.
    What's so great about shifting being deterministic? Do our gears not deserve to have free will?

    I haven't used teflon cables for shifting yet, but I do like them for brakes. I used bulk brake housing for my shifter cables when I last overhauled my mountain bike. It's steel on steel, like you said, and it does feel pretty snappy. I want Aztecs though, those look awesome.

  17. #17
    Senior Member sydney's Avatar
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    ^^^...Even the cheap bulk brake housing I buy is plastic lined. Bulk deralier housing cost the same so why use an infeior and incorrect product for shift casing?

  18. #18
    Senior Member duckliondog's Avatar
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    I used it becuase I had a six feet of it left over from doing my brakes. It works better than the nasty old housing was working.

  19. #19
    I drink your MILKSHAKE Raiyn's Avatar
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    I've been using teflon cables for both the brakes and shifters on my commuter for the last two years without incident or malfunction. I use bulk roll lined shifter housing and teflon lined brake housing in conjunction with the teflon coated cables.

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